Brand New Honda GX35 Won't even turn over?

[Fonzz]

Some pics:

I want to attach something much bigger to replace the blue bag that's currently attached to that rear rack. A utility box of sorts or perhaps a cooler in case my cargo needs to be kept cool that I could put some hinges and a latch on...
Open to suggestions!

 

[wayne z]

Good Idea!



A peanut tank, haven't heard that term but I think it indeed describes the stock tank that's attached to the bottom of the Honda GX35 I have.
I could do the hole thing... By small, how's about a 47/1000 drill? Too Small?
Would this be better than buying a new cap or basically the same but for free?
And is the vented cap the main reason/place that gas would leak if not kept upright? And if so, could I possibly get a spare cap that's not vented just to use for transportation? I know that's not doing it right, but I'm compelled to ask... I'm going to try putting the bike at about a 45 degree angle in the back of my truck that has a shell today.
Thanks again for all the input and sorry if I ask too many questions.

The peanut tank is the small metal tank that comes with the chinagirl kits.

Don't drill yet!
I think that your cap is supposed to be ventless, as that engine is designed to run in not always the upright position, and prolly has a vent built into the fuel system somewhere.
May just need the carb adjusted ? Have you tried it with the cap loose? If it still falters, try adding a little choke and see if it runs better or worse. Brtter means that it's starving for gas, (lean condition).

 

[GearNut]

I agree with wayne z. Don't go drilling any holes just yet, and also a mild carburetor tune may be in order. As for the cap, try out the previous suggestions first. I like the zip-loc bag with a pin hole and a rubber band one myself, I may use that idea in the future.
I think that is odd that the engine won't run better it being straight out of the box, but stranger things have happened in the past.
Good luck with it!

Edit: Where did you get those flash light holders? I have a couple of those exact flash lights and would like to mount them to my bike.

 

[Fonzz]

Hello GearNut and wayne z,
No holes drilled in the cap, and I have not tried the zip lock bag with the pinhole nor rode with the cap loosened because oddly, the bike seems to run fine now. It has not bogged let alone cut out and died for the last couple rides.

As far as a carb tune, maybe, just maybe, it could run a little better at wot. I'm not sure though that is does or not now really. This may also be me not knowing/having any experience to compare. I wouldn't know where or how to begin tuning the carb, didn't see any thing in the manual for that. Is it necessary to have a repair facility place do that? < probably not... I have my first "major" commute planned for today, 22 miles round trip, so I'll see how it performs today.

Anybody else running a friction drive can tell me if it's normal to hear a bit of noise right when letting off the throttle especially if not done quickly? Kind of sounds like I'm hearing the clutch and or the friction mount drum housing (correct term?) making a metallic rattling type sound.
I'm also just a little bit concerned about any damage I may have caused when I initially installed the mounting studs bottomed out against the flywheel preventing any movement of the motor whatsoever 'till I removed the motor, backed off the studs 1/8 to 3/16" and then it was okay? (I initially cinched them down pretty good) Could that possibly do anything to that area of the motor? Wondering if that may have anything to do with the noise I just described?

I obtained those flashlight holders from Amazon and I've been quite pleased with them for the price. Here is a link:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OADU22/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i01

Also used two of them attached to this for the lower ones:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FIAVN8/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01

Very pleased with that product as well.
While I'm at it, this little horn is quite a blast as well, I'm 100% satisfied.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ACAMJC/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00

Although when I received mine, it did not have the orange/red accents and the plastic tank was covered in a red pouch, didn't like that, so I removed it in favor of just the clear tank within. (That was long before I got the little red Honda motor, could of had a red accessory thing going on...)

 

[GearNut]

Congrats on the self repairing engine, may it stay that way forever!
Also thank you for the mount info!
As for the odd sounds that your drive is making, I cannot comment as I do not have a friction drive.

 

[Ibedayank]

Fonzz yes that is normal as the roller and clutch bell are still spinning Mine does it to

 

[Fonzz]

Fonzz yes that is normal as the roller and clutch bell are still spinning Mine does it to

Thanks Ibedayank,
Now that I think about it, the sound reminds me of a little 4 stroke minibike with an automatic transmission.

 

[BustedKnuckles]

Have a 25cc 4 stroke in a Stanton friction, from what I have read the smaller one goes with engines on this type of install, the greater chance they'll experience WOT issues. The reason being is the load condition is greater and the smaller engine is less likely to experience the rpm level it was designed for at WOT. I suspect one can fidget with carb peaking and still end up with a compromise that won't be much better than the original issue of bogging down at sustained WOT.

I am interested in knowing more about the running hot issues you mentioned earlier. My 25cc propane fueled Lehr was very hot at low load (tire elevated) and various throttle ranges for the few minutes it's been ran. I too had those funny almost plastic smells and at this point have not proceeded further in running it until I am sure this is acceptable.

The clutch bell housing is less than perfectly round and what we hear are the shoes clanging against the low spots of the bell housing surface as they release. Some might say it's the high spots; guess it's all a matter of perception.

 

[Fonzz]

Hi BustedKnuckles,

That's an interesting concept that I have not heard about before, I'll keep it in mind.

