The screw only keeps the gear in place, you have a key way to keep the gear from turning just like the mag side. The clutch big gear and the chain sprocket have keys as well.
Bike starts up as if it ant to start!
- Thread starter T james
- Start date
Thanks guys. I got her running. Just bogs like ****. Trying to get it to start accelerating. Had to tighten flower wheel quite a few times, but who cares. I'm going to change jet from 68 to 66. Since so much bogging and spark plug was black. And spark plug gap from 25 to 30. But 1 step at a time. So if it stops again. I can reverse what I've done. Thanks guys!!
Ok, so I've made NGK B5HS spark plug gap smaller than .20 of an inch. Because .20 gap bogg like **** starting up. And I had to pedal a lot to get it to start reacting to throttle like it should. So I also tried .25 gap. Which only made matters worse. Main jet is 68. C-clip set to notch before richest mixture. Cylinder has been ported by hand. My problem now is. It starts up no problem and boggs a little before catching to start accelerating. But it seems my top end (about 20 mph) goes no further than 3/4 throttle. As in after I pull in 3/4 a throttle rpm seems to increase anymore. Even with throttle wide open. So I'm just trying to figure out what needs to be adjusted to obtain performance I had with stock everything (27 mph bone rattling tho lol minus the intense vibration). Idk what size jet was stock but it seemed to work better than the 66 and 68 I've tried. Just open to any suggestions and diagnostics. Will post video of me riding it for better explaination tomorrow.
If it bogs at full throttle you probably need a smaller jet. Raising or lowering the needle clip controls the mixture from idle to 3/4 throttle. So try a jet with a smaller orifice not number till you start getting more top end. Be careful to check the plug color to keep from getting it too lean, the porcelain should be light to medium brown. After you get the jet right move the needle up or down till it runs right, a 71 is what most stock jets are.
It doesn't bogg at full throttle. Bogs a little starting up and takes a little pedaling to get it to start accelerating. The problem is it just seems to stop accelerating after 1/2 throttle. Like 1/2 throttle sounds just like it does at full throttle. I have a 68 jet in now. The biggest that came with jet kit I have is 70. So I'll put stock back in there. Because it had good bottom end and top end with stock everything. Only difference now is I've ported it.
Ok, I topped at at 30mph once. When I put in B8HS n c-clip to a notch before leanest mixture. Instead of B5HS n c-clip @ a notch before richest mixture. Which was bogging out like **** when I start motor and accelerate. So its much better can hear difference in each 1/4 of throttle. But I'll attempt to get back up to 30mph. But Im still at break in. So maybe I'll wait til 1 more gallon of breakin mixture 16:1. Before attempting anymore adjustments. 20-25mph on flat will due for now. Beats the **** out of that week of manually pedaling lol! Again thanks guys!!
You may want to go to 24/1 on the next gallon and see if that helps, I start at 24/1 with all new engines. After break in I run 32/1 with a good oil formulated for air cooled engines.
Makes a big difference 87 octane will accumulate water over night, unless you add a adative i use Sea Foam. Work on lawn mowers drain and clean gas in tank she used it to mow once. Brought it back, wherever she got the gas turned to water over night.
Do what Greg says you will be fine..............Curt
Do what Greg says you will be fine..............Curt
Ok, I'm going to a 36T sprocket. I think I'm going to stick with stock carb. Since Ive seen a lot of people get good results. Asap I'm going to change stock muffler. Since its so restricting. Trying to get back up to about 30mph. Idk what it was, but I haven't been able to get 30mph out of her since smh. But like I said I'm grateful for 23mph (still open to suggestions for more speed tho lol). Any suggestions on how to stop the motor from interfering with computer? Some say stop motor from grounding to frame. I'm thinking if I put rubber in between computer sensor and display screen where they mount to bike instead will do it...
If you change the rear sprocket you will lose low end torque, you will have to do a lot more peddling.
