BlowByU Full Belt Drive Felt Magno Build

scotto- said:
If you ran the stock can instead of your new exhaust, you would be as quiet as an electric darn near.....rotfl Now git back to work Terry.....we want to see this Felt finished.....you ever watch Overhauled ? The clock is ticking and we're all waitin on ya.....put er in gear and drop the clutchbrnot

Cheers!
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Hey scotto
Well the only thing that will hold me back is cash it is going to be tight but I think I have it covered
 
OH I just remembered that I was thinking of running a strait pipe no muffler but if it is too loud I will add one
 
Hi all
Well here is the latest for the Magno

springer.jpg OK this is what I REALLY wanted this Monark BUT it is 1 inch and threaded the Magno uses 1 1/8 thread-less plus there is no way to do a fender on a Monark so this is out as the Magno's appeal is the cool fenders

IMG_0851_25994739_std.jpg My second choice was this Cool Black springer it can use the fenders BUT it is 1 inch thread and that would mean doing a conversion so that is out because I really like the threaded-less on the Magno because it is clean looking and modern compared to the threaded.

SANY0268.jpg So this was the only choice it is 1 1/8 and it is thread-less it has provisions for a fender. It does not have the mounts for V brakes so it is extra clean looking it also has adjustable ride ie soft or hard plus it has provisions for disc brakes if the buyer wants to upgrade. The end result will look more like a Whizzer OH and it is black so no painting is required there are a few decals but they can be easily removed.

SANY0269.jpg This picture show the NO mounts for V brakes clean looking

SANY0270.jpg

Well the fact that I can't have a Monark is disapointing but I think the shock is a much better fit and the price well it was 75 bucks after tax so that was another plus.
Cheers
Terry
 
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Cant wait to watch this one,, I really like the lines of the fender braces, how strong do they seem? Felt also has another springer available..the Abraham Linkage. That is kind of crappy about the amount of fuel in the top tube. Looking forward to see what You do with it.
Cheers
 
chainmaker said:
Cant wait to watch this one,, I really like the lines of the fender braces, how strong do they seem? Felt also has another springer available..the Abraham Linkage. That is kind of crappy about the amount of fuel in the top tube. Looking forward to see what You do with it.
Cheers
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Thank you chainmaker
This should be a fairly cool looking bike it is defiantly going to be different I know one thing for sure this bike is going to stop really well with the 90mm front drum and 70mm rear drum. They are both from Sturmy Archer and they both have sealed bearings, so I think this is going to be one of the safest and smoothest riding bikes I have done yet. I really can't wait for it to be done too.
Cheers
Terry
 
You can do a fender on the Monark. I have a origional apart in my shop and the fender bolts to the top of the main fork and the braces fit on the longer sholder bolts on the main fork,so it stays fixed to it. The origional has 7/16 sholder bolts that are longer in the rear and lock againest the main fork to hold the braces....Hope that helps.....
looking forward to see the completed bike love the belt drives..........Curt

Ps I don't know why you can't put a 11/8" tube on over the 1" one couple of spacer rings Braze or sweet solder?
 
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Hi curtisfox, Venice Motor Bikes, buzbikebklyn1
Thank you guys for your input I wish I had known that before I got the front shock. I did know that I could adapt from 1 1/8 to 1 inch and I also knew that I would be-able to get the fender to mount at the top but I did not know the fender braces would work on the Monarks pivoting lower bracket. Oh well next time. The rear sheave is a whizzer sheave they are stainless steel and rather expensive because of that.
Cheers
Terry
 
Sure, you can press the 1 1/8th" steerer tube out of the fork and replace it with a 1" steerer with an 1/8" bushing.
Just be sure to set up the hydraulic press correctly for the job or you might crack the forks crown.
I remove the lower work surface off the press, and use a long piece of 1 1/2" pipe under the crown to the floor and position the steerer directly under the ram, then GENTLY press it out do not rush this operation! Or you will end up with a broken fork.
If done correctly you can even use the old steerer over again.
good luck
BBB
 
buzbikebklyn1 said:
Sure, you can press the 1 1/8th" steerer tube out of the fork and replace it with a 1" steerer with an 1/8" bushing.
Just be sure to set up the hydraulic press correctly for the job or you might crack the forks crown.
I remove the lower work surface off the press, and use a long piece of 1 1/2" pipe under the crown to the floor and position the steerer directly under the ram, then GENTLY press it out do not rush this operation! Or you will end up with a broken fork.
If done correctly you can even use the old steerer over again.
good luck
BBB
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Well thank you very much for your input I do have a press it is just a small press no where near big enough to press the pipe on and I already have the front fork so maybe next time.
OK Everyone I have some new pictures so here they are

