Board Track Racer / Vintage Wheel and Tire Considerations

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wret

Active Member
Feb 24, 2014
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I realize there are several threads on this subject already but I thought if I share a little of my hindsight, it may help out an inexperienced builder or two. I would invite any with additional or different experiences to contribute them.

This is a motorized bicycle building forum and the source for many ideas and build plans, as it was for me. Accordingly many components will derived from bicycles. But for anyone planning to go faster than 30 mph and/or with an engine larger than the legal motorized bicycle limitation (i.e., 49cc), you might want to put some serious thought into wheels and tires before you begin your project. There are two or three reasons that this is important. Obviously, you want to be sure that the wheel components you select are robust enough to handle the additional stresses you will be putting on them related to the speed and weight. You also want to be able to brake effectively. Moped or Worksman/Husky drum hubs with heavy duty spokes and rims seem up to the task but are they really? It’s easy enough to decelerate for a stop sign but what about a panic stop from 40+ mph or more?

The other major component of the wheel assembly is the tire. While there are numerous retro bicycle tire options for 26 inch bicycle wheels, I have found only two tire options intended for motorized use: Coker and Continental KKS (The latter is a moped tire rated for 30 mph). They are actually 22” motorcycle tires. The Cokers are extremely expensive, maybe out of reach for the casual replica builder, and the KKS’s are hard to come by.

Another consideration is state safety inspection. If you plan to register your bike as a motorcycle, safety inspections are inevitable in most states. I’m sure the level of scrutiny varies from state to state and site to site but a standard item on their checklist is likely to be DOT rating for many components, including tires. I’ve heard in MD one can fail for turn signal lenses that don’t have “DOT” on them. Coker tires have a DOT rating but the KKS tires have the “European equivalent” which may or may not pass.

With all of these considerations in mind, I believe the next step for me will be 21 inch motorcycle rims and tires. “21” sounds really small but the outer tire diameter is actually very close to that of 26” bike tires. Narrow 21 inch drum-brake wheels were common on dirt bikes from the 70’s and 80’s. Serviceable front wheel assemblies can be found on ebay for less than a new heavy duty bicycle wheel. I much prefer the look ones with symmetrical spoke anchors. I’ll be getting a little further away from the vintage look I was shooting for but in the interest of safety and legality I think I can deal with it.

The narrowest motorcycle tire available (size 2.75-21 or 70/100-21) is a bit wider than the balloon style cruiser tires commonly used so clearance may be an issue. Oh well, I had in mind to build my own springer fork over the winter.
 
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Ludwig II

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Jul 17, 2012
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For non road use, I'd suggest looking at the 23" front wheel of a speedway bike. Honda also had an aberration in the 80s with an XL with a 23" wheel, if you can find one, and the rubber to fit it.
 
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wret

Active Member
Feb 24, 2014
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Thanks for that info guys. I was not aware of the 23 inch Honda wheel. Unfortunately both the width and the height place it outside the tolerances of my current frame but maybe the next one.

A little googling shows two tire options available for the Honda wheel: Bridgestone TW9 and Cheng Shin C183D, both aggressive off-road tires. This brings to mind another question. Has anyone shaved a knobby tire to make it more street friendly?
 
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sportscarpat

Bonneville Bomber the Salt Flat record breaker
Jun 25, 2009
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Like a lot of us on the forum I have messed around with plenty of different tire and wheel combos. For the smaller engines a good set of heavy duty bicycle wheels, like Worksman, are a good choice. A quality set of tires like the Bontrager Hank or Maxxis Hookworm with a downhill MTB tube are sufficient. As engine size and speeds increase the next set up would be the 21" motorcycle rims. Any GX200 type build can be too much for the cheaper cruiser tires out there. As you start adding horse power then the best choice becomes the motorcycle tire and wheel.

Here is a picture of some 21 x 1.6 motorcycle rims with Pirelli H rated tires and moped hubs.

Bonneville Flyer by Sportsman Flyer, on Flickr
 
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wret

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Feb 24, 2014
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In case anyone is interested, a Suzuki RL250 front hub from the 70's is very close to the same spoke hole diameter as an AV88 hub. This means you can pick up a complete wheel at yard sale prices and use the rim and spokes to put together a rear wheel. The spoke hole diameter of the AV88 is about 142mm and the RL250 is about 138mm.




Here's a 21 motorcycle wheel with 2.75-21 tire next to a 26 inch mountain bike wheel.

 

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wret

Active Member
Feb 24, 2014
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Rear Wheel Hub Options

I'm curious what types of rear hubs have been used. I started out with a Puch hub and switched to a Motobecane AV88 hub which has the advantages of larger braking surface and spoke diameter that matches available 21" MC wheels. However, the AV88 hub uses a tiny 10mm axle.

I've been eyeing the front hub I took off in order to lace up the AV88 hub and wondering why not use a motorcycle front hub at the rear with a sprocket bolted on to it? It would need a spacer to get the sprocket out far enough but has the advantage of being fairly narrow and has a robust axle diameter.

What other rear hub options have you guys tried?

RL250 front hub:
 
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DareDevil

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Hi wret I have used 21" motor cycle rims on my project...this mainly was for safety.. would be taking your life in your hands riding at more than 30 mph especialy when its motor powered and extra weight and stress on the cycle frame...My rims are 21" alloy and are 1 1/2" wide.. the hubs are Honda form a 125...a lot of dirt bikes have 21" rims and there are a couple of models that have front 23" rims but hard to find and the tires are even harder to find...Had to narrow the rear hub 1 1/4" where the chain sprocket bolts on to fit the frame design ..the tires are from a Harley Davidson D402 hope this helps you with your project DD
 

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wret

Active Member
Feb 24, 2014
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Maryland
Thanks for chiming in DareDevil. I've come to the same conclusions about durability and safety when designing a machine that will see average speeds above 30 mph.

Can you elaborate on your rear hub setup? I had discarded the idea for using a dirt bike rear hub thinking that they would be too wide.
 
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DareDevil

Member
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Hi wret If you have a look at my build ie; Excelsior V twin build......have a look at page 5 there is detail on width and photos of machining also posts #106-205-218-219-236-237-238-239-264-270-275-276-339-394......these might with your decisions DD
 

BSAmase

Member
Sep 27, 2018
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Im curious guys im going to use straight motorbike rims and tyres for my later builds to build a replica most say honda or puch rims can we get somenames of the motorbikes i.e honda xl 125 etc and a rough year to give me somthing more specific to look out for please
 

Ludwig II

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Jul 17, 2012
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I'd be inclined to hunt around classic trials sites for skinny 21" wheels. There are plenty of road oriented tyres these days, or you can get an old fashioned look just by sticking with the block tread trials rubber.
 

BSAmase

Member
Sep 27, 2018
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I'd be inclined to hunt around classic trials sites for skinny 21" wheels. There are plenty of road oriented tyres these days, or you can get an old fashioned look just by sticking with the block tread trials rubber.
Ok thankyou
 

BSAmase

Member
Sep 27, 2018
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Ive seen these 23" 2.25 rims and tyres of this zundap I am considering viewing to buy looking at comments above would suggest these could make it onto a board track build? Photos are hard to judge they look slightly to small for an upcoming 125 build
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