Bicycle review

Discussion in 'Pre-Motorized Bicycle Information.' started by Dan, Mar 23, 2009.

  1. Dan

    Dan Staff
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    Hiker! Was gonna put your picture on a milk carton, ain't seen ya in so long. How are ya? School going well? Been so long ya prolly have yer master's by now. Great point about the rear wheel. Having trouble finding a matching HD that isn't coaster brake-ed. Open to suggestions here! The HD ones from MB suppliers all seem to be 44T for 2 smokers.

    The HF rips cheap spokes like nutton.

    Am just back from the eye doc and am typing from memory and brail. Forgive the typos. Or not. Is an optional thing, snork
     
  2. hiker472

    hiker472 New Member

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    I'm doing well, eh. Took the summer off from school and the internet, but I'm back for the winter again.

    The review I did on mine, earlier on this thread, is now being used with a very beefy rear wheel that has a Bendix Redline hub that I got off Ebay, and I no longer have broken spokes!

    I think all those rear wheels on these cheaper bikes are crap and it doesn't matter what engine you use either. Outside of getting a custom built one, probably the only other alternative is to keep an eye on Ebay. I know you need a non-coaster brake wheel for more gears, but what about looking for the Bendix yellow line hub in a real beefy wheel? If I'm not mistaken, the yellow line has three gears and this way you could at least have some gears. Tough decisions all the way around!

    xct2
     
  3. NEAT TIMES

    NEAT TIMES New Member

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    Dan
    Do You Remember, Many Months Ago I Posted That The Bear`s May Have Gotten Our "hiker" ??

    Hiker
    It Is Funny You Just Mentioned A 3 Speed Hub. Have A Nice Royce Union 4 Speed Internal Hub Bike. Sorta Figured Out A Way To Make A Rear Rack Mount Shifter With The Little 5:1 Gear Box. Will Need A Free Wheel On The Pedal Crank. It Is An Easy Do With Two "staton" Parts.

    I Need To Start Some Threads Of My Own Diy. I Get Too Much Off Thread In Other Member`s Threads!! Have Been Trying To Control My Self.

    I`m Gonna Eat A Can Of Worm`s, I Don`t Think Anybody Like`s Me.
     
  4. silverbear

    silverbear The Boy Who Never Grew Up

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    Aw, I like ya Ron. But worms are supposed to be high in protein. But low in taste, I'm guessing. Let me know. Some hot sauce might help.
    Yes, please do some threads of your stuff with pictures and explanations for the old slow ones here sitting in the back of the class. Assume we know nothing, which in my case is pretty much right on when it comes to gears and shifting, etc. I know I want 'em is all.
    SB
     
  5. Dan

    Dan Staff
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    Was funny Hiker. Tore an old wally world rear wheel up. I attributed it to not having enough pedal clearance to pedal with HF and whisper drive prototype. Then went threw 2 more wheels. All had lots of miles on em with 2 and 4 stroke engines. Re-laced with better spokes and goes well. But you are right, need HD on both front and rear. Just found these on Terry's ( http://blowbyumotorizedbicycles.ca/6052.html ) page. $49.99 USD Wonder if I could bore em out and put worksman spokes on them a a rim? I think Worksman are 10G?
    (just read on worksman site, might be 11G)

    "Kit includes a solid sprocket, heavy duty axle, and drum brake. For use with StarFire and SkyHawk bicycle engine kits. Please specify either 44, 48, or 56 tooth sprocket."

    Every one loves Uncle Ron. (Crazy 'ol fish batter=er, snork)

    Really looking forward to seeing how your doing that Ron. Sounds purty cool. Where did you find a 5:1 GB?

    .flg.
     
    #65 Dan, Sep 11, 2010
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2010
  6. hiker472

    hiker472 New Member

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    The thicker the spoke, the stronger they'll be. My Greenline came with 12g stainless steel spokes and those things just snap at will........hindsight is 20/20!

    Does Worksman's sell just wheels? If they come with 10g steel, those would be an asset. I'll never use stainless again for a rear wheel.

    I would think that if there was enough meat on the spoke flange, then boring them out would be doable. The one on my Greenline didn't have enough to do it, because that was what I was thinking of doing, but now I have this s-7 rim with that Bendix and that Bendix has enough meat on it to bore those holes bigger if I wanted to, but the spokes are at least 10g already on it.

    All these new entrepreneurial folks opening up businesses to sell products for our bikes and still no one is selling/making spoke-less bicycle wheels!

    drn2
     
  7. NEAT TIMES

    NEAT TIMES New Member

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    Danny

    I think you know, will call my house boat "house for battered fish".

