Well to make it simple, if you up the voltage, mor current will flow through the motor, the maximum current flowing at zero rpm through individual sets of windings for longer period of time than if spun up to speed where the heated time per winding will be less, along with the effect that electric motors have of creating an increasing reactance with increasing motor speed, which is kinda like dynamic electrical resistance which limits the current flow and therefore the heat, also the maximum rpms a motor will spin.
Basically you would want to find out what type of batteries are used in the pack, and order another one, I suspect they are 7Ah AGM batteries in the box under the seat, and then open the loop and add another one in series to make the 3x12v batts into 4x12v batts for 48v, which raises the current achievable through the motor at full throttle (if the controller can handle it), and therefore the raising maximum torque and rpm. I suggest doing some basic introductory reading on electric motors and bikes, and picking up an electrical circuits textbook, which will have more than enough info for hot rodding an electric. You have to be careful when you exceed the manufacturer's specs on battery voltage, you can toast controllers and motors with the increase in current through every bottleneck in the system's wiring, which can cause heat, and if the motor is brushed, wear those out quicker because they tend to spark.
If you'd like, check out the Razor MX650 mods thread over at Pocketbikeplanet forum, I documented my trials and tribulations overvolting, and then completely reconfiguring my electric motard so it makes torque and not noxious smoke and parts reciepts, lol.