Look at some similar kits. Some have a chain drive in the reduction box and some use a belt. None say what the reduction actually is in the transmission. Both kits had a 15t-drive sprocket going to a 44t rear sprocket. I'm going to assume a 3\1 reduction box with the 44\15 for a total reduction of 8.8\1 for a top speed of 31.6 mph at 3600 rpm on 26" tires.I'm curious what kind of clutch it has? If it has one of those standard minibike clutches, it should be fine.
The chain drive itself should be OK, but the backing plate looks very weak.
Another thing I have questions about, is that the throttle cable is connected to the governor arm... If the internal governor parts are still inside the engine, (& working), the governor will be fighting the throttle cable at full throttle. (the internal parts are very easy to remove tho).
Other than that; it looks like a good deal.
30 series TAV with the juggernaut and 7" driver... With the kit to adjust it... Going to be hard to beat...I'm curious what kind of clutch it has? If it has one of those standard minibike clutches, it should be fine.
The chain drive itself should be OK, but the backing plate looks very weak.
Another thing I have questions about, is that the throttle cable is connected to the governor arm... If the internal governor parts are still inside the engine, (& working), the governor will be fighting the throttle cable at full throttle. (the internal parts are very easy to remove tho).
Other than that; it looks like a good deal.
A billet flywheel ? You can get away with more with the older engines because there built better than the stuff today... I would caution removing the governor or just the linkage to it... It would be easy Shure but you're talking a chance it's going to grenade... I would at least blow one up first to know the limit of that particular engine before I sudgest messing around... I'm not saying not to hot rod it just what to expect from doing so... The predator/Honda has a lot of aftermarket parts for this purpose... Sure you're not racing and don't need all the hiperformance stuff... And leave it alone and appreciate it for what it is... 1/2 ass hot rod is just problems waiting to happen
How many RPMs is that Jerry? Bcuz I tossed the governor linkage rod AND the itty bitty 15mm carb. Swapped in a big carb off a 150 cc Chinese scooter. Only other mod is in the final drive, 11t/32t (doesn't anybody run disk brakes in the back? I got mags, so only option). First try out topped me at 42 mph, and was running like s**t, carb WAY off in the jetting and a tiny little air leak (sarcasm). I was using a handlebar grip as an adapter gosh sakes.
Since you said you were using mags; I'm going to assume you've got 26" tires. To do 42 mph on 26" tires with a total reduction of 14.55\1 the engine has to be doing 7898 rpm. That's over double what that engine was designed to do. So you might be able to rev it to that; the question is can you hold it there very long?
Yeah, I don't just trust it up and leave it there. Bicycles have very little business above 30 mph. Small contact patch to the pavement ( maybe 4 square inches? Maybe???) Not to mention heat dissipation for a tire never meant to go that fast, so yeah, I'm a half throttle sorta guy. I'll do the math and get the ratios back to ya. It doesn't sound THAT fast,.... I don't think so anyway. I have a laser tach I'll have to try.
Looks like a gear and a belt drive. First post I see, welcome to the forum. For stuff like this it’s best to start a new topic rather than pull up old threads.
Appreciate it, thanks. I wasn't sure since it was the same subject, but I will in the future.
The first one is chain drive & the second (black cover) is belt drive... The belt drive is way more reliable than the chain, but the belt drive is a little harder to get the pulleys aligned & adjusted perfectly.