    The 5:1 gear box is the standard Pocket Bike reverse rotation, a tuff little unit. Yesterday I took pic`s of the parts for my diy rack mount internal multi speed hub idea. Was looking at pic`s after i down loaded them to my hard drive.

    Then realized it could be much simplier and "gooder" ! lol.

    May as well post some pic`s here today, maybe someone will do it. I just like thinking up ways to us parts for easy diy and economical/dependable builds. Not likely I will ever get to it.

    I have a Staton axle freewheel adapter $15. 7/8" bore. It fit perfectly in the center of a china girl rear sprocket. Weld them together and bolt to the multi speed hub sprocket. The rear rack mounted motor and reverse rotation 5:1 gear box or a cvt will drive the large china girl sprocket.

    Then just screw a freewheel sprocket to the Staton axle adapter for the pedal chain and you have it. Tapered head allen bolt`s in countersunk holes may be necessary when bolting to multi speed hub, for freewheel chain clearance.

    I may need to take some updated pic`s today and down size them.

    This is all in fun, hope this thread hi jacking is not upsetting anyone! If it is, just speak up, i will delete and sometime may get around to starting a thread.

    May add more pic`s later. The small sprocket`s in the pic`s are to be replaced with the freewheel sprocket for the pedal chain.

    I really feel this is a cool, simple , dependable and economical diy shifter with any durable internal multi speed hub.

    Ron .cvlt1 PS adding a pic of my cvt rack mount for a more complete idea.
     

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    #67 NEAT TIMES, Sep 11, 2010
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2010
  8. Dan

    Dan Staff
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    As always, purty awesome. I've lost count but think that puts you at 44 builds? Wow Ron, think that's a record. You have so many (and to few) documented. I am thinking step by step guide/how2 book. If some one will pay to produce it, a lil extra ching never hurt. I read the one below and seems spot on. I really think you should do this.

    SoYouWanna publish a book? | SoYouWanna.com
     
  9. flmotorbikes

    flmotorbikes New Member

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  10. Dave31

    Dave31 Moderator
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    Bump

    How about a review of your bike? What do you like about it? What don't you like about it? How difficult was it to motorize?
     
  11. Dirt Road Cowboy

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    I have a late 80's/early 90's Schwinn frontier mountain bike. It is very strong and durable, and will take anything that I have put it through.

    I have a 4 stroke friction drive on it right now because I wasn't able to get the CG to run. The FD was no problem.

    The China Girl engine mounted in it with no problem other than needing the larger front motor mount. The rear sprocket fit perfectly with no modifications.

    Someday i may mess with the CG again, or just put it in a different bike.


    cvlt1

    .
     
  12. FormerMPSGT

    FormerMPSGT New Member

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    SCHWINN POINT BEACH: I put Heavy Duty Front & Rear Wheel with Drum Brakes on both; rear I only had a 6 Speed since it is a Sachs I couldnt switch the cassette from the Original so re adjusted the 7 Speed Shifter that came with the bike setting the 'Stops' as I call them and it works fine. I will put a Jack Shaft so I do not have to try to overcome the Large Drum Brake Hub which I couldnt figure out how to do anyways problem was I didnt know what the Jack Shafts were called only I knew the concept and kept trying til I found one. I want a better Gas Tank; a Wrap Around my frame larger capacity. I do not like the ones that come in a Kit and I wont be buying a Kit since I have done so much myself already I am hand picking my equipment as I do not like EXTRA's! Any Suggestions for the Gas Tank? What about a Lifan Engine; I live in Iowa and only 49cc Single Speed and I insist on a 4 Stroke any Suggestions? I am willing to spend the Money to avoid replacing the Cheap later! Thanks all!
     
  13. Dave31

    Dave31 Moderator
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    Bump

    How about a review of your bike? What do you like about it? What don't you like about it? How difficult was it to motorize?
     
    Dan likes this.
  14. boxcar

    boxcar New Member

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    Centrix cruiser.
    Don't know where it was built or who built it.
    Not much info on the web about this brand. ( May be an Australian made bike )
    I did read that somewhere.
    Found the partial bike in a wrecking yard crush pile.
    $2 bought it.
    19" tig welded steel frame.
    Nice big tubes / 3 piece steel crank / cable bungs in all the right places / 6 speed shifter with suntour derailers.
    The only pic I have of the bike were all taken after I added the fenders , bars , seat , deore brakes and wheels.
    It came with 1.95 white walls on single wall alloy rims. No fenders ,wide cruiser bars and a fat no name seat.
    Was Red and white .

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    After some touch up paint:

    [​IMG]

    The frame is strong and light for a seal frame.
    Beautiful welds and nice finish.
    The paint is a bit thin and scratches easily.

