And Yet Another 1st Cranny Build - Some Issues

Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by donkeyman2341, Jul 29, 2011.

  1. donkeyman2341

    donkeyman2341 New Member

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    Ok I took off the 2nd piece of rubber on the inside on the tire. I cut it in half and put it on the other side of the spokes. The problem I am now running into is my rear axle seems to have locked up. Its like the coaster brake is in a permanent "on" position, even though I have the wheel off of the bike. I've been messing with it all night, figuring a bearing or something got moved, but I can't figure it out.

    Does anyone have any tips for the rear axle?
     
  2. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    heer are a few hardware pics so you can see the ones i replaced:

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    #22 IreBo, Aug 1, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2011
  3. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    Picture 064.JPG

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    Picture 084.JPG keep about 3/4" or so slack in the chain


    And about the chain you will need to get a chain breaker and make sure to leave the two thinner ends on the chain so you can install the master link!
     
  4. riminicat

    riminicat New Member

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    Thanks IreBo, I should have the bike in sometime this week. I'm ordering a break kit off amazon, maybe I'll order a chain brake too.
     
  5. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    Yes you will need a chain breaker... but get one that works in both standard size bicycle and the larger 415 chain. My Park tool chain breaker is barley big enuf for the 415 but still works. i also added a few links to the origional cranbrook chain so the axle sits all the way up in the slot. i wanted it to bite as much metal as possible..... though not nessary
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    #25 IreBo, Aug 2, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2011
  6. riminicat

    riminicat New Member

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    Awesome, my bike should be here today, I've got to pick up a few more tools and parts, and at least a front brake. And probably a twelve packcvlt1
     
  7. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    Yer gunna need a bit more than a 12 pack! lol

    beer.JPG

    sounds like you have planned properly, good luck. let me know if you need any help....
     
    #27 IreBo, Aug 3, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2011
  8. riminicat

    riminicat New Member

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    Gunna need more than that with out a doubt now, the front tire isn't true at all, it wobbles with a lot of play. I thought maybe it was because the front tire wasn't sitting in the forks correctly, so I readjusted it, made sure it was even, and now it wobbles with about a quarter inch of play. Seriously, it's bad. Not sure if I should contact huffy, or walmart.
     
  9. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    my front wheele had a tiny wobble at first...

    well if the wheele is out of true it can be fixed... a bit of a pain but you know what you have after you mess with it instead of relying on a factory made wheele. almost all new wheeles have to be "trued" and re trued after a few rides. if the wheele is seriously wobbly ide take it back... on the other hand their are a few things to check before you waste youre time trying to warreny parts and end up with the same thing when you get the new wheele!all low dollar bikes need to be gone over with a fine tooth comb.. it could be the bead is not set properly .... but ide bet from what you described its just a case of loose bearings. you may need to adjust the cone and lock nut on the axle...

    ive had to adjust mine and have had to re-set the rear the first few rides while all the components "broke in".... keep a close eye on the rear bearings. shake the wheele after everey ride.... loose packed bearings need frequent attention...
     
  10. riminicat

    riminicat New Member

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    Dang it I sent it back, I've got another one on the way. I went and checked the bikes on the shelf, and every one of them did the same thing.
     
  11. riminicat

    riminicat New Member

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    Hey did you ever get this figured out? I kinda feel like I hijacked your thread.
     
  12. donkeyman2341

    donkeyman2341 New Member

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    HAHAh no worries, I've been super busy and haven't had time to update this. But I basically finished my build. However, I haven't started the engine due to issues that keep popping up. (Loosing throttle springs, loosing screws...) I seriously think there is a troll in my garage stealing my parts.

    Anyways, I will post some pics here tonight...I fixed the chain by taking out 2 links. It helped a lot but I still need the tensioner.

    My problem right now is my chain tensioner keeps moving into my spokes right when I release the clutch to start the engine. I think I may try to put a bolt through the tensioner and through the frame to secure it, but can't figure out why this is happening!!! The chain is basically coming off of the rear sprocket and pulling the tensioner into the wheel.

    And my gas tank is leaking.

