Almost ready to fire it up..

Nomad

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Aug 4, 2008
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Well, I got my Boygofast kit yesterday and proceeded to install it. I will admit there is a "learning curve" to installing one of these motors. My bike has a 1 1/2" lower tube which presented a problem for me, I used many tips that I read on this forum, such as using a chain in the gas tank to clean it, the front mount I made is similar to one I saw on here, and may eventually change it to one more efficient. Tomorrow I will attempt to fire it up, and I'll pick up the pieces that fall off :)

It was fun assembling it, but at times a little frustrating too. I figure the next one will be quicker and easier, I have a few bolts and nuts with washers that I have no idea where they are supposed to go. As expected the instruction manual us useless, But I have no problem figuring out where things are supposed to go (except for those bolts and nuts). LOL...
I will post a follow up after I start it and will no doubt have questions for "help me".....

Regards
Bob

P.S. thanks to all who posted the tips that I
found so helpful..
 

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Nomad

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Aug 4, 2008
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IT RUNS!!!... Kinda rough though, i mixed a little 20-1 mix. I guess I didn't clean the tank very well lots of black soot running through some water too ( i rinsed with soapy water) I purge it when I see it. All in all it's a fun thing, I will "fine tune" the components as I use it. One thing I haven't found a place for is a skinny spring about 1/8" in diameter 4" long, it came in a pkg with the clutch cable spring, can anyone clue me in as to what that's for?. Also my muffler is just slightly in the way of my pedal crank (rubs) I need to bend it to the right, (what's the best way to do this?)... Thanks, Bob...

Pics later...
 

jasonh

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Jun 23, 2008
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There are 2 springs for the clutch system. The larger one fits over the outer cable and kind of shields it from the motor heat. The smaller one goes between the clutch arm and the adjuster screw over the bare cable. Not 100% sure, but I don't think it's actually necessary. I still have mine though, so maybe someone else can chime in.
 

Nomad

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Aug 4, 2008
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thanks for the info jasonh, I hope this hobby isin't going to be a "fix it all the time" kinda hobby. This evening I took my bike out for a short ride and the "fargin master link" gave way and the chain wrapped around the rear sprocket and put some gouges in the outside surface of the disc. I remember reading somewhere that someone doesn't use a masterlink, but instead just puts the chain together with a solid link. I didn't think the master link with the kit felt all that secure, I guess I should have listened to my "gut"... anyway fix it tomorrow, any recommendations on chains and links would be welcome and appreciated.

thanks
Bob
 

NunyaBidness

Active Member
Jun 29, 2008
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I use a #41 chain from Tractor Supply Company. any place that sells these kinds of chains will probably have the 41. I also do not use a master link. The pins in the links are a press fit, if you don't press it all the way out you can press it back in. I've found this to work a lot better for me.
 

Nomad

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Aug 4, 2008
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NunyaBidness, Thanks for the info. I'll hit the local Tractor Supply store, and fix this chain permanently..
 

Nomad

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I was at the TRactor supply store and was going to buy a #41 chain but i compared to a few links of my original chain and it was noticably smaller, I think the kit chain must be a heavier duty, anyone have any input on this?...
Thanks..
 

Bikeguy Joe

Godfather of Motorized Bicycles
Jan 8, 2008
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I have yet to have a problem with the stock chain other than some loosening while breaking in.

#41 looks different, but fits our sprockets fine. Stronger too.
 

Nomad

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Thanks for that info Bikeguy Joe, I used alot of your tips on this build, even printed out the long one about changing studs, using at least nailpolish on the threads.. etc, thanks... that's good stuff.... My new cologne seems to be 20-1 "mix" ... I don't think the ladies like it though... Used to use Hoppes #9.... they didn't like that either.... :) ;)