Relay/Fusebox Best Practices?

That fuse box looks nice and will make for a clean install, I'd use it. and for the lights, I'd definitely use a relay to protect the switch and for the fuel pump I'd also run a relay and use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse just simply because if you're out somewhere and your fuel pump or ecu fuse blows, you're pretty much stuck unless you carry a spare. If you just run it at the track fuses will do just fine. I'm just really anal about certain electrical circuits because there's not much worse than being 5 or 10 miles from home and the fuel pump or efi fuse pops for no reason... Everythign else you can still get home. You can get aircraft style circuit breakers anywhere from 1/4 amp all the way to 100 amps or more and they're also nice and compact. Their prices are pretty much based on amperage but can be had for around $10 or so for a 2 to 5 amp breaker.
I've read thru your other post earlier and that looks like it's gonna be a sweet ride when you're done.

Jus' a FYI - any automotive style blade fuse box can be converted to breakers with no more then these, there's other breakers less costly but I've used the Bussmanns with great success many times & they've always worked well for me & BTW, the part number's suffix is it's amp rating (UCB-10 = 10a);

http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussmann-UCB-10-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B000Q0AVHQ


...ofc, having said that I've still not gotten around to replacing mine on the taddy, they're usually easily found at any auto parts place... just not near me it seems lol

Here's the taddy's relay, buss bar & fuse panel jus' as an example, right relay is for activating the 36v electric drive w/the 12v system's keyed switch, middle (round) is the LED blinker relay, the left is for the four stroke's electric starter switch - the lights are all low-amp LEDs & the 12v scooter horn is low draw as well so I didn't bother to relay those;

That fuse box looks great! Nice clean install... and I forgot about those thermal breakers, those will work just fine as well, they can't be reset manually but they'll get ya home once they cool down after tripping and they're about 1/3 the cost of the aircraft style breakers and can plug right into the fusebox without more modification, I like it, still much much better than a fuse for the fuel pump or efi.

Wow... the thing that was supposed to protect your curcuit and prevent a fire is what actually started it... Good thing you were able to get it home safely.
I do the same thing when wiring anything on my cars or bikes and go up a few gauge sizes to keep everything running cool and the 125% rule is definitely a good rule to follow as a minimum wire size, they do get rather hot when the circuit or components are running at max power.

You can use a potentiometer to reduce the power going to the fuel pump but like mentioned, use the 125% rule and get one that can handle more power than it'll have to control. So let's say figuratively that the pump needs 2 amps to run at full power, we multiply 2 amps times 12 volts, that gives us 24 watts, now that we know the pump is 24 watts, we're going to buy a potentiometer that can handle 30 watts, which will keet the potentiometer running cool. Now a 24 watt potentiometer might be hard to find or expensive and that's where a more solid state controller comes into play, usually thru a transistor or mosfet along with a decnt size heat sink to choke off the current going into the pump... which is pretty much what a pump or fan controller is made with, a lower power potentiometer and a mosfet or series of mosfets, there's more to the circuit than that, but this is the general idea.

You'll love those harley controls, All the Harleys use 1" diameter bars instead of 7/8" so you also get to use the more beefy bars using these, you can also slip sections of 1" bar over the 7/8" bar and weld them or cut your 7/8" bar and weld in the 7/8" bar to hold the grips and controls, but there's enough 1" options that you should be able to find what look or feel you want, no problem there.
One of the things I really like about Harley controllers is that the turn signals are on both grips instead of a 2 way switch on the left side, this took me all of about a day or less to get used to, and they also use auto cancelling turn signals so you could find a turn signal controller on ebay pretty cheap so your signals stop flashing once you complete your turn, but they can be wired for manual shut off easy enough too.
The throttle should also have a built in tension adjuster under the grip which is nice on long rides as it can be used as a cruise controller by setting the tension just high enough to keep the throttle from returning on it's own. Another plus here is that you can get the control housings or buttons in black or chrome without having to buy the whole controller.
I eventually want to put Harley controllers on my other bike, a Suzuki Intruder 1400 just because I like the Harley layout much better.

You mentioned you got a Z... Which Z do you have? I had a '79 280zx, a 70 240Z and currently own a '90 300zx

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You could route your wiring thru the bars which makes for a very clean install, just protect the wires either with an extra layer of heat shrink or a grommet on each hole in the bars to prevent chafe thru and early failure by shorting out etc... teflon anti chafe tape works good for this, but heat shrink, or a teflon sleeve will do as well, with the teflon stuff being superior in chafe protection. also, any holes drilled should be deburred really well for even better chafe resistance.

That Badlands box should do the trick just fine, I'm not familiar with that brand but it does look like it's built really well and being American made it should be built to last.

Cool that you got a Z32!! I've had that same car since 1998 and have done just about every upgrade to it except for converting it to twin turbo... and I'd still like to do that one of these days. I used to frequent twinturbo.net but I hadn't posted in there in years... This car is kinda on the back burner for now since it needs a new paint job pretty bad, it still runs like a scalded chicken and handles like a cat on carpet but it's exterior is really showing it's age, the interior and under hood still look new. I do paint for a hobby and am capable of doing the painting myself but need to rent a paint booth or take it somewhere where I can do it since I can't paint in the garage anymore... we also have about 40 parrots in the house and the fumes would kill them pretty easily so my painting with automotive grade paints days are over until I get a place to do it again.
The Z has a Z1 stage3 ECU, headers, full stainless exhaust, Stillen/JWT intake and K&N, underdrive pulleys and electric fans, a Fidanza aluminum flywheel, and a bunch of goodies I'm sure I forgot to list.. lol. I also got an 86 Nissan 4x4 pickup that I've done a ton of mods to as well so I do go between focusing a lot of my efforts on the truck, the Z, and my 3 motorcycles, a Harley Sportster, a Buell Blast, and a Suzuki Intruder 1400... and now these little motorized bikes...