No, it came with the fuel hose, but it is identical. And of course, fix one problem another pops up. I took it out for a short ride last night, ended up breaking 6 spokes on it, the ones near the adapter. Not sure how exactly it happened, so now I'm gonna have to replace with beefier ones.
Mounting plate
- Thread starter Choochoo_nesby
- Start date
Is the adapter a for a 1" rear hub? I had the stock Shimano hub which was a 1" and the kit was suppose to have a 1 1/2" adapter but came
with the 1" which I used. I had my doubts that the hub and bearings could hold up even with careful use on the 212cc. A bearing failed on
the hub even though I figured out a way to keep the hub adapter from slipping on the hub. I locked the hub adapter down with Red LokTite
and the hub adapter still wanted to rotate into the spokes. I then finally fixed that by drilling a hole through the hub adapter all the way to
where the hub makes contact with the hub. I then tapped the aluminum with threads all the way to where the hub would make contact
and put a large allen set screw in the threads to get screwed all the way to the wheel's hub adapter. The has to be carefully done so as not
to break the tap off in the aluminum if that happens then you have no way of removing it and as far as I am concerned, the hub adapter
isn't worth keeping. That's one reason I went to mag wheels to get rid of the whole mess since the bearings in the hub can't handle 212cc
torque. You might be ok doing it on a 49cc and after I tapped, used a set screw in the hub adapter, I never had the adapter try to rotate
into the spokes. The 1 1/2" hub with the adapter will hold and not slip I do know that since I have over 3,000 miles on the Micargi with
"Ghost Racer" transmission on the bike with the 1 1/2" hub and coaster brake. The hub adapter won't hold even with the aluminum
removed from the surface to make it tight even with LokTite on it. I even tried JBWeld on the surfaces figuring that should cure the
problem and it didn't. I suspect that the bearings run hot on that hub and LokTite or JBWeld won't hold under heat. Don't use a locking
screw on a coaster brake with a 1 1/2" hub since there are moving parts internal on them. The 1" hub doesn't have any internal parts in
it except for the bearings on the outside so a set screw would not deform the housing to interfere with anything on that setup. There
are fellas that turned a shallow slot in the hub with a slot in the hub adapter so that it could use a key that made contact with the slot
in the wheel's hub. Way too much trouble doing that besides the whole wheel hub has to be removed and then, a slot could be cut too
deep into the hub ruining it.
The bearings are really too small for motorized bikes on the 1" hub and I'm sure a 1 1/2" hub with a coaster brake and the adapter will
hold for you since the hub adapter has more gripping surface to hold on the wheel's hub.
Dennis
Quite a read there, thanks for the reply. What most likely caused it was the adapter was not tightened enough. I don't think I fully tightened it after I put everything together and learned another lesson the hard way. It is a 1 1/2 inch hub and I was thinking of putting thicker spokes but that may be more work than it's worth. I'll have to check tomorrow but the hub might have the 6 holes already drilled.
Not tightening the clamp on the adapter is a common problem that I've read on the forum for a slipping adapter. I tightened those
two capscrews with a allen wrench with a small 6" pipe that really adds torque to the capscrews. They will take a lot of torque but
don't get carried away doing it.
A set of heavy spokes would help and there are pictures of fellas who forgot to torque down
the 6 small allenscrews on the mag wheels and what happens to the wheel. Real easy to forget things like that on these bikes.
I also use the small 6" pipe on those 6 allen capscrews for tightening but being careful not to strip the threads on them. You can
use stud LokTite on it for making sure it stays tight. You'll have to use heat to remove it but on a 1 1/2" you shouldn't have to.
Like I said earlier, the red LokTite didn't work on my 1" hub with the 212. The green LokTite is the heaviest rated LokTite.
Several years ago a fella posted a video on YouTube where he forgot to tighten the large locking nut on a 212 CVT and it tore
the plastic shroud off of it and he didn't get hurt probably because the shroud stopped things from hitting him. I wouldn't
ride without one since I have seen the damage firsthand what happens when that steel belted belt flies apart. A friend of
mine had one fly apart on his ATV's CVT and the heavy aluminum hood cover/padded two person seat had a big dent put in
it. I would buy a aluminum one if I could find one online.
