3 poo-poo exhausts? cranbrook

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frank66

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Jan 15, 2015
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im trying to get the correct poopoo pipe for a huffy cranbrook. i got the "fancy" and it doesnt fit. leaving i believe the wide tire pipe and the regular poopoo?

any know for sure what these fit please. im happy with what im seeing so far. im surprised these are not more popular.

thanks
 

GoreWound

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Dec 1, 2014
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I have no experience with the pipes, or bike, you've mentioned, but I just wanted to mention that a custom pipe is not too hard to make.

especially if you have the flange from a spare one to start with.
 

Davezilla

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Mar 15, 2014
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If you have access to a pipe bender you could just order the longest pipe available and make it fit, the pipe can be bent by capping off the ends and packing it with sand to prevent the pipe from kinking. The other alternative is to cut the bends out of the pipes your not going to use and weld up or even braze up a custom pipe out of the pieces... this will get you a good fit then just need to adjust the pipe's total length for best power at the rpm you intend to run it at. Straight pipes can perform very well when they're "tuned" to the right length. Expansion chambers still make the best power when properly tuned, but a straight pipe just the right length will surprise you how strong it cannmake the engine in that certain rpm range...
 

frank66

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Jan 15, 2015
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the good/bad/ugly review goes like this.


the good- its not heavy. lighter than stock. same weight as sbp and the banana mufflers. chrome looks nice! expansion chamber length is spot on and will be good power producer as i see it.

the bad-hmmm....

the ugly- doesnt fit any motorized bicycle on earth. must be for another machine like a moped or something. this is my only complaint.

------- it looks to need a 12 inch header which suits most builds.
 

GoreWound

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Dec 1, 2014
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if the pipe you have is too short or too long in a particular place it is super easy to fix that yourself, you can do it with a hacksaw and a blowtorch (and solder, and a length of tube)

just cut it in two where it's too short/long and put the pipe between the parts, then solder it back together like plumbing under your sink. (if it was too long, cut it in half, then remove the extra length you don't need) also the tube you buy needs to slip either perfectly inside or perfectly over the existing pipe, with about a half-inch of overlap on each side. you need it pretty snug, again just like plumbing from under your sink.
 

Davezilla

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Mar 15, 2014
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Pretty much right on about the plumbing comparison... There are a few simple rules that'll also help when doing slip fits... Some require welding or brazing, no big deal there, just weld or braze what's needed and you're good, for slip fits that are close to the eangie or where there's still a good amount of heat, the smaller diameter pipe should always be closest to the engine or the heat more importantly, then the next section slips over the header section, the header shouldn't slip over the next section because a good slip plus the heat expansion will make a leak free slip fit, loose enough to pull apart when the engine cools down, but tight and leak free once warmed up.

For making a small bend or to change the angle of a section of pipe where the length needs to remain the same, you can pie slice half way thru the section and then straight cut the rest of the way thru and then use the cutout piece on the opposite side, this will ensure there is no change in total length when making a bend, this is no big deal if only one bend is needed after the pipe is assembled, but if there's 5 or 6 bends needed, each 1" pie slice effectively makes the pipe's total lenght 1/2" shorter, but by cutting half way thru and putting the pie slice back on the other side, the pipe basically pivots on the centerline and doesn't lose any length.
I also prefer brazing the pipe where there are a lot of pre cut angles assembled to amke a band since each weld bead can protrude slightly into the pipe but when brazed, the brass typically fills the joint but won't sag into the pipe... unless you're a highly skilled thin metal welder and can keep the weld from protruding into the pipe where you can't see it. A braze joint is also typically smoother so it won't disturb the flow as much.
I also prefer to TIG weld the piping when brazing asn't practical because you can tig weld the pieces together without using filler wire whenever you weld up a slip fit where 2 pipes overlap by a small amount which will also ensure that no metal sags into the exhaust path restricting the flow.
 

frank66

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Jan 15, 2015
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canada
yea getting welded and pianted black on my dads bike.

i see the 3 models have diff silencers so i guess i did well to get this one. it has the longest expansion chamber of the 3.
 

ckangaroo70

Active Member
May 13, 2011
864
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Central Illinois
I have this one on mine. Didn't have to do any modifying to make fit, but one similar that I ordered and tried before did not fit. Think they probably all fit universally bad, but some worse then others I would imagine. Luck of the draw probably plays more into it then anything.
 

