I got my new tensioner with the bearing, now do I need to grease it before use or not. I was thinking, it might not help but it sure as heck couldn't hoit. Then again somebody here should know for sure.
Now see I thought that MM was a super thin oil. Thought that was the appeal of it. Thanks for setting me straight. I used it once in an engine with sludge to clean the oil holes in the block. Not sure it did any good though.
gotya, I thought it was thin but i see now.. As to the tensioner...yeah the one i got wasn't anything but the kit tensioner with a small bearing.
It was way more expensive than it was worth but then again it's a toy lol. I do like the one you showed I had a mountain bike for a while that I took to one speed with a coaster rear wheel. If I ever do it again, I'll change the crank and the rear wheel or go with a tensioner like the one in the picture... the coaster wheel has the advantage of a brake so you get to lose one of the brake handles to make room for the clutch handle.
Before I do another one, I'm going to look around for one with spring suspension. The bike I have now is light weight steel framed and it just shakes my teeth.
When and if mine seizes I will get the bearing one. I do keep my non-ballbearing tensioner slathered with synthetic grease and so far it is doing great. Oils mentioned seem to be too thin and without much AW/EP protection. HD motor oil at least will have some AW agents, but without a carrier it won't stay around long.
Anyways - after this last month+ I really finally feel I have my chain tension dialed in. It just takes patience and monkeying. Even if you take a link too many, you can re-pin it. And some bikes have more adjustment than first glance indicates.
Everybody swears by those tensioners with the bearings. I found the one i had to be garbage as well as the non bearing one. i think I would tighten the drive chain and tension the bike chain if I needed to tension one of them. Just use it as a chain guide since i don't pedal much.