4G T drive bearing conversion

I did my conversion this morning, worked out perfect. I am extremely pleased with the results, alot quieter at idle, almost no clutch ring, and the clutch bell doesn't wobble like it always did with the bushing.
 
moonerdizzle said:
I did my conversion this morning, worked out perfect. I am extremely pleased with the results, alot quieter at idle, almost no clutch ring, and the clutch bell doesn't wobble like it always did with the bushing.
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Fantastic isn't it? It should have come from the factory like this huh? Glad it worked out for you.
 
Hi cobrafreak, when I got my 4G trans I was slow to set it up. Went to hardware store got allen hardware, I have a 2.5" rear tire I used washers to shim 4G out 1/8" that also made me flip the clutch disc side reversed(puller plots face inboard) used a thick bronze washer and thin stainless steel washer,,,,,then things were smooth and my belt also was perfectly centered on the bell(face drilled to breathe better) it doesn't rub the bell face or the boss edge. My 80 tooth pulley welded the stupid one way out of the pulley but, the 80 tooth has a wooble to it.

Ok anyway my clutch bell when it was made they didn't get the 20 tooth pulley dead center with the bell so it's not even concentric as the clutch disc idle's and goes around without touching the bell.

I like the bearing modification and an apt to try it, But since my 4G has so many issues with things not being true should I just get a fresh 4G and then do the checks make shure the new 4G is good to use and then do the bearing mod.

or do you think the EZ Matic trans would be a good way to just get around all the trouble of the time it takes to do this. I have to have my bike running for work everyday I can't afford any down time other that a night to switch parts out. I think the EZ Matic trans had a bearing for the pulley aswell as a bigger radius pulley too.

V-belt vs. notched

Thanks for the read.
 
Sinistar said:
or do you think the EZ Matic trans would be a good way to just get around all the trouble
I think the EZ Matic trans had a bearing for the pulley aswell as a bigger radius pulley too.

V-belt vs. notched.
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If your 4G is for the Huasheng with the clutch in the side of the motor
it will not work with a Q Matic as it has a tapered shaft.

The front 2" pulley on the Q Matic goes on the 5/8" motor shaft so no
bearing is needed.
 
if the pully wobble isnt bad use it, but if it is pretty bad, buy a new one way bearing, and leave in the plastic bearing spacer when you weld it.that keeps the bearings evenly spaced out, also do a series of tack welds while hopping around, just like tightening lug nuts on a car you want the heat to be spaced out so as it cools off and contracts it pulls its self straight and even with out warpage. as for your clutch pulley being as little off, it happens. the pulley is only press fitted to the clutch drum, tap it with a hammer till its centered and fully inserted into the clutch drum, then do a couple tack welds on the inside of the drum to hold it. if you dont there is a good chance the pulley will seperate from the clutch bell. it is fixable if that happens, but it sucks when your out riding, i had that happen to me when i first got my 4g.
 
Yes I have the Huasheng it has the keyed shaft. I will check on the Q matic further. I think what I may do is get a new jackshaft and a 100 tooth pulley new clutch bell and a new clutch and rebuild the 4G and make it better.

Cheers
 
you dont have to rebuild it, think of it like a china doll, theres a few things youhave to do to it to make it more reliable
 
all i did with mine is weld the pulley to the clutch bell, weld the bearing, and now this bushing conversion and i got well over 1200 miles on it so far this summer. I did end up doing a bearing delete for the one way bearing at work cause i got bored, but you can also pack the bearing with jb weld and it will be fine, seen it done on here allready
 
I've got my one way bearing welded. What did you do when you welded your pulley to your clutch bell could you show a picture I don't understand why that would need welding since it's "press fitted". I'm gonna do the bearing conversion because I'm tired of how loud it is.

cheers
 
Sinistar said:
I've got my one way bearing welded. What did you do when you welded your pulley to your clutch bell could you show a picture I don't understand why that would need welding since it's "press fitted". I'm gonna do the bearing conversion because I'm tired of how loud it is.

