4 Stroke EZM Silentdrive Boardtrack Attempt

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by weekend-fun, Oct 1, 2010.

  1. azbill

    azbill Active Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2008
    Messages:
    3,367
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi Sam,,,
    silverbear has a nice thread going on in the 4cycle forum on how to determine where your mounting holes will need to be
     
  2. weekend-fun

    weekend-fun New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2009
    Messages:
    1,001
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi bill,

    thanks for the info. Didn't know he had one!
     
  3. weekend-fun

    weekend-fun New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2009
    Messages:
    1,001
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi all, I have a urgent question.
    Today I tried to start up my engine, put it wouldn't catch. I can't think of anything that might be wrong. I have had it under a tarp since my workshop is exposed to the elements, so I guess it could be internal rusting. Any ideas?


    thanks

    Sam
     
  4. weekend-fun

    weekend-fun New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2009
    Messages:
    1,001
    Likes Received:
    0
    Sorry I haven't posted lately, I've been at my dad's house.

    Anyways, I'm pretty sure the engine wasn't starting b/c I took off the ignition switch. Right now I really need to widen the drive's mounting hole so it can be bolted on.

    Just wanted to give a quick update!


    Sam
     
  5. Quenton Guenther

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2008
    Messages:
    687
    Likes Received:
    0
    hi weekend-fun,

    Not sure, but I think removing the switch will not stop the motor from firing. The switch actually grounds part of the ignition coil to stop it from firing. I just received one of the HF motors to use as the test motor for the new 2-speed, and removed all the switches, oil sensor, and extra wires. The motor does produce spark with everything removed. When I ground the long black wire [from the coil] the plug doesn't spark.

    Have fun,
     
  6. silverbear

    silverbear The Boy Who Never Grew Up

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Messages:
    8,191
    Likes Received:
    12
    Quenton,
    Can you tell what kind of juice the engine produces? What voltage and would it be enough to run a few LED lights?
    SB
     
  7. Quenton Guenther

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2008
    Messages:
    687
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi SB,

    Hopefully my schedule will allow me to "play" with the ignition in the very near future. I am sure the lead for the kill switch will produce some AC to work with.

    Guess it is time to mention that I also hold a degree in Electronics, and should be easy to arrive at a way to extract some "juice" from the ignition.

    Sadly time is problem, as EZM has managed to consume about 25 hours a day. Not complaining, as here it is November and we are still setting production records.

    Here is some information that may help others until I can devote more time to lighting.

    LED's use far less power than conventional bulbs. The wire for the kill circuit may produce some AC, but a diode should be used to stop the lights from killing the motor.

    The resistance of the HF kill circuit is 2.2 ohms to ground. The coil on the HF motor is 4.43 K ohms from ground.

    The resistance of the HS kill circuit is 1.5 ohms to ground. The coil on the HS motor is 5.1 K ohms from ground.

    The common 2-stroke stator [HT] is 2.5 ohms to ground at the white wire. The blue wire on the 2 stroke coil is 254 ohms. The 2 stroke ignition doesn't use the coil to fire the sparkplug but via an external coil.

    When magnets pass a coil, energy is produced. Honda GXH50, HS 142, and the HF motor all have magnets in the flywheel. All three motors can have additional coils placed near the rotating flywheel to produce additional power.

    If you have time, I can help you locate the extra power to run lights at minimum cost. As an example....... What if you took a HT stator, cut the ends of the center bar to fit the contour of the flywheel, mounted the stator to the motor. You would now have a 2.5 ohm tap and a 254 ohm tap to play with. Chances are the 254 ohm would be way too much, but who knows.

    It must be remembered the flywheel only has 2 magnets and it is a long way from each passing of the coil, whereas most alternators have many magnets passing the coils per revolution.

    Maybe the answer is using the blue wire from a modified HT coil to make up for the lack of magnets in the flywheel and arrive at enough AC to run LED lights.

    Whatever the solution, it must remain within a small budget, because there are a lot of cheap lighting systems for bicycles on the market.

    You can attach an AC meter to the black wire while the motor is running and see the amount of AC available. It will be sometime before I actually mount & start the motor, as I planned to use it for the 2-speed drive testing. Don't use an amp meter, as it will most likely draw too much and shut the motor off.

    There ya go, lots of information to work with, let us know if you discover an inexpensive solution.


    PS, I noticed the idler pivot bolt will need to be re-located on the Q-Matic to avoid hitting a "boss" at the base of the HF motor. We will look into a different location for the arm for the HF motor in future production drives.

    Have fun,
     
    #27 Quenton Guenther, Dec 5, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2010
  8. scotto-

    scotto- Custom 4-Stroke Bike Builder

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2010
    Messages:
    6,530
    Likes Received:
    6
    Quenton, I've got a nice plexiglass template I made for re-locating the idler pivot bolt and spring for the Kawasaki FE 120 4-stroke and I'm sure will meet the clearance issues of the HF motor as well. I'll send you a copy of one if you'ld still like as we talked about this before.

    Cheers,
    scotto-

    [​IMG]
     
    #28 scotto-, Dec 5, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2010
  9. weekend-fun

    weekend-fun New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2009
    Messages:
    1,001
    Likes Received:
    0
    If it wasn't the switch than its probably low oil level. I don't believe I put much in.

    Thanks
    Sam
     
  10. silverbear

    silverbear The Boy Who Never Grew Up

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Messages:
    8,191
    Likes Received:
    12
    If the oil was low and the sensor wiring was still in place that would do it. Pretty important to get the oil in there, Sam. Treat it right and that motor will go for a long time...
    SB
     
  11. silverbear

    silverbear The Boy Who Never Grew Up

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Messages:
    8,191
    Likes Received:
    12
    Quenton,
    Thanks for the information on the HF electrics. If we all give this some thought we can come up with ways to run lights off the motors, one way or another.
    SB
     
  12. Quenton Guenther

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2008
    Messages:
    687
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi Scotto,

    YES!, please send me anything that will aid in the relocation of the idler pivot bolt for other motors. We are currently working on the changes for production version #7 slated for the first quarter of 2011.

    Changes for version #7 already include a re-designed bearing support bracket for easier primary belt upgrades, and slightly longer mounting slots to increase the primary belt choices.

    The newly designed bearing carrier will be a 3 piece unit that will allow the primary belt change in much less time, and only a phillips screwdriver will be needed. The outer clutch support bracket will remain the same, and only the inner bracket will be changed. We will also offer the new bracket as an optional accessory if anyone wants to upgrade previous versions of the Q-Matic. As always any upgrades will fit earlier versions of the drive [backwards compatible].


    Have fun,
     

Share This Page