been working on this thing for 3 weeks bout to give up chain and sprocket issue

Insignia707

Insignia707

New Member
So i might be a dumbass but i havent gotten the motor running yet and i've run into some problems already. I finally got the chain tool to put the chain onto the wheel sprocket and the engine sprocket next to the clutch. So I hopped on my ride and tried to pedal, the rear bicycle wheel moves only like a half cm when i pedal. So I stomped and jumped on the pedals and literally put all my weight on the pedals, then the rear wheel moved like an inch. so i took the chain off and used a socket & ratchet wrench to try to move the chain sprocket in the engine without the chain, it was hella hard to move the sprocket and took a lot of upper body strength... it was the same way when i fed the chain through. It's a two stroke raw gas engine. I'm assume that theres something wrong with the engine sprocket? If you can help me that would be awesome of you.
 
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The engine is hard to turn because of gearing and compression. You still need to hook up the clutch and then you'll be able to pedal the bike with the clutch lever pulled in.
 
when i read your replies i didnt have it installed, i just put in the clutch just now... it still doesnt work. I dont know if i put the clutch pin/bolt in the right way in the engine sprocket cover. The clutch pin/bolt is cut into a half circle, does it matter if the flat side or the round side of the clutch pin is next to the bolt connected to the engine sprocket? I know that the spring/tension is at a decent tension, the clutch moves a 1/4" when i put the clutch in when i tried to pedal. The chain is tight as ****. I readjusted the chain tensioner to get better clearance for the chain and to get better tension. so what the **** is the problem?
 
Insignia707 said:
when i read your replies i didnt have it installed, i just put in the clutch just now... it still doesnt work. I dont know if i put the clutch pin/bolt in the right way in the engine sprocket cover. The clutch pin/bolt is cut into a half circle, does it matter if the flat side or the round side of the clutch pin is next to the bolt connected to the engine sprocket? I know that the spring/tension is at a decent tension, the clutch moves a 1/4" when i put the clutch in when i tried to pedal. The chain is tight as ****. I readjusted the chain tensioner to get better clearance for the chain and to get better tension. so what the **** is the problem?
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WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN SMOKIN'? You don't have to install the clutch, you hook up the clutch lever/cable to the clutch actuator arm, What you have described is a "woodruff key" which goes rounded side down, flat side up and is used to drive whatever is on the shaft it's in. WHAT ARE YOU DOING WITH A WOODRUFF KEY. We got to have pictures of the patient before we can go any further, You'll get it, for now you might be better served to NOT touch anything, unless it is to turn it over for pictures! DON'T FRET Walter F.
 
You may want to check whole clutch cable set-up. Without seeing it, it is hard to tell what is wrong. So I will go over the whole thing. You had to take the cluch lever and cover off to put the chain on, then repace cover there is a ballbearing in the in the hole where the push pin goes, check to be sure it is there. The levers's flat side will be toward the push pin when you put the cover back on. The lever will face the rear wheel. Install the clutch cable coming from the clutch handle bar lever that is on the left hand grip side. The larger spring is a heat shield and goes over the cable first to keep it off the motor. Feed the cable thru the cable stop that is located on the right top of motor. The thinner spring now goes on next between the cable stop and the clutch lever on the motor. feed cabel thru the motors clutch lever and pull all the slack out so cable is tight. Secure cable while pulling usin the small collar, usin a screw driver. Now check and see that the clutch lever moves in a good ways when you pull the handle bar lever. sometimes it takes more adjusting. I hope this has helped.
 
by the way some1 told me to take out the spark plug... apparently there's no compression in the engine when you do that. did that & still cant pedal? so what now?
 
If the clutch is working, it would not matter if the engine was locked up, it would still pedal. the clutch must work to start the motor and also to be able to stop the bike. So check the clutch set up
 
I know that it's hard to diagnose & fix the issue over the web but i took what pics i could & i appreciate it guys & i wasnt talking about a woodruff key, the half circle thing i was talking bout is in the 2nd to the last pic. It was hard to get the chain on a women's bike frame with decent clearance, so i used skateboard bearing's for additional tension, but i dont think that should be a problem. also this is my first build... I'm really clueless... so be nice if you can cuz ive been at this for 3.5 weeks now & I REALLY JUST WANNA SAY FOOK IT & GIVE UP.
bicycle11.jpg
bicycle12.jpg
bicycle7.jpg
 
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Sometimes the clutch is "stuck" from being engaged since birth so you really need to spin engine over hard & fast to "break" it loose. If you do this with clutch disengaged and spark plug removed, you want to make sure the CDI is DISCONNECTED, blue & black wires. It is rumored that spinning engine over with spark plug out or wire off plug (ungrounded) will blow the CDI, no one has explained why however. Error on the safe side. A hill can be your friend if you're at the top of said hill. Walter F.
 
Re: I GIVE UP. been working on this thing for 3 weeks.... chain and sprocket issue

"You had to take the cluch lever and cover off to put the chain on, then repace cover there is a ballbearing in the in the hole where the push pin goes, check to be sure it is there. The levers's flat side will be toward the push pin when you put the cover back on." What do you mean by push pin & ballbearings?
 
