Issues with my first installation

E

eugesd

New Member
Well, first i tried to mount the engine directly but the gear changer was causing it to slant so every time i tried to pedal the chain would get stuck, however i didn't realize that it was the slant of the engine so i removed a chain link and made it VERY tight. The chain then broke and i had to find the small pieces of the master link on the ground. So then i decided to try a different method by raising the engine higher and raise the front mount plate above the frame and drilling a hole through the frame then adding a bolt through the hole however now the chain would get stuck and the engine would start shaking, then the chain would jump off the tire sprocket and get stuck in between the spokes and the chain.

Also i cant accelerate the engine, twisting the handle does nothing, am i twisting hard enough, it only moves about < than a inch. I don't want to break it since i am putting a bit of force.

So all of this has stressed me quiet a bit, please help me out i just want to be able to cvlt1 my bike

-Euge
 
throttles put togther wrong ( I did that too ).. and your rear sprocket isn't completly true I don't think.... don't try to run it like that, you'll break somthing.. I tried to just fire mine off knowing somthing was amiss, and put the chain tensioner thru the spokes of my back wheel.. now due to cost's of that repair, I'v mounted in a diffrent bike
 
Because his sprocket wasn't true, when he fired the motor up, the chain put too much stress on the tensioner and pulled it into the spokes, which messed up his rear wheel.
 
Remove the front changer you won't need it. With it off you can lower the back of the motor a little to fix the chain length. Just put the chain on the middle sprocket with your fingers. Wrap the motor chain all the way around the rear sprocket and see if it fits well or kinda rises up on the teeth. If it does dress the sides and tips of the sprocket with a file till it fits right. Make sure the closed end of the master link clip points the way the chain is rotating. Towards the engine when it's on the top. Look in the carb where the slide drops in. There's a nub in there you have to line up the slot in the slide with it. GL
 
NunyaBidness said:
Because his sprocket wasn't true, when he fired the motor up, the chain put too much stress on the tensioner and pulled it into the spokes, which messed up his rear wheel.
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yup, took out 3 spokes and bent the wheel out the other way.. $100 repair in my area
 
First all slow down, relax. Read some threads. Your problems are not unique.

Junster nailed it. Remove the front derailleur. It's just not necessary. The engine should fit and sit with carb relatively level to the plane of your garage floor. While I revile the bolt-on sprocket and distasteful left chain and tensioner, they can be made to work. Plenty of posts and pictures to view. Getting it eyeball straight is important.


Location matters because there just might be someone in your area who can help.
 
yup.. if you rush the rear sprocket, it'll never spin true.. when I put it on my new wheel/ bike I took my time, spun it several times while installing, making sure it was true.. I removed both derailures from the bike.. seized up anyway. cut the old rusted/ seized chain off with bolt cutters, along with the seized up derailur cables and ran a straight 1/2X1/8" bike chain in 2 sprockets that it fit without shortening..
 
Pablo said:
First all slow down, relax. Read some threads. Your problems are not unique.

Junster nailed it. Remove the front derailleur. It's just not necessary. The engine should fit and sit with carb relatively level to the plane of your garage floor. While I revile the bolt-on sprocket and distasteful left chain and tensioner, they can be made to work. Plenty of posts and pictures to view. Getting it eyeball straight is important.


Location matters because there just might be someone in your area who can help.
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Whats the front derailleur, i live in WA too in the yakima area
 
eugesd said:
Whats the front derailleur, i live in WA too in the yakima area
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You wrote: "the gear changer was causing it to slant.." so I assume you meant the derailleur on the front (crank) chainrings.
 
Pablo said:
You wrote: "the gear changer was causing it to slant.." so I assume you meant the derailleur on the front (crank) chainrings.
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Oh yeah, thats what its called, ill do that right now see what happens, is it bad if the chain is loose but i have the chain tensioner to make it tight?
 
"Wrap the motor chain all the way around the rear sprocket and see if it fits well or kinda rises up on the teeth. If it does dress the sides and tips of the sprocket with a file till it fits right. Make sure the closed end of the master link clip points the way the chain is rotating. Towards the engine when it's on the top. Look in the carb where the slide drops in. There's a nub in there you have to line up the slot in the slide with it. GL"

Im not too sure what he means on that part
 
Sometimes the rear sprockets in the kits are a little too thick for the drive chain chain to fit well. While you have the kit drive chain off. Just wrap it arouund the kit sprocket. If it fits fine, wraps easy then it's fine. If it doesn't you'll see right away what I mean. If it needs it you can file the tips and side of the teeth a little till it fits well. It's very common.
 
ok, also does the way the bevel is positioned matter a lot, because mine is pointed away from the tire, i have a basic v frame mountain bike
 
i changed it and now it looks straighter, i have to ask
my chain is pretty loose, could this be the reason why it gets stuck?
 
yup. 1/2-3/4" of play in the slack side ( bottom ) of the chain is all you want.. any looser and the chain will jump off and any tighter and it can bind up.
 
matt167 said:
yup. 1/2-3/4" of play in the slack side ( bottom ) of the chain is all you want.. any looser and the chain will jump off and any tighter and it can bind up.
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just fixed it, Man it was AWESOME riding that bike turn alot of heads!!!
 
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