And Yet Another 1st Cranny Build - Some Issues

Discussion in 'Motorized Cruiser Bicycles' started by donkeyman2341, Jul 29, 2011.

  1. donkeyman2341

    donkeyman2341 New Member

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    Hello all, I am new the forum and have been doing a ton of reading and decided this motorbiking thing is most definitely for me. I just got my motor kit today and spent most of the day working on it. (read: staring cluelessly at all the pieces)

    Thought I would just do a mini picture build so people can see whats going on and maybe I can get some help.

    So here's my innocent cranny (Miss Huffy). She has no idea whats about to happen to her...

    [​IMG]

    Heres the unboxing!! Getting excited.

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    And the engine

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    The gas tank. Looking good.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. riminicat

    riminicat New Member

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    I'll be watching your build, my motor should be coming today! I'm also planning on using a Cranny and a brake set from amazon. Have fun!brnot
     
  3. donkeyman2341

    donkeyman2341 New Member

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    (OK! I did all this yesterday but I'm gonna break em up into seperate posts for the sake of easy reading)

    Here's all the parts. My friend and brother are finally starting to believe me that this is going to be cool. Haha.
    I dont know what these few parts are becuase my kit didnt come with any type of receipt, part list, or instructions. Any ideas? Left to right, they are...

    1. Long, thin metal piece with bolt on one end?

    2. A 3 inch metal tubing, with bigger end on one side.

    3. I believe one of the springs is for the throttle, but there is another, smaller spring I'm clueless about.

    [​IMG]


    So I basically spent all afternoon tryin to figure out the rear sprocket on this thing. Going through all the forums and doin my damnest to make it work with the coaster brake.

    Here's what I've come up with so far. Its not correct according to the instructions on RAW motors, which is where I got the kit. If I put the soft pieces on either side of the spokes, the coaster arm wont go back on. But it seems like this way might work...(crosses fingers) Chain clearance is my biggest worry here. Is this way going to work? Dust cap is off to make it fit as well, and the sprocket is technically backwards according to the instructions.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. donkeyman2341

    donkeyman2341 New Member

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    OOOOHHHHH noooooooo!! I was removing one of the mounting screws from the front engine mount. I was going to put on the other mounting hardware for the drilling method, just to see how the plate goes on the motor, when all the sudden................

    [​IMG]

    The bolt broke off inside the engine mount! So frustrating. As you can see from the pic, I've tried drilling it to create an edge, to push it counter-clockwise and spin it out. /sigh From this pic it looks like theres some sort of welding going on, but its just the bolt. hmm.

    I'll be going over to my uncle's shop today to hopefully get this out, cause its putting a big hold on the project. He said he has easy out and a few other methods that will hopefully work.

    The problem was the bolt seemed to long for the engine mount, yet I kept on tightening...my bad. However, according to the picture on the instructions, it is supposed to be almost flush with the mount, leaving just enough room for the plate.

    So this is where i'm at right now. An entire afternoon, and I got the rear sprocket on. Phew, this is going to take longer than I thought. Loving every second of it though!
     
  5. riminicat

    riminicat New Member

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    I don't know a thing about these engines so I can't be much help unfortunately. I was going to suggest downloading the manual from rawmotors website, but it looks like you've already done that.
     
  6. donkeyman2341

    donkeyman2341 New Member

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    Yes, I have no idea about them either. From other builds I've read, seems like people have experience putting engines together and what not. I have no experience, hence the issues, but if i end up getting this thing to all work correctly, anyone can. Haha.
     
  7. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    I built a cranbrook last Sunday…


    Yep, they don’t tap the threads as deep on all of the holes on the raw engines. I did that exact same thing! Same side too.. lol.. It broke way too easey, so that was my clue to go and find grade 8 or 12 m6 allen bolts. That’s key to a happy engine as the bolts that come with it will eventually break! No Joke! They are so soft and junky!! Broke a rear mount stud on my first build. Almost took out the motor case . 6 builds later and I have a whole trash can full of the stock hardware.

    ---definitely a must to use good hardware!

    Oh and don’t use the “T” adapter for the front mount that came with the RAW kit!!! It is significantly thinner than the others offered with kits. It has a 6mm stud that is SOFT METAL!! it’s junk. The other ones have an 8mm stud and the bolt is of ok quality… trust me.. the best thing to do is get the 3 dollar u bolt adapter from RAW. I ordered it and it was pictured as a single u bolt but came as a double u bolt. Pretty nice actually.


    The sprocket looks ok. I used a thin piece of reinforced rubber on the outside between the spokes and sprocket, then used only one of the supplied rubber rag joints on the inside. If the rubber is too thick the sprocket will “walk” around on the hub. Try to make shure its centered. you want to keep an eye on the spacing of the hub and sprocket and tighten in an x pattern like doing a head on an engine. If you tighten one side too much the sprocket will be angled.
    Also I had to take my dust cap off too, but replaced it with an o-ring to help with dirt/grime. went in perfect!
    Keep an eye on the rear hub.. the bearings like to loosten up often and that could be dangerous……

    Good luck, and hope this helps! -Bo


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    #7 IreBo, Jul 29, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2011
  8. rustycase

    rustycase Gutter Rider

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    Uh oh!

    Trouble in River City...

    Well, the biggie is that stripped out hole, but I'll address another part...

    You must install the rag joint with rubber on either side of the spokes.

    ...unless someone WITH a cranbrook says differently, the sprocket dish must be to the outside, placing the teeth AWAY from the center of the wheel.

    Yes, you shall need to bend that coaster brake arm to make it fit... SOP
    Put it in a vice and hit it with a hammer, then re-position it in the vice and hit the end back so it points forward again, in a dogleg...

