The belt for the sheave of rear wheel in one picture, has been removed so I could work with the new chain tension.
I checked the pillow bearings resistance on the jackshaft and it still spins nice.
These shorter pieces of chain are moving between 1750 and 3000 rpm and is critical for them to be the right tension.
I found chain tension came out when the jackshaft pillow bearing brackets moved up on one side. I was on a short at home test ride after I had replaced the chain. Now I got to find a way to make things so that they don’t slip.
I used external star tooth washers and the split lock washers. These wear out. I have split lock washers that looked nearly flat, so I know they are recycle.
The external star tooth washer I read are not good for but wood, plastic, & soft metal like aluminum. I am not using the external start tooth washers anymore.
Instead, I am now using shim cut specific keys for the chain tension. Since the bolt is captured in place, the jackshaft pillow bearing brackets cannot move. True it seems a little bit of a hassle with these shims, but I am not concerned that much.
I also thought about making a screw adjustment for chain tension. Something similar to the kind I've seen used on rear wheel drop-outs.
Pictured are two key shims which are inserted above and below tightening bolt threads. HF key sets are great. I have all sizes which helped out after I hacksawed to fit.
The super fine cotter pins on the 35 chain half links I had concern over, so I switched to the: Diamond Chain, one and a half link, with two master links are a tighter fit and still move freely the chain.
Since I know the small belt pulley on the lower jackshaft also gets tension on it, then there can be many forces at play here. I have to make six more shims tomorrow and ready to get to the dirt riding.
MT