    The conversion:

    I used a 2014 short intake 66cc china girl kit with large tube mounts.
    Fit the frame perfectly with no alterations.
    The engine sits nice and low in the frame.
    Rides very well, with good balance. ( as built )

    As it was a basket case I have no opinion on how it rode stock.

    This frame ( if you can find one ) is perfect for conversion to a MTB.
    Everything just seems to fit .
    Chain clears the frame with no need for a tensioner ( I run a spring tensioner any way ).
    The 19" frame fits a 5'8" rider well but would seem small for taller riders...
    As the bike was a bit stiff I did add a sutour suspension fork and a suspension seat post to the bike.
    The stock fork was a very stout unit though.

    The bike as it sat ( pre suspension fork )

    [​IMG]

    Ater suspension:

    [​IMG]
     
    #74 boxcar, Jan 16, 2015
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2015
    Dan likes this.
  15. JerryAssburger

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    HYPER BEACH CRUISER $99at Walmart.


    PROS: Good price, not a very common bike (you have to order it). Love the looks of the bike. Engine was an easy fit. Stock tension wheel works perfectly because of the oval cross-section of the frame where the tension bracket bolts up. Seat post is angled back. Not bad for $99.

    CONS: Biggest con is the skinny spokes- they definitely are questionable with the rag joint. Fenders could use beefier brackets. (Surprise Surprise.)

    All in all, I'm happy I chose this as my first build. This picture shows it with the Cranbrook rims on it and a Gel-Seat. (The original was really nice, too... but I used it on my son's bike. 20170522_215229_HDR.jpg
     
    Dan likes this.
  16. Dan

    Dan Staff
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    Suweet and pretty work, Boxcar.
     
  17. Dan

    Dan Staff
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    Really nice looking build, Jerry. With a layback seatpost would have a Bobber look.

    Watch them fenders!
     
  18. xXNightRiderXx

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    Roadmaster mountain sport

    Overall a quite sturdy bike, nice steel construction, steel single wall rims and steel 16ga spokes.

    Pros: steel construction makes this bike a decent choice for motorizing. It is very sturdy, and heavy. The 26" wheels make this bikes handling very responsive, but wide. Handlebars are placed a great distance from the seat, and when using the pedals as pegs, with the seat dropped as far as it can go comfortably, makes for a nice, comfortable, upright ride if you're 5' 11" or under. I made mine a shifter with a pull start because I have too much slack to pedal start. Gearing is optimized for cruising around and offroading.

    Cons: this bike is fairly small, only providing enough space to barely fit a 66cc. You will need to use the rear studs to mount the engine to the downtube, as it is enlongated. Carb will not fit, so you will need to install an offset manifold. One piece crank makes for an issue when making a shifter bike, as you need an adapter kit. Stock 3/32 chain is too long for the shift kit, and you may need to grind the teeth of the inner sprocket to fit. You cannot use a master link, as the pin lock will fail. This bike does not have the option for direct drive, there is not enough clearance between the sprocket and chain stay for this system to work. Chainstays are relatively short, so you get a stiff ride, but they are long enough for a jackshaft. Unless you have gloves, you WILL get blisters shifting this thing under normal city operation.

    I bought my bike used, and the owner before the seller did not take care of the bike at all. Suspension is frozen and needs to be replaced. Right side shifter is locked into place, and I will strip the screw if I try to move it.
     
  19. xXNightRiderXx

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    Kent roadtech

    This road bike is a perfect candidate for commuting, fitness, or just adventuring. Steel construction makes this bike lean more to the heavy side, but does not weigh above 24 lbs. 700x38c tires make this quite beefier than most road bikes, but makes it a lot easier to get rolling. I've hit potholes at 40mph with this, and never had an issue.

    Pros: large conventional triangle makes this a good bike for a large range of engines. Three piece crank and an inch and a half of space in front of the rear tire makes it easy to turn this bike into a speed demon. Steel construction makes this quite sturdy. Dual wall alloy rims have alloy spokes, and are deep dish, so they will hold up much better than any single wall, and are stronger than all but deeper dish rims. Drop bars come stock for better aerodynamics, and can be changed with a bit of work. Shifting is smooth, but slow.

    Cons: this bike is heavy for a road bike, and may present a challenge for shorter riders, as it is as tall as it is heavy. The rigid frame makes for a slightly rougher ride, but the frame is fairly flexible. The shifters are placed on the stem, you you must take your hand off the bar to shift. The shifters are of the rod type. I can't say how it shifts with an engine, or how the gearing is optimized, as I did not have the opportunity to turn it into a shifter. If I have the chance, I want to put a 79cc into this bike, and make it a shifter so I can use it as my commuter.
     

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