cheers
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you should weld it because the press fit isnt all that strong, the pulley tends to pop off while riding after a while. happened to me and to several other poeple who have 4g trannys on here. all i did is take a hammer at tap the pully back into the clutch bell after it popped off while riding to work. then i flipped it over so you can see the inside of the clutch bell and the little bit of the pully that protrudes, then i fired up the trusty tig welder at 45 amps DCEN and did one tack weld, then i tapped it down with a hammer to make sure the pully was still flush and even, then tacked directly across of the first tack. you have to tack weld it in a star pattern or the heat will warp the clutch drum and pull the pulley to one side making every thing lopsided. i ended up almost fully welding around the pulley by doing a series of tacks around it.
 
Moonerdizzle, Right on I see what your saying now I wasn't concentrating enough. Do you have the huasheng 4 stroke or are you 2 stroke? I haven't had anything fail that bad yet but I may just try and get the Bearing conversion parts and do the other things so it's better for durable quiet riding and get a new clutch and notched belt.

Cheers.
 
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Same here I love my 4 but I had a 2 smoker till I put a 4 stroke briggs muffler and burned it up. I gotta get those bearings and buy my clutch and bell and belt. But so far it's doing me good everyday. I used a dual brake thumb atv hand controll and thats about it. it's great.


Cheers

.flg.
 
The_Aleman said:
I finally got my 4G bearing conversion done yesterday, although I had to get the man himself out here to do it for me lol

I lack the right tools to do the job, and after watching cobrafreak do the mod, I doubt I could have done nearly as good a job as he did. My Huasheng has quite a few miles and a very beat-up PTO shaft with a banged-up keyway, causing a sloppy clutch. Cobrafreak resurfaced the whole PTO shaft using plumbing putty, made it practically like new, and then finished the bearing conversion.

The result is my engine is now much quieter than it used to be - no more of that 4G ring at idle. My drivetrain is actually quieter now with straightpipe than it was with muffler installed. I still have some work to do before my bike's done being overhauled (it's been down for a little over a month) but I'm looking forward to cruising with motorvation again!

Thanks for your hard work John, and thanks for coming up with this excellent mod! :D
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It was fun hanging out with you Caleb. I'm glad you like the bearing mod. Thanks for the Guinness Ale :)
 
Cobrafreak,
Thanks for doing the R & D on this great update. I bought the 10 pack of bearings from A Main Hobbies you recommended. Super fast shipping!
I used an electric grinder and had that thing turned down in no time at all.
What did you do at the end of the shaft where there's a void space inside the last couple of bearings? The steel bushing that went inside of oil lite bushing used to take up that space.
Also, is the large washer outside the pulley spaced out so the pulley doesn't walk off the shaft?
Thanks again!
 
cdavid67 said:
Cobrafreak,
Thanks for doing the R & D on this great update. I bought the 10 pack of bearings from A Main Hobbies you recommended. Super fast shipping!
I used an electric grinder and had that thing turned down in no time at all.
What did you do at the end of the shaft where there's a void space inside the last couple of bearings? The steel bushing that went inside of oil lite bushing used to take up that space.
Also, is the large washer outside the pulley spaced out so the pulley doesn't walk off the shaft?
Thanks again!
Click to expand...

You still use the steel bushing, you just need to size it to fit inside the bearings and to slightly poke out the end, because you have to put a washer on the outside of the whole thing to keep the bell housing from coming off. When I say slight i mean slight. When you tighten everything up you want to be able to move the clutch bell outward and inward about 1/16" to 1/8", the smaller the better. You don't want it tight because that will cause problems. You will put a drop of oil on this washer so it wont overheat. Just one drop. I should have taken a whole series of pictures but I didn't and for that I'm sorry. Enjoy your new clutch because it is going to be so different from what you are used to you will think it's not the same engine.
 
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