6 volt lights for motorized bicycles

Discussion in 'Motor Bicycle Safety And Stolen Motorized Bicycle ' started by aquarianmonkey, Oct 5, 2009.

  1. aquarianmonkey

    aquarianmonkey New Member

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    I have been reading about the white wire on the mag for lights hav'nt tryed it but found a 6 volt genenerator that mounts in the engine. I got it from Wonderful Creations off of ebay. I also found a 6 volt rectafier regulator off ebay. I hav'nt installed these yet but will send updates when I do. The mini-gen was $42 with shiping the reg and wire harness was $40 and the sla batt was a little over $30. I bought a bullet light set to run. I am currently gutting the headlight and instaling a 6 volt led light that I had hanging around and will use the eng kill switch as the light switch since I you a toggle on the ground side of cdi as a kill switch I hope when it's done it will look sharp and bright. and hope to post some pics of the finished project..trk
     

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  2. jonyoon21

    jonyoon21 New Member

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    Sounds like a great idea. I've been thinking about doing something like that myself. I just ordered the same generator the other day and hope to hook it up to some sort of battery pack that then connects to a switch then to a lighting system. I'm not too great with electronics but yea, something I hope to accomplish.

    When it is done, let us know how it turns out.
     
  3. MaxPower

    MaxPower New Member

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    I'm curious to know know what kind of performance you get from the light and the engine. I've been contemplating buying a huge rechargeable flood light to mount on my bike.
     
  4. aquarianmonkey

    aquarianmonkey New Member

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    When you install it push a lead wire through the front of the grommet into the eng. Then solder it to the gen. wire than pull trough. It's the easyest way to get the wire trough. You need to have a rectifier regulator to have it hooked to a bat. because it produces 6 volt A.C.
    The engine is not effected since the gen is only using the magnet in the eng.I run L.E.D.s so it's what it is. will post pics soon .
     
  5. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    Aquari,
    I've been useing 6v sla batt on my ride for quite some time. I can get 7-8 hrs. with no recharge system. Right now I just recharge over night. Guess that I should recharge(trickle 250ma.) from the w-wire. using a diode and current limiting resistor. However it's pretty easy just to plug in when I put it away.
    I use a 7-1/2V 300 ma. bulb in a fog light housing. I also have a 56 led light mounted in case I should loose the primary light from vibration(haven't yet 5Mos.). I also have brake and t-signals hooked up to the batt.
     

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  6. matukash

    matukash New Member

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    Search in this forum 500 lumen light under $10..

    It works great and it has a lot of power...drn2.duh.brnotdnut
     
  7. 2door

    2door Moderator
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    I'm curious how you plan to use the kill switch for a light switch. The kill button is a normally open momentary switch. That means when you push the button it closes the circuit for as long as you hold the button but opens it when released. Not what you want for a light switch. A single throw, single pole toggle would be a better choice.
    Tom
     
  8. momentummotorgroup

    momentummotorgroup New Member

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    it'd be great to see a wiring diagram/parts list for this lighting system you've got, particularly one wired with that diode and current limiting resistor. I think that's something we could all use here in Michigan, as all motorized vehicles here apparently have to have turn signals and brake lights..
     
  9. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    Momentum,
    I wired my system on the fly and didn't make a sketch. However I will draw one up and send it to you.

    I am working on a new design that I think will be the ultimate lighting, turn and brake system.
    Of course keeping it simple and cheap to build is always my goal.
    The only good thing good about winter is: Time to tinker around!
     
  10. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    6 Volt lighting circuit. In the drawing you will see "Headlight", this is a incandesant center light. That is only used under special conditions(rain,snow or other national emergency).
    The LED lights are 21 Leds each. Their are four of these, two on the front h-bars, near the grips and two outboard on the rear. The front ones run all 21 leds and bilnk off for turns(I use them both daytime and night).
    The rear lights use 9 of the 21 leds for running lights that blink off for turns. The remaining 13 leds function as brake lights.
    The 21 Led light units (4) cost $4 ea. including shipping.
    The brake sw is mounted on the dual brake lever.


     

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  11. momentummotorgroup

    momentummotorgroup New Member

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    awesome! thanks for posting the diagram!
     