    IMO
    A coaster brake is NOT acceptable for a bike that shall soon be capable of the speed your cranny is going to see!
    Make arrangements for a new rear brake AND front brake.

    I'm known far and wide for doing dumb, and sometimes stoopid stuff... but NOT for making the same mistake more than once.
    ...A single brake is NOT sufficient OR trustworthy, and coaster brakes have GOT to be way too much fun for even someone like me.
    I really like cheap thrills, cuz that's all I can't spring for... but I at least want a fightin' chance to come out on top of things.

    Best
    rc
     
  9. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    NO!! dont bend yer coaster arm! no need to it fits my cranny just fine! you bend it too much and it wont reach the bracket that wraps around the frame as they already are short.. again it fits just fine with dist cap removed and replace with a rubber o-ring
     
  10. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    also the sprocket can be either way. dish in or out... i have built 6 bikes of diffrent types to date and have had to use manny diffrent methods of mounting them. the kit is "Universal" and can be adapted to fit any witch way it will work safely...IMO
    i will say thet one side is "prettyer" but im not a show and no go kinda guy.. reverse it if you want the chain to rub the tire.... leave it if you want it to work...ide pull out one of those rubbers fron the inside and source a thin piece for the outside. i just traced the ragjoint to the rubber sheet and cut it out. im a mechanic for a city fleet and used stret sweepr rubbers. strong and reinforced...
     
  11. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    coaster brakes are ok... just think of the old board track racers that had no brakes. they jist had a kill switch to slow down!! thats one of the things i love about the old bikes.... their scarry. thats the fun. lol
     
  12. flatblack

    flatblack New Member

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    Irebo, careful with your advice. I've had two instances that make brakes important. The stock coaster brake will fail and twist into a pretzel. You need to add some other form of braking. Some coasters are strong enough to last...not the Huffy turd. This is coming from my experience with a Cranny build.

    Donkey, your rag joint is on wrong. The spokes must be sandwiched in between the two rubber pieces. Your chain will rub the spokes as well as causing added stress on them causing failure. You will need to do the dust cap mod and bend you coaster brake arm in a "z" shape to clear the bolt heads of the sprocket. Use the one sold on Pirate Cycles as a guide to how it should be bent. Throw it in a vice, use something as a cheater bar for leverage and bend in small increments at a time. Be patient and do it right.

    Let me know if you need anymore help. I've been threw my bike inside and out about 10x's now.
     
  13. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    Sorry all. it was a kinda sarcastic reply refering to the days of old and their crazy ways.. i do agree ...no gas bike should be coaster brake only unless you are going for that oldschool cool feel... and doin 30 with only a coaster is a personal decision, like swimming in the ocean....lol

    about the coaster arm, i was offering my opinion because he seems new to bike building and is being fed a lot of info on one specific part and befor he jumped in with both feet and bent the arm
    Picture 016a1a.JPG

    ( witch mine did not need at all.. no rubbing ect..)


    if you use the dust cap that tiny piece of metal isnt strong enuf for the torque you will be putting on it....
    im curious from other huffy cranbrook builders.. any one have to bend the arm?? and why?
    i did not and have about 120 miles in it and its fine... perfect in fact..

    i ride 20 miles a day after work from marina ca to pacific grove ca, about 20 or 22 miles round trip...

    no problems for me just smiles! also just trying to help....
     
    #13 IreBo, Jul 29, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2011
  14. flatblack

    flatblack New Member

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    No dust cap means dust will collect in a bearing that isn't meant to go 30mph. You may want to find one that you can put on.
     
  15. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    its called an o ring....... i replaced the dust cap with it, and it seals dust from the bearings. wish i had a pic so you understand... the dust cap inhibits the sprocket from functioning properly... seriously.
     
  16. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    #16 IreBo, Jul 29, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2011
  17. IreBo

    IreBo New Member

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    this is a 97 trek VW frame, top mounted bmx bars, and marzoci forks. rides like a dream. i call it the

    Trail Bandit !

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    finally was able to post a few pics
     
    #17 IreBo, Jul 29, 2011
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2011
  18. riminicat

    riminicat New Member

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    IreBo, which bolts did you replace with allen bolts? I've never done this before, but reading your post I'll think I'll go get some to be on the safe side.
     
  19. donkeyman2341

    donkeyman2341 New Member

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    Good news on the cranny front! My uncle was able to get the screw out enough to put new ones in. So the engine is now officially mounted.

    [​IMG]

    As for the rear sprocket, my biggest concern is chain clearance. The way I have it setup now, the chain actually clears the frame and tire pretty well. But, according to others, I have the sprocket on wrong. So...my question is if I throw one of the rubber stoppers back onto the other side of the spokes, I lose not only my coaster brake, but my chain clearance as well. AHHH! Can someone enlighten me on this??

    The other thing is my chain seems too long. As you can kind of see from this pic, its sitting very low. Even when I just placed the tensioner on the bike with my hand, it seems too long. The bottom part of the chain hits the top part before its anywhere near tight enough. Are people shortenging their chain?? And if I do shorten it, can I just make it the correct length and not worry about the tensioner?

    [​IMG]

    Sorry for all the questions, just tryin to make sure I do this right. Thanks.
     
  20. kevyleven007

    kevyleven007 Active Member

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    Yes,You have to shorten the chain.You have your sprocket on right but you need the dust cap.What you do is cut some of it off so it will fit.Yes you can run it without a chain tensioner.And,you will need to get a better back wheel latter but that should work for awile.These kits always have something wrong with them if thats the worst of you problems you got lucky!
     

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