bike chain ?

[gill vanderwerf]

i have a tractor supply here now and they have those 10' packs of chain nr 41 is that the one i hear people talk about here in forum?
i was there this morning and they had one left for like $24- but i am not sure if #41 is the right size.

 

[curtisfox]

IT IS AND HAS BEEN USED FOR YEARS. It is a little wider then bike chain and the widest of the 400 series, I believe..........Curt

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

Sold at TSC? You know darn well a farmer is not going to spend money for goods that do not hold up.
Fish around on Amazon and Ebay. 10ft boxes of NOS show up all the time of Diamond brand USA chain
Tom

 

[gill vanderwerf]

IT IS AND HAS BEEN USED FOR YEARS. It is a little wider then bike chain and the widest of the 400 series, I believe..........Curt

is there a size that is the same as the regular bike chain?

 

[curtisfox]

Bicycle drive chain standard dimensions | BikeGremlin US

Dimension standards for bicycle driving chains. Pitch, inner and outer widths of single, and multi-speed bicycle driving chains.

bike.bikegremlin.com

Ok most bike chain is too narrow for kit sprockets and rid up high on the sprockets, lot of guys file or grind them down to fit and the kit chain is usually junk anyway so just get the right chain to start with it will last a lot longer..................Curt

 

[Larry Trotter]

A number 41 is a little wider than the 415 chain in these kits. The sprockets in the kits are generally thinner than a standard 415 sprocket. If you have any close clearance issues the wider chain will make things worse. eBay replacement chains are under 15 bucks delivered. No reason really to go with the 41.

 

[gill vanderwerf]

thanks so much for this info guys

 

[dusan]

if you want something that will be a bit more reliable you can always order from a specialty shop that specializes in chains and other driveline products. 10 feet of a good quality US made chain can be had for $30 from such a supplier.
it's probably overkill for a motorized bike but i am a fan of piece of mind. https://www.usarollerchain.com/415-Roller-Chain-p/415-chain-10ft.htm

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

I am going try this brand. I have not had a real problem with chain, but this one says besides shot peened, it is pre-stretched.

SpeeCo S06351 #35 Roller Chain x 10 Feet with Connecting Link


Aserson Seller
on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Farmex-06351-10-Roller-Chain/dp/B000WZ5MJ2/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=speeco%2B35%2Bchain&qid=1633234008&sr=8-5&th=1

I should really look for some way to make removing a cover I have over the couple of chains for gear clutch and reduction quicker to access to lube. Unfortunately last time I rode I did not check. It was quite dry.

I do make a rule to lube the bronze bushing on the centrifugal clutch and the chains are there at the same time so it all gets done.

Anyway if this time cutting the chain pieces need some adjustment beside full links, I'll be using 1.5 length links instead of the 0.5 links. Achieves the same thing, but you don't use those super tiny cotter pins as on the 0.5 link. Instead just one normal master link. One less link with a 1.5 link and it equates to a 0.5 link anyway.

MT

 

[Greg58]

I've been running the #41 chain from tractor supply for 10 years on my avatar and haven't had any problems. If you take care of it it will outlast the engine.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

The belt for the sheave of rear wheel in one picture, has been removed so I could work with the new chain tension.

I checked the pillow bearings resistance on the jackshaft and it still spins nice.

These shorter pieces of chain are moving between 1750 and 3000 rpm and is critical for them to be the right tension.

I found chain tension came out when the jackshaft pillow bearing brackets moved up on one side. I was on a short at home test ride after I had replaced the chain. Now I got to find a way to make things so that they don’t slip.

I used external star tooth washers and the split lock washers. These wear out. I have split lock washers that looked nearly flat, so I know they are recycle.

The external star tooth washer I read are not good for but wood, plastic, & soft metal like aluminum. I am not using the external start tooth washers anymore.

Instead, I am now using shim cut specific keys for the chain tension. Since the bolt is captured in place, the jackshaft pillow bearing brackets cannot move. True it seems a little bit of a hassle with these shims, but I am not concerned that much.
I also thought about making a screw adjustment for chain tension. Something similar to the kind I've seen used on rear wheel drop-outs.

Pictured are two key shims which are inserted above and below tightening bolt threads. HF key sets are great. I have all sizes which helped out after I hacksawed to fit.

The super fine cotter pins on the 35 chain half links I had concern over, so I switched to the: Diamond Chain, one and a half link, with two master links are a tighter fit and still move freely the chain.

Since I know the small belt pulley on the lower jackshaft also gets tension on it, then there can be many forces at play here. I have to make six more shims tomorrow and ready to get to the dirt riding.

MT

 

[curtisfox]

Now days? as far as I know they always had then until multi speed bike com along, all the bikes I had as a kid had master links...........Curt

 

[Tom from Rubicon]

A sight impaired person can locate a master link. On my Schwinn Paramount P15, any pin will do. Shadow Conspiracy BMX chain has no master either. But I like it. Interlock Supreme Chain - The Shadow Conspiracy

Tom