  12. Scotchmo

    Scotchmo New Member

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    I have a similar circuit on my bike. Rather than using the NE555 and two 6v relays, I use a 6v LED turn signal flasher designed for a motorcycle. It is a little pricier option ($21.50 on eBay) but simpler. I also use off the shelf 6v multi-LED automotive turn signal, tail and brake light bulbs (Superbrightled). Again, simpler but probably more expensive. I’m using dual element LED bulbs on the front for turn signal/running lights. I like your arrangement and may try something like it in the future.

    One thing you can do to simplify the circuit is to remove the 24 ohm resistor from the charging circuit. The coil that the white wire hooks up to has a couple ohms resistance on it’s own. Additional resistance is not needed, especially with an 8ah battery. I use a 1.3ah 6v lead acid battery. I ran tests with and without a zener regulator. Either way, it never overcharged the battery. An 8ah lead acid battery can easily burn off the entire output of the white wire with no harm. If you are worried about overcharging the battery, the zener would be a better option. Additional resistance wastes charging power before the battery is fully charged. The zener regulator won’t waste anything until the battery is full. In my experience, neither is needed with the HT white wire/rectifier diode.
     
  13. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    I used the 24 ohm in the charging circuit to keep from overloading the white wire when the battries are flat. All of the relay & components fit inside the small lights.
    I had looked at some of the flasher based designed circuits and auto bulbs then decided that I am just to cheap. Went all solid state on one bike about $25 total cost. Then built this equivelant circuit to use the same cheap lights about $30 for this circuit. Of course it is all false economy as the labor is high(but fun).

     
  14. Scotchmo

    Scotchmo New Member

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    The white wire puts out less than 1 amp. Even if you short the diode to ground, you won’t overload the white wire. So no need for the resistor.
     
  15. tommyboy1442

    tommyboy1442 New Member

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    guys check out these lights,im running these on my bike,bill can make any lenght you need wires,and he can make with brake light switch this way you have tail/brake light. 5mm or 10mm led. and resonably priced. runs off 9volt that can be mounted underneath seat or wherever you wish. just thought you guys might find these kits useful.....Bills custom rc lighting - 5mm light kits page 1
     
  16. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    Scotchmo,
    I have seen many times on this fourm that to much load on the white wire will effect start/running this is what I meant from "overloading". I do not know this firsthand, due to weather and indoor storage(tank-lines-filter purged) I will not be able to check for myself.

    This setup uses the dual head lamps as the turn signals. Not sure how I would incorperate a mechanical flasher and still have the headlights working. Perhaps an additional switch. However if it isn't broken don't fix it!
     
  17. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    Tomboy,
    Lights look good! Are the front lamps good enough for head lamps or do you need aux lighting for night/bad weather?
    Would also be good to incorperate turn signals.
     
  18. Scotchmo

    Scotchmo New Member

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    True if you try to use the white wire as AC or full wave recified. You and I are using a ½ wave rectifier. For your battery charge circuit, you should use the ½ cycle that does not affect ignition. It is easy to test:

    Hook the rectifier diode to the white wire. Start the motor and short the other end of the diode to ground. If the motor misfires and dies, reverse the diode and try again. The motor should keep running with the short. It may slow down just a little but that is a result of the load on the alternator. And then you are free to use 100% of the rectified output of the white wire. So no need for the resistor.
     
  19. Russell

    Russell Active Member

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    Scotchmo,
    I'll give it a try when the weather gets better. What is your thought on the SLA gasses being boiled off due to over charging from the alternator?
     
  20. Scotchmo

    Scotchmo New Member

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    A fully charged 7ah SLA battery can accept a 7ma charge current indefinitely without damage. It can accept higher overcharge currents for shorter periods. An SLA battery typically can withstand a minimum 5psi of gas pressure, though some like the Hawker have been reported to withstand up to 50psi. Under pressure, the gases are given a chance to recombine, rather than escape.

    If you are still worried about it, you can add a simple zener regulator. I have found that it is not needed. Float voltage is about 6.9v for an SLA and gassing voltage is about 7.5v. Even my 1.3ah SLA never overcharges since the white wire spends only a small portion of it’s output cycle over either of these voltages. It is better to err on the side of overcharging rather than undercharging. The battery will still outlast your engine.

    Do this test. Charge your battery fully. Hook up a digital voltmeter to the battery and drive around for as long as you want. Does it ever get up to 7.5v? Does it even get warm? Not mine.
     

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