What you have in your hand in the next to last picture is the clutch actuator cam shaft which pushes in the pin that pushes the little ball that disengages the clutch.

On another note the chain as it exits of the small engine sprocket at the bottom looks awful close to the engine casting, might be a potential problem.Walter F.
 
misteright1_99 said:
Dude thats NEVER gonna work like that. For one the carb MUST be vertical, NOT tilted like that, even if you do sort out your clutch problems. That bicycle is the wrong choice for a motor. Here is a link for the clutch from Norman............


http://motorbicycling.com/f4/bicycle-engine-clutch-222.html
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The carbburator is sitting like that cuz i was messing around with the seat and didnt want to lose my parts & screws in all my tools. im aware that the pipe to the carb is upside down & the carb is sitting sideways... it's the wrong frame? it's a 60 dollar frame from target.. im not spending more money on a nicer bike frame. im a broke college student, man.
 
HI,

I do hope you get your clutch situation figured out (IF it is a clutch issue...read on)....

Assuming you do or will shortly, two things concern me about your setup :

1) The chain tensioner will probably live a VERY short life....IF you manage to get the engine running....PLUS if the chain tensioner fails you have an IMMENSE amount of extra chain and that can be dangerous if it causes things to jamb up at speed (this will lock up the rear wheel and cause a skid at best OR worse things can happen.....Accident etc...

The reason I say the tensioner WILL fail is because the TOP of the chain is under tension when moving forward under engine power....the plastic will NOT live very long under those conditions....Also depending on engine load, the stress ob the little bolt will be high and may lead to its failure as well.

I don't mean to sound so negative about the above but it is a REAL safety issue.

2) The engine may have difficulty getting fuel....there is no fuel pump so the level of the gas tank has to be above the carb (it is a gravity fed set up)...Hard to tell from the pics tho.

Good Luck BUT I would seriously think about item #1 Above.

Hope this helps you.

Andrew

PS - I also noted in your pics that the chain looks as though it rubs against the the lower bolt hole area of where the engine sprocket cover goes...Not seeing the bike up close and personal, there is a chance that the clutch is correct and the binding is coming from the chain configuration/setup ....While I admire your attempt to get it running (I like projects that think "out of the box"), I think a more conventional setup would beneficial in this case (I realize price is an issue so I might suggest the local Salvation Army or Good Will store sometimes have good bikes at nearly give away prices).
 
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Insignia707 said:
The carbburator is sitting like that cuz i was messing around with the seat and didnt want to lose my parts & screws in all my tools. im aware that the pipe to the carb is upside down & the carb is sitting sideways... it's the wrong frame? it's a 60 dollar frame from target.. im not spending more money on a nicer bike frame. im a broke college student, man.
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I also got my bicycle at Target and it was $50. but you have to think about the engine mounting situations before buying the frame. You can read thru the link I posted to cheack for proper clutch action, there is alot of info in the beginning that doesnt apply but farther on show how it works. As Andy said the tensioner is a very dangerous item if not installed properly. On the back side ot the tensioner are you are running the chain under some ball bearings?
 
Andyinchville1 said:
HI,

I do hope you get your clutch situation figured out....

Assuming you do or will shortly, two things concern me about your setup :

1) The chain tensioner will probably live a VERY short life....IF you manage to get the engine running....PLUS if the chain tensioner fails you have an IMMENSE amount of extra chain and that can be dangerous if it causes things to jamb up at speed (this will lock up the rear wheel and cause a skid at best OR worse things can happen.....Accident etc...

The reason I say the tensioner WILL fail is because the TOP of the chain is under tension when moving forward under engine power....the plastic will NOT live very long under those conditions....Also depending on engine load, the stress ob the little bolt will be high and may lead to its failure as well.

I don't mean to sound so negative about the above but it is a REAL safety issue.

2) The engine may have difficulty getting fuel....there is no fuel pump so the level of the gas tank has to be above the carb (it is a gravity fed set up)...Hard to tell from the pics tho.

Good Luck BUT I would seriously think about item #1 Above.

Hope this helps you.

Andrew

PS - I also noted in your pics that the chain looks as though it rubs against the the lower bolt hole area of where the engine sprocket cover goes.....While I admire your attempt to get it running (I like projects that think "out of the box"), I think a more conventional setup would beneficial.
Click to expand...


I considered about the fuel line & was thinking about the fuel pump. but your right the chain DOES rub against the bolt hole on the engine which could be the reason why its hard to turn the engine over & pedal. That's pretty rad of you to notice that, i missed that. I'm honestly thinking is that a women's bike frame is just causing all kinds of problems. such as the angle that the chain has to attach to the rear wheel sprocket which causes it to rub against the bolt hole on the engine. Then there's the location of where the engine is mounted.. which makes it hard for the engine to get fuel. then there's the chain clearance to the frame... the way the frame is built gets in the way of the chain clearance. I'm thinking about buying a men's bike from walmart: Walmart.com: 26" Men's Sierra Mountain Bike: Bikes, Scooters & Skates
do you think if i bought this bike frame, it'd make it easier?
 
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