Bought a 4 stroke kit from BikeBerry

D

dgm099

New Member
and their delivery was quite fast. Received it in 4 days. I haven't had a large block of time to actually sit down and put everything together yet...but today was supposed to be the 'engine mounting plate' install. Boy oh boy...here's the pics...
oh1j6g.jpg

14ma0ya.jpg

30ufn2f.jpg


See the gap between the stay/tubing and the mounting plate in the first two photos. The third one is just of the mounting plate sitting where it was going to be mounted.

So what do I do about that gap? The bike is a Huffy Cranbrook. Don't think I can eat away enough metal from the mount so the ends sit flush against the stay/tube as the metal ain't thick enough for that kinda fix. I've read about folks using soda cans as shims, but unless someone wants to tell me how to progressively make them smaller so they fit properly.....Any other suggestions?

I wanted to build my first bike from a kit, and not have to go out of those boundaries if I could help it. Unless I can come up with a different way, the only other real idea I have is to weld a piece of angle iron on each side of the stay/tubing and use that as the building block for the engine to mount to.

Looking for other alternatives.

Thanks folks
 
You might consider cutting some strips from an old inner tube. Maybe use contact glue to adhere rubber to motor mount, so it stays in place?
 
clean up those nasty welds with a file and use PVC in there (making a bit of groove in PVC will help it stay in place0
 
@Slogger
At first all I could imagine was what would happen during vibration, then I read the pdf. Sounds like it could be an option, thank you.

@ragdolldude
Thought about it, but I have to fill that gap. Using inner tube...or any sheet rubber would be just as much fun as using coke cans. BTW, don't they say we should not use rubber between pieces as it promotes damage due to vibration? Thanks for the idea.

@crassius
PVC....I'm familiar with working PVC. Made bows, slingbows, bike racks, plant holders and a slew of other things. I think, that since I am familiar with PVC, I will attempt this way first. We are expecting our first storm to get here tomorrow late afternoon and go for 3-4 days. Means I can work in the garage without too much interruption.

Yeah, aren't those welds something else? lol.

Thanks folks for the input, I'll let ya know how it goes and see about posting a pic or two of the process so others might benefit.

Mac
 
Update: just checked email and Bikeberry support sez "Your safest bet would be to use rubber gaskets to fill that gap." Soooo, is it ok to use rubber?
 
for a 2-stroke it's a no-no - 4-strokes don't vibrate as much, so I'm not sure how well rubber will stand up (I suppose it depends a lot on what kind of rubber too)
 
Assuming that mount plate is steel, and that the welds look solid, I'd examine it very carefully to see if some kind of forming is possible. Like maybe bending the lower part of that grooved flange outward to better contact the seat post. You may need to heat it to keep it malleable while you work it. And I'd work it over a seat post clamped in a vice to maintain proper shape.
But if it doesn't look like the plate would hold up, I'd use some kind of filler. Epoxy resin could work. Shims may work. I've always been iffy about rubber, but this is a four stroke so who knows. I've heard it done where one guy wrapped a post and mounting bracket all around with aluminum tape, sealing from the bottom up and leaving the top open. Then he dumped melted lead in a gap he was trying to fill. It cooled and set just fine, but I never got to find out how it worked over the long haul. I imagine it was fine though.
 
Update: 10/22
Sorry for the delay, got a cold that's kicking my butt and haven't been able to do more than 5 minutes of work without sweating so much I can't even see, lol.

Well, after playing with numerous solutions, I have come to the conclusion that the provided mount ain't gonna cut it. So, this is gonna be my solution. Two pieces of angle, cut to the proper size, and come monday or tuesday, I'll weld them in place. I'll drill the mount holes directly into the angle.

Take a look and suggestions, and comments are always welcome.

mmx5ib.jpg


a11hkn.jpg
 
Dude! You know, I think I like that better than the mount plate! Does it feel like it might be a lighter-weight solution too? Heck, if you round the corners a bit, and cut the front at an angle to match the flow of the downtube, that would look even better than the mounting plate I think.
If you were to ask me, I'd say take that idea and run with it.
 
If your going to weld and think about spreading out stresses on the frame, maybe add some support from below the engine mounting plates in the middle to the frame below.

I have for my Briggs 4 stroke have done that. I also forward of the engine added metal plates as gussets connecting all three tube together on left and right side. But I am off road riding in the woods so it gets more stress.