    And my throttle only moves 1/16 of a turn on the handle before the throttle is "wide open"

    /sigh
     
    #32 donkeyman2341, Aug 5, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2011
  13. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    Yea, the throttle on these do only turn a little. if it sits on the idle adjustment screw when you let go and opens to full throttle when twisted then i dont see a problem with that. i usually move the adjuster on the carb so the slider will move all the way up. that may be yer prob..?

    as for the chain tensioner moveing it just sounds like you need to tighten the two mounting bolts tighter. i had to tighten the one on my Trek so tight that it bent the week stock hardware and i replaced them with grade 8 bolts and nuts, then just cranked them down as hard as i could. i would deffinetly do that before drilling that part of the frame.. as we have pointed out the huffy frame is thin and it may form a crack or plain snap.??

    are you shure that you have everything lined up?? get down behind the sproket and sight the chain from rear sprocket to the front one get them lined up as well as you can. that and tighten up the guide and you should be fine.

    only time i had that happen to me is when the chain bound up in the engine clutch cover and locked up the drivetrain on a first start. it moved the roller bracket and broke the plastic roller

    hope you get this before ya drill. good luck, and T>G>I>F!!
     
    #33 IreBo, Aug 5, 2011
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2011
  14. donkeyman2341

    donkeyman2341 New Member

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    Awesome thanks for the reply. So my tensioner is so tight its starting to bend the bike frame...which leads me to believe I may have other issues I need to sort out before drilling. aka lining it up. will look at that tonight.

    do you know of an engine tutorial online?? something that shows exactly how to hook everything up and troubleshooting? my spark plug starter thing kinda fell apart, so I just wanna make sure I put that together correctly. and Ive never used a carb before so some type of outline that shows what everything does would be nice.

    thanks. will post some pics shortly
     
  15. BadBoy2114

    BadBoy2114 New Member

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    I also have a cranbrook and this is also my first build.....i am having problems with the chain rubbing the tires...how can i fix this ?
     
  16. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    Donkey, that’s rather important...the lining it up thing.. lol , that made me chuckle.. sorry.. i have found that getting the chain lined up is one of the key elements to a happy engine.
    Back ground story: my first build on my trek. After a few break-in runs, ( I usually go around the block the long way and return home and let it cool completely. Ill do that cycle about 6 or 7 times then figure by that time most parts wore in ok.) I took off to Monterey from Marina about, 8 or 9 miles… my motor started to run funny and lost a lot of power.. I thought I had used up the little engine already and was quite bummed out to say the least. When I returned home (limping back) I did a post flight check and found that one of the rear engine mount studs broke. The one closest to the chain. I had to ez out the stud from the block and I quickly replaced all bolts with better hardware and lok-tite . long story short the alignment was off after the stud broke and made the chain run out of alignment, it was fighting the teeth and made the motor loose a lot of power….. long winded but hope it shows how important alignment is.
     
  17. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    badboy, if you look at the earlier pics in this thred you will see some i posted. if you have the dish facing inwards, teeth closer to the wheele, then you need to flip it, we had a bit of a discussion earlier, just back track.... ide say flip the sproket


    Donkey what the hek is a spark plug starter?? youre cdi? well that sux if it is... how did it fall apart,,, also have you got youre motor to turn over or run yet? is youre chain bound up or something... bike roll with clutch in lock position?

    also he carb if stock nt style really has no adjustments other than an idle screw and a c clip on the slide needle. you can change the jet also but ive found that it really is an ok carb, cns is a bit finekey. but a notable top end kick.. just get the slide to move all the way up nad down freely and you got it...
     
  18. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    Hay Riminicat, what happend with the front wheele?
     
  19. donkeyman2341

    donkeyman2341 New Member

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    WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I just ran my bike for the 1st time!!! It was sooo great I'm amazingly stoked.

    Yes I now realise this. Turns out my back tire was slightly misaligned, causing the sprocket to slowly pull the chain off of alignment, but at a higher speed, it happened very quickly.

    My note on chain tensioners: ****em. The stock one sucks. I tried everything to get it to work, including using a skateboard tire. Finally I just wised up and removed a few more links from my chain. So much better. I adjust the tension by moving the back tire where it needs to be. I rather tension the bike chain anyways since its way less important. But haven't had to do that yet.

    You notice everything wobbling around when your going fast with the engine. Woooeeeyyy. Kinda scary!
     
  20. donkeyman2341

    donkeyman2341 New Member

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    Forgot to mentioned I fixed all my other problems, including the throttle which seems to work great now. I modded the hand grip to allow for more play in the cable.

    Also I got some sealer tape for my gas tank. Works great.

    Question: How does this whole carb thing work? (choke, screw, etc) What is my goal for getting it to idle? If I pull the clutch, should the engine be dying??
     

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