Bike won't start

BenchDweller

New Member
Having a new issue with a bikeberry 66/80 I been running since January.

Motor has ran good until today. When I was out and about during start up the revs stayed a little high at idle until the bike warmed up. After a quick warm up and and shut down I tried to start the motor again. This time.no matter what the bike will only give a put, put, blech, put, put blech at wide open as long as I keep peddling. It won't stay running. Almost like there is bad spark but I checked for spark and am.getting it. The thing is flooding right out and I cleaned and dried the plug twice. Any idead? Please don't tell me the cylinder is blown already. I looked with a bore snake cam and the walls seem good.
 
That's what thought immediately but the motor is getting gas. I just thought I'd ask to.see who comes up with things to think about.

If its fuel the only thing I can think of is the crankcase is going to have a pool in it when I tare into it this afternoon. The motor is just getting past the break in and this happens.
 
Check your pipe, make sure it's not gunked up with oil and that air will flow through it. 16:1 is too much, I use 24:1 for break in and 32:1 after
 
Check your pipe, make sure it's not gunked up with oil and that air will flow through it. 16:1 is too much, I use 24:1 for break in and 32:1 after
got her all apart
Pipe isn't bad at all. Piston full of carbon and the piston backwards. Rings look good though.
Crank was soaking wet with gas nix though . When I took mine apart the first time I must have had one too many and glossed the piston over.
Rebuilt the carb after a chem dip. I am leaning towards the float got stuck open and was pouring gas into the crankcase and flooded her beyond all get out.



"If a spare part is cheap, it is because it sells often and you should always have two on hand"
 
On the backwards piston there are reports of them being marked wrong. The important thing is the ring gaps have to be on the intake wall of the cylinder.

If the gaps run up and down in the exhaust port they can snag and break things.
 
On the backwards piston there are reports of them being marked wrong. The important thing is the ring gaps have to be on the intake wall of the cylinder.

If the gaps run up and down in the exhaust port they can snag and break things.


I know, just mentioning it. Luckily they didn't snag before I realized it
 
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If you have spark & the plug keeps getting fouled... here are the things I would check for...

Is the choke lever all the way down?

Are you running 32:1 (or 40:1) gas/oil mix?

Is the float in the carb stuck?

Did the main jet come loose inside the carb?

This last one is kind of rare, but I've seen where the CDI went bad & the plug still had a spark (like the timing of the CDI went off)?
 
If you have spark & the plug keeps getting fouled... here are the things I would check for...

Is the choke lever all the way down?

Are you running 32:1 (or 40:1) gas/oil mix?

Is the float in the carb stuck?

Did the main jet come loose inside the carb?

This last one is kind of rare, but I've seen where the CDI went bad & the plug still had a spark (like the timing of the CDI went off)?
after a tare down and repair I get it to.start but low.power and only stays firing at certain throttle.positions. I am almost convinced its an ignition timing issue.
 
It starts and runs now. Starts quick.it just doesn't seem to warm up and when it finally does it just farts right out. Going to get new spark plug see if that does anything.
 
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