I looked at the welcome for you and so I know you are mechanically inclined. Just saying anyway if you do weld near the pedal crank, it has to be removed of everything and cleaned of grease and paint. For my bike, it actually became void of pedals but is legal as a light weight off road motorcycle by CA DMV.

Those pieces of angle iron should have enough enough width of metal that the engine mount holes/slots can align the engine chain to drive sprocket on rear wheel. But again welding extra metal is easy, removing it is hours of grinding. Ask me how I know...hahaha!
 
Welding the angle iron on is a great idea. I have contemplated that for my Honda gx200 bike. I used a couple muffler clamps and the base plate (hacked and modified) that the engine came from (off a pressure washer). It looks awful, but works. But I keep having twisting issues after a few hundred miles because the nuts like to back off. Weld it on, do a good job, and it will last you way longer.

Or you could cut the little plate and re weld it at a different angle. I like your idea better though.
 
Thanks folks, appreciate the positive feed back on the idea. Now to put it into action. My welder is supposed to be returned to me on tuesday, so I'm hoping for tuesday or wednesday welding.

When welded I will show ya a pic or two.
 
dgm099,
Keep us up to date on your engine mount. The BB/Huffy build I did this last Spring is not up to my standards.
My current Sportsman Flyer 80 build is a engine mount system without compromise.
I am liking your approach of a Huffy engine mount. The BB engine mount in my kit did not have a bolt pattern that matched the HuaSheng bolt pattern.
 
Howdy folks,
Sorry for the delay....my 35 yr old son was in a car accident 2 weeks ago....broke the tibia and fibia just above the left ankle in multiple places, as well as a bunch of ribs. Combine that with the infection that set in and 4 operations so far (due for another tomorrow) and things have been a bit outta hand lately. All mine and my wifes free time has been spent at the hospital, preparing for him to come stay with us for 6 to 18 months or trying to catchup on sleep. He is OK and doctors think he'll be coming home wednesday or thursday.

2hsb3v9.jpg


I did get my welder back (yahooo) and tomorrow (tuesday the 8th) I plan on tacking the iron in place to verify everything will fit properly. I've already prepped the surfaces.

Once tacked in place, I'll snap a pic or two, and add them here. Do ya think I should start a new thread in one of the build sub-forums? If I do, I'll add some pics to start the thread and add a link to the thread here. What ya think?

Mac
 
Ouch!!!!!

I'm in the same spot as you right now. I got to mount a 212. Was thinking of getting a mount but after seeing your issue I think I'm going to do the angle iron. Guess I'll have to call my steel supplier tomorrow cause 3/16 2 inch is the smallest i got right now. Thanks for showing me the mount i was looking at in action. I was thinking 1/8 flat stock as well. Will need to roll over the edge of that for some more structure.

Now what size angle is that? Be careful not to burn thru welding that to the frame. Thats my worry. Not penetrating the angle or burning the post. I've welded tons of mismatched gauges but the bike tubes are really thin. I'll be lurking in your thread if you don't mind.
 
Last edited:
I'm not much of a welder, but at least I can say I've done this type of stuff before...

987rie.jpg


That was my third or fourth recumbent I built and the only picture I can find of any of them.

Keep reminding me of what to watch for and be careful about, it's been awhile since I've had the welder in my hands.

If you're asking me what size my angle is, it's 1/8 by 1 1/4. Should be plenty for this light weight engine.
 
Last edited:
I thought about brazing the supports on. I know brazing works well, but if I remember correctly, not for this type of butt joint. I'm I correct?
 
I was thinking 1/8 angle myself. You know you could drill thru and bolt it.

Want another welding reminder. Weld longer at the thick piece and go quick at the thin. You could do it like your welding body panels on a car. Weld a spot at a time , allowing time for the metal to cool abit. Might help you not burn thru.
 
I had the same idea when I started looking at that mounting plate that comes in the kit. I welded 1 1/2 angle on and am really please with the way it looks. the front tube on the huffy is bigger in diameter than the seat post tube so I notched the angle iron so the two pieces would run parallel to each other. Also angled all the ends so it looks like it suppose to be on there. Before I welded the pieces on, I slotted the angle iron for the mounting screws. I wanted to be able to adjust the engine forward at back so I could have a little bit of adjustment for the chain. While I had the welder out I went ahead and welded on tabs to mount the fuel tank to. You can check out my PICs in a thread I posted a little while ago. Hope I posted the link correctly.

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=62122
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top