2 things - Chain and Carb

Sorry, the e-clip is on the needle that controls fuel flow as you twist the throttle, raising the clip will lean the mixture lowering the clip will richen it. wot stand for wide open throttle.
 
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Greg58 said:
Sorry, the e-clip is on the needle that controls fuel flow as you twist the throttle, raising the clip will lean the mixture lowering the clip will richen it. wot stand for wide open throttle.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks. The idle really did need adjustment though. It was dying too easy at idle.

Anyway, I think I'll break the 'Chinagurl' in before I mess with the carb anymore. The chain is actually perfectly fine now, it stopped threatening to come off at about mile 15.

So, there are a million different ways to break it in, but which one should people use? I've heard 'ride it hard' for 10-15 minutes at a time while constantly varying the throttle for 1 gallon of fuel.
 
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That is what I did, made a-lot of short runs on the first tank of fuel then started running longer as I felt o/k with the way the engine was performing.
 
I just ride to be honest, just no long trips until I feel things loosen up.

From what I've heard, to get everything to set you want two things.

1. Fluctuating/variating throttle.
2. High load.

So when I was setting my new rings I climbed a series of 3 hills with downhills between. Elevation increase of roughly 700ft, then idled down giving it small revs. I'm still setting them, and I plan to do it again later today.
 
DuctTapedGoat said:
I just ride to be honest, just no long trips until I feel things loosen up.

From what I've heard, to get everything to set you want two things.

1. Fluctuating/variating throttle.
2. High load.

So when I was setting my new rings I climbed a series of 3 hills with downhills between. Elevation increase of roughly 700ft, then idled down giving it small revs. I'm still setting them, and I plan to do it again later today.
Click to expand...

Great idea, but my carb is a cns2 and thus I can't get up hills very well, by the cns2 reputation, I'm surprised I can even get up inclines.

Well, I'm nearly at 1 gallon through, so the rings are where they will stay probably.

I pulled my spark plug and it there's a layer of black stuff that looks kinda wet. I'm not going to worry about it until I switch my fuel to 25:1, which is the normal fuel ratio after break-in according to Grubee, though I've heard on here to do 32:1.

What does it mean for your engine to 4-stroke and how do you know when it's doing it? I think mine might be 4-stroking because of my poorly adjusted carb.

This might be a silly question, but these 2-stroke plugs don't need to be gapped, do they?
 
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32:1 is the post break in ratio for dino oil, 40:1 is the ratio for synthetic.

You can gap it all you want - there's a thread on it somewhere around here.
 
New topic, a knocking sound at higher RPM and what sounds like a clutch issue.

Here's a video of what I think is the clutch noise. My camera started cutting out at higher speeds, so I couldn't get a good video of the knocking noise. You can clearly hear the pulsating high pitched noise in the video.

Never mind those things hanging off, my clutch cable snapped and I'll be removing my shifters.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cThQ9zUsx2M
 
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i have the same pos carb! :-||
but on mine where the screew goes threw the aluminum is snap off so i cant even get a seal but im jb welding it right now we will see how that goes but if that dont work then im just going to get a rt carb from thats dax herd really really good thing about it
 
otheracco ... I've got the same carb, and tried 8 different jet sizes and all the possible needle settings before finally trying some advise I got from another member on this site. Pull the black hose from the air filter off, leave it open to the air, and try the bike that way. When I did this the performance issue stopped, I went back to the stock needle setting, and the stock jet size, and was happy with everything.
 
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