A WHITE WIRE SOLUTION!!!!! Finally

A

abeemanator

New Member
So today I was messing around with my bike, a few days ago i found a 12 volt fog light for $2 at a second hand store, new in package, I went down to the auto parts store and bought a 6 volt bulb. I was dissapointed when i realized that I could not run the 6volt lamp off of the white wire. So i decided to take a ride with the voltmeter and kill the bike as i was riding and see the voltage. How? I have an ignition switch that disconnects the blue wire so the electricity is not going any where. So i got my bike to top speed, checked the voltage with the ignition on and it was 8.2 volts AC, I disconnected the CDI and BAM a solid 13 volts. But this gets better, with the headlight connected, when i would kill the ignition, i got light, and some nice bright light, until I turned the ignition on, then the light shut off and i was going again. (The whole time the CDI was off I was coasting, and the engine turning over)

So what I want to do is a dual magneto and magnet setup, using the stock magneto for the CDI only and the second one for lights/accessories only. What are your thoughts, or try it yourself. I will try to post some pics and a video when I get some cash to buy the parts, Im 16 and jobless (Hopefully not for long) an have to spend my own money on my daily commuter. zpt
 
abeemanator said:
So today I was messing around with my bike, a few days ago i found a 12 volt fog light for $2 at a second hand store, new in package, I went down to the auto parts store and bought a 6 volt bulb. I was dissapointed when i realized that I could not run the 6volt lamp off of the white wire. So i decided to take a ride with the voltmeter and kill the bike as i was riding and see the voltage. How? I have an ignition switch that disconnects the blue wire so the electricity is not going any where. So i got my bike to top speed, checked the voltage with the ignition on and it was 8.2 volts AC, I disconnected the CDI and BAM a solid 13 volts. But this gets better, with the headlight connected, when i would kill the ignition, i got light, and some nice bright light, until I turned the ignition on, then the light shut off and i was going again. (The whole time the CDI was off I was coasting, and the engine turning over)

So what I want to do is a dual magneto and magnet setup, using the stock magneto for the CDI only and the second one for lights/accessories only. What are your thoughts, or try it yourself. I will try to post some pics and a video when I get some cash to buy the parts, Im 16 and jobless (Hopefully not for long) an have to spend my own money on my daily commuter. zpt
Click to expand...

If you are unable to make your own, you could buy one.

12V Mini-Gen With Switch For Motorized Bicycle Lighting - eBay (item 400109306480 end time Nov-10-10 00:13:52 PST)

Or use the white wire and a diode in conjunction with a 6v battery to run your 6v light. Either way, 6v or 12v, it will not work well without a battery.
 
I do have a battery (2 7.2 volt hooked up in parallel) but I would like to know what type of diode to use, Ive used a silicon rectifier one time. I have a DCC train controller that broke, and it has 4 diodes in it, and it is made to withstand 16vac I think. and how should they be hooked up?
 
abeemanator said:
I do have a battery (2 7.2 volt hooked up in parallel) but I would like to know what type of diode to use, Ive used a silicon rectifier one time. I have a DCC train controller that broke, and it has 4 diodes in it, and it is made to withstand 16vac I think. and how should they be hooked up?
Click to expand...

One of those model train power diodes would probably work. I usually use these:

3A Barrel Diodes - RadioShack.com

The 7.2v battery voltage is a little too high for the white wire. It may get some charge, but even the 6v battery pulls very low charge currents. The 7.2v battery will charge even slower if at all. Use a digital voltmeter to see if the battery voltage rises when you run the motor.

GROUND-----(-)BATTERY(+)------|<(DIODE)------WHITE WIRE
 
It worked as it should, but it was not enough of a charge to charge the battery, unless I disconnected the ignition, then it worked perfect. So now I know how to keep the battery charged if I build a dual magneto/rotor setup.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top