SANY0274.jpg This picture is of the Magno's Thread-less head set of which is convertible but not easily

SANY0276.jpg I love the clean look of thread-less

SANY0277.jpg The stainless sheave and hardware are now in here are a few picks

SANY0279.jpg

SANY0280.jpg
 
SANY0281.jpg Spacers

SANY0283.jpg Hardware or nuts bolts and washers

Now the Sturmey Archer front and rear drums shipped today so should have them early next week. I am also expecting the output sheaves to come in in the next day or so and when they do the output shaft will go to the machinist once that is done I will update this thread.
Cheers
Terry
 
Hi Terry,

Very big odds you won't need the expensive spacers to mount the sheeve. The spacers are for the Whizzer 24" wheel with the 5" rear brake. The 5" rear brakes were used on the Whizzer 24" Pacemaker and the 24" Ambassador. The 20" Sportsman also used the 5" brake, however the belt sheeve was attached directly to the rim [not the spokes].

Several EZM dealers have made rear belt drive systems and worked very well [Miles, Helmutt, Ray, myself, and several others], and in fact the original "silent power" only required a simple pulley change to convert to rear belt drive.

Only downside to belt drive is the unlimited possibilites of belt length due to frame, motor location, and drive system choices.

Good luck on the project, and I can tell you it is worth the effort as 98% of my motorbike collection is total belt drive.

Have fun,
 
Quenton Guenther said:
Hi Terry,

Very big odds you won't need the expensive spacers to mount the sheave. The spacers are for the Whizzer 24" wheel with the 5" rear brake. The 5" rear brakes were used on the Whizzer 24" Pacemaker and the 24" Ambassador. The 20" Sportsman also used the 5" brake, however the belt sheave was attached directly to the rim [not the spokes].

Several EZM dealers have made rear belt drive systems and worked very well [Miles, Helmutt, Ray, myself, and several others], and in fact the original "silent power" only required a simple pulley change to convert to rear belt drive.

Only downside to belt drive is the unlimited possibilities of belt length due to frame, motor location, and drive system choices.

Good luck on the project, and I can tell you it is worth the effort as 98% of my motorbike collection is total belt drive.

Have fun,
Click to expand...

Thank you Quenton
I was not going to use them but the guy that sold these to me told me I would need them. Can you tell me or even better show a picture of how these are assembled, as in does the screw go through the sheave then a washer over the spoke and then the nut or is it the other way round
 
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Well I was sitting here thinking what have I got and what more do I need so I was digging around and here is what I found

SANY0291.jpg

SANY0290.jpg Three piece wide crank

SANY0289.jpg

SANY0288.jpg

SANY0287.jpg I love these motor mounts and I will explain why in the next picture
 

SANY0286.jpg This engine mount is easy to weld two braces in the middle and once you do that it makes a really nice sliding motor mount. Once that is done there is no need for an idler or will make it easy to keep the belt tight

SANY0285.jpg

SANY0284.jpg

SANY0293.jpg The engine will get a nice black base coat and clear coat will look well really shiny

SANY0294.jpg This time I am going to paint the entire engine black except the carb
 
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SANY0295.jpg Will be using this older 5:1 ratio 4G trans

SANY0296.jpg The great thing about the 5:1 ratio 4G is that it can easily be turned in to a belt drive

SANY0297.jpg This 4G trans is also going to be painted black

SANY0298.jpg This is a 2 inch sheave but it is 5/8 I will not be using this one I have 5 - 2" x 1/2 inch ordered

SANY0301.jpg Where the pen is pointing is where the shaft will be turned down to 1/2 inch and the a small piece of pipe will go from the bolt threads to the sheave
 
Well after taking stock looks like all I will need is Throttle & Kill Switch, Old school brake levers, Seals for bottom bracket, Cables. 5 speed free wheel, Derailer, shifter, Fuel Tank Keg style with lay-back seat-post, If I can think of more I will add to the list
Cheers
Terry
 
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