I only experienced the strange smell after my first ride, a short one. The next time out there was no issues including the smell, I actually forgot about that smell until you mentioned it again here, so I'm chalking it up to being new. If the engine you have is new as well, that may be what's causing strange smells and if so, should burn off and go away. As far as the heat, yeah I thought maybe it was too hot only because I could not hold my hand on the plastic cover for more than a couple seconds, but I really had no idea for sure and nothing to compare it too so I don't know if it was overheated.

Thank you for explaining the noise I was hearing in detail, it makes sense.
I now have some extra noise upon letting off at wot and I believe it is the fact that my 1&1/4" rollers one way bearings have locked up and it's now behaving like the 1" roller that does not have the same feature. I'm going to have to call Duane and see what he has to say about that...

 

[honda35cc]

Fonz, did Yo get the Hona 35cc running correctly? Asking cause just completed the GEBE Kit on My Mongoose Bike..Same Little Honda GX35, ran out great then started cobbling up, sprayed WD40 around carb in case of air leaks, none , then took belt off motor and it ran great..Rode and then would start again, then took park arrestor metal wadding out just in case of obstruction and made my on deflector cause original has the screen and that gave it a little Gusty sound but cobbling came back...Now realize it is 109 here but these little engines don't get the air we give them on a bike so not wanting to think heat related...Fello did show me to run choke 1/4 way shut, leaving 3/4 open which allows more fuel which says would help cool engine...left his house for country ride and ran Awesome...will rie now and see if stays good or not) What did You find out on Your Honda?

I rode first day on country roads 10 miles to lake then back on blacktop and didn't realize how great it was running until started cobbling up!

Aamzes Me to add 16oz after ride to lake) Enjoy filling up with 91% Octane Gas and paying .60 cents Too Fun

Thanks for Great Forum and Please anybody with Information let Me know as trying to Learn about the Honda GX35, also the GEBE Kit is Great and allows Excercise when pedaling away on start or up hill

 

[Fonzz]

I only had 2 minor issues with the Honda when I first started my project. First, I could not turn the motor over at all because the mounted studs were screwed all the way in, against the flywheel preventing it from spinning at all. Backed off the studs and it started right up.
Then, on the first ride, it sputtered a few times (that's the short version), but the next time I tried it and every other time since then (about 450 miles logged so far) it has run without problems. I have no idea what is causing your issues, sorry, but I'm new to this too...

My experience and all the advice I got is detailed in the prior posts in this thread.

 

[honda35cc]

Thanks) It seems the 110 degree heat is the culprit here in Ks! Amazing difference about 8:00pm in the evening, it runs awesome, then next day the heat is allowing the fuel to act like it is vapor locked!

Got new plug on way just in case, and will buy some Mystery Oil to add to the Fuel as guys are saying this will allow the Valves to be cooled by the Mystery Oil and Hopefully will see the difference in this Blast Furnance We are Living in

Got 110 miles on it in 5hrs time and probably $2.00 gas so is a Pile of Fun and that is the High Octane fuel Too Fun

I will go ahead get a fuel filter as that little puppy has cotton on the end and wont take much to effect it

Thanks for the help and have a Great Daya

 

[irishjedikev]

Hey folks....new user here. I have a gx35 with serious bogging and WOT issues as well. Did this get resolved over time or? I'm about to buy a new carb and ignition coil, but don't want to if i don't have to. Thanks!!!

 

[GearNut]

Is your GX35 brand new? If not, the bogging and WOT issues may be caused by a sticky fuel regulating valve causing too much fuel in the fuel circuits. No new carb needed, just clean the one you have.

 

[irishjedikev]

Thanks for responding! The motor I have is brand new. I took the carb apart and cleaned anyway. Problem still there. I ordered a new ignition coil to see if that fixes it. Will post results.

 

[GearNut]

Does your carb have fuel adjusting screws on the side of it? It may need a tune up to run properly in your neck-o-the woods.

 

[irishjedikev]

i tried replacing the coil and that didn't fix it. The carb has no adjusting screws that i could find with the exception of the throttle stop.

 

[Otero]

Glad you got it sorted out,Fonz. The GX35 is a very reliable engine.
I got mine from S.E.W., So far I've only had To replace the clutch shoes
at a 1000 mile. Probably could have gotten more, but I'm big and have done
a lot of stop & go. FYI, the best price I've seen for one is on Equipatron,
$239 free shpg.

I love my GX35, but I love my tanaka PF4000 more.

 

[Otero]

Irish, I have the same issue at wot on the GX35. I know there's no
adjusting screw on that carb. Gearnut is probably right but I'd hesitate
to tear the carb down. Like the GX50, I suspect the 35 has a built in
governor the stops it at 7000 rpm. Either that or, more likely it simply
floods out(for some mysterious reason) at wot. It performs well up to
7000; Does anyone have a definitive solution for this problem?

 

[irishjedikev]

Thanks Otero. My sputtering happens almost at any rpm, but worse the higher i go. Seems like it should run better and I wouldn't really call these reliable if they die for no reason....sorry, just frustrated. Starting to think I should have just got the suabaru version....I just always thought that Honda was the best. Yeah, if anybody out there has come across this and has suggestions, I'd sure appreciate it.