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mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
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Central Area of Texas
I have this one on mine. Didn't have to do any modifying to make fit, but one similar that I ordered and tried before did not fit. Think they probably all fit universally bad, but some worse then others I would imagine. Luck of the draw probably plays more into it then anything.
I just wanted to say, I really like your bike ckangaroo, very nice clean looking build.
 

2door

Moderator
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Sep 15, 2008
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Littleton, Colorado
Old handlebars are a good source of pipe for custom exhaust. Most are chrome, 7/8" diameter and have tight radius bends. TIG is the best way to stick the pieces together but you can use other methods.
I'd stay away from soft solder (plumbing stuff). Unless you really know what you're doing it won't hold and vibrations will crack your solder joint. It certainly won't work for a butt connection.

Tom
 

mapbike

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2010
5,502
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Central Area of Texas
I agree, handlebars do make good pipe for a small ID exhaust, I have do it myself, had and old set of ram horn type 10 speed bars I had kept since I was a teen and I cut them up for an exhaust, kinda wish I would have just kept them now since the exhaust I used them for turn3d out to be a bit small and reatrictive for what I wanted, but they do work real good.
 

fatdaddy

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May 4, 2011
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Nobody said "Silver solder" Regular soft solder will not work on a exhaust. I'm not real confident about silver solder for the exhaust either, but it's a lot harder than the regular stuff. I know silver works great for putting together an intake, I've made a couple of custom intakes and they turned out perfect. But there's not as much heat on the intake of course.
fatdaddy.usflg
 

Davezilla

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Mar 15, 2014
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Nobody said "Silver solder" Regular soft solder will not work on a exhaust. I'm not real confident about silver solder for the exhaust either, but it's a lot harder than the regular stuff. I know silver works great for putting together an intake, I've made a couple of custom intakes and they turned out perfect. But there's not as much heat on the intake of course.
fatdaddy.usflg
Dunno if I would trust silver solder on the header section where most the heat is but it's most likely strong enough at the muffler end if doing a lap type joint... I prefer tig welding when the metal is really thin but brazing is strong enough, still don't think I would trust a butt joint connection on the exhaust brazing it either but a lap joint would be plenty strong. I like the nickel/silver brazing rods for the exhaust since its really strong and can still be done with a mapp torch if needed...
I'm sure the silver solder on the intake side worked out really well since its plenty strong and no where near as much heat to deal with.
 

Davezilla

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Mar 15, 2014
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I like the idea about cutting up old handlebars to harvest the bends but the 7/8" diameter bars would be restrictive for most my engines... if one can get some junk Harley bars tho these are 1" diameter and some have some really tight bend radius.. there are usually sellers on ebay who have several sets for cheap... I get stuff from a seller named dead parts who usually has parts that are still usable but may need some help before roadworthy again, but that would be an easy way to get a few setsnof Harley bars on the cheap...
 

fatdaddy

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May 4, 2011
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Dunno if I would trust silver solder on the header section where most the heat is but it's most likely strong enough at the muffler end if doing a lap type joint... I prefer tig welding when the metal is really thin but brazing is strong enough, still don't think I would trust a butt joint connection on the exhaust brazing it either but a lap joint would be plenty strong. I like the nickel/silver brazing rods for the exhaust since its really strong and can still be done with a mapp torch if needed...
I'm sure the silver solder on the intake side worked out really well since its plenty strong and no where near as much heat to deal with.
I agree 100%, But someone suggested soldering the pipe together and I KNOW soft solder wont work, And only maybe silver solder.
fatdaddy.usflg