Advice or help for first build throttle/ carb issues.

B

Blue Ono

New Member
Hello everyone.
I'm looking for some sage wisdom and advice. I am in the process of finishing out my first build. Wally World Schwinn Delmar with a Stinger SD 80cc kit.
No real issues for the build, I poured over the Site and gleaned as much as I could to correct problems before they started. I had a damaged breather cover, that took $2.50 to fabricated a new one.
My problem-the throttle stays at wide open, can't get it to idle.
I fired it up to start the break in and off in race I went. Throttle was completely open and I made it about a block before I could kill the engine. Corrected the choke and started out again. Same thing- engine was racing wildly, the kill switch was no good, and I had to kill the engine. Made it to the house and the tire was blown(I didn't use the slime I bought). So off for parts I went, new tube and kill switch.
I reset the throttle and gave it another go same issues, any advice?

photos included I hope.
 

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I myself am a newbie to this game but I had the exact same issue... I found it to be an air leak at the intake gasket... not sure if that helps or not but it does sound exactly like my issue! good lucK
 
Welcome to THE Forum, Your carb slide is in wrong! It has a grove in it. Turn it 180. There is a little brass tit on one side of the carb body. you can see it by the choke lever. (c)
 
Quote, Saddletramp: "There is a little brass tit on one side of the carb body. "

Can we say that here? :)
Tom
 
Well, brass tits are a mechanical term in this case. I've seen brass statuary that has brass t**s but that's not mechanical. Neither is having a pair of brass b***s but having a pair of brass balls on your engines' governor is perfectly alright.


I'll not get into bastard files ;)
 
Ok, I think I am seeing it little brass guide on the inside, acts as a guide. Ok, then the carb body is to move freely up down inside the tube? I could barely get it back it. Should I brush out or lube the housing to free it up?
 
Nougat-And the male and female butt connectors.
are you referring to the electrical system?
if so that I sorted out and soldered it all down.
 
If the little brass part is not in all the way, Take a small screw driver, and Gently push it in from the outside of the carb. :)
 
Blue Ono said:
And before I forget my manners, Thank you! Everyone's input is awesome.
Click to expand...
Blue, we apologize. We were just having some fun at your expense. Don't take it wrong.

As for the slide in the carb; the long slot goes to the right side as you're looking down at the carburetor. The short slot goes to the left. The long slot is a guide to keep the slide (barrel) from rotating. The short slot is where the idle speed adjustment screw engages to set your idle speed. It can, with some effort be installed 180 degrees out which will cause a condition like what you described.
Lubrication is not necessary. It will be lubed by the oil in your fuel mix.
Get back to us with what you find.
Tom
 
One more thing... The large cap on the top of the carb that holds the slider in... Only tighten it 'hand tight', don't use any pliers. Over tightening it can warp the carb body & cause the slider to stick.
 
Thanks everyone. It took some time but finally went in and that did it.
On to the break in.

Next question, it'll be quick. It has been 20 yrs., since I have use a 2stroke. I don't remember it being the cleanest engine. see the photo- is the oil build up normal from the high ratio mix needed for break in or is it an issue with the gaskets?
 

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cool, like to true up the back of a hand plane, that would ensure a clean seal. Thanks again. I'll have to try that as soon as I off work.
 
Well, Thanks for everyones help. In the end I made a run for gasket seal, and paper. Once I opened the head up- I could see all the pride of craftsmanship. The top gasket wasn't seating, so I cleaned the spurs, and sanded the head. From there I sealed the gaskets and all is right in the world.
 
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