Dennis
two capscrews with a allen wrench with a small 6" pipe that really adds torque to the capscrews. They will take a lot of torque but
don't get carried away doing it.
A set of heavy spokes would help and there are pictures of fellas who forgot to torque downthe 6 small allenscrews on the mag wheels and what happens to the wheel. Real easy to forget things like that on these bikes.
I also use the small 6" pipe on those 6 allen capscrews for tightening but being careful not to strip the threads on them. You can
use stud LokTite on it for making sure it stays tight. You'll have to use heat to remove it but on a 1 1/2" you shouldn't have to.
Like I said earlier, the red LokTite didn't work on my 1" hub with the 212. The green LokTite is the heaviest rated LokTite.
Several years ago a fella posted a video on YouTube where he forgot to tighten the large locking nut on a 212 CVT and it tore
the plastic shroud off of it and he didn't get hurt probably because the shroud stopped things from hitting him. I wouldn't
ride without one since I have seen the damage firsthand what happens when that steel belted belt flies apart. A friend of
mine had one fly apart on his ATV's CVT and the heavy aluminum hood cover/padded two person seat had a big dent put in
it. I would buy a aluminum one if I could find one online.
Dennis
I think tightening the adapter properly should fix the issue, as far as I know there are no mag wheels for a fat bike. On my other bike I used the crappy rubber mount for the first 2 stroke I had on it and had no trouble. Once I switched to the 4 stroke I ended up deleting the human powered crank so I figured the mag wheels were the way to go. On that topic, I made another post titled first build with a couple of pics of my other bike, if you are so inclined to take a look. A fair warning, rougher looking, but definitely faster than this one.
That's right, you have those smooth-riding FatTires on the bike.
I wonder why there aren't any FatTire mag wheels made, cost?The fellas have used the Husky wheels and like them because of durability. They sell spokes and you could look up a few new ones
and the heaviest is the 11 ga. spokes. Restringing the wheels would be real time consuming and a pain. I've never done it and from
what I've heard it's a learning experience! A fella needs to use a custom fixture for mounting the wheel to make sure it is trued up
mounting the spokes.
Just replace the spokes that are bent or broken loose. My Shimano hub on the 212cc bike had a bearing and race go out on me
under 500 miles and I was wondering how long it was going to last with that engine. That gave me the reason to go to mag wheels
with sealed bearings and a better way to mount a sprocket and disk brake system. I've been there and forgotten to tighten a bolt
or screw because I got distracted or in a hurry and I know everyone has had that happen. I have a link you could check on for spokes.
Husky Wheel Spokes
A fella with the 1" hub on the FatTire bikes would have trouble if he was ramming a lot of torque to the rear wheel. The 1 1/2" hub
should handle it with no problem. The ride on the FatTire bikes is a good ride it's just that most of the ones I have seen on the older
bikes didn't have much room for a 4-stroke engine. Micargi finally got smart and offered a FatTire bike with 4-stroke engine room
on their frames. I'm sure that you can get that fixed and the bike will be a nice ride for you!
Dennis
Apparently, The Chinese have been working on FatTire wheels and bikes. There are even fiberglass wheel sets and mag wheelsThat's right, you have those smooth-riding FatTires on the bike.
The fellas have used the Husky wheels and like them because of durability. They sell spokes and you could look up a few new ones
and the heaviest is the 11 ga. spokes. Restringing the wheels would be real time consuming and a pain. I've never done it and from
what I've heard it's a learning experience! A fella needs to use a custom fixture for mounting the wheel to make sure it is trued up
mounting the spokes.
Just replace the spokes that are bent or broken loose. My Shimano hub on the 212cc bike had a bearing and race go out on me
under 500 miles and I was wondering how long it was going to last with that engine. That gave me the reason to go to mag wheels
with sealed bearings and a better way to mount a sprocket and disk brake system. I've been there and forgotten to tighten a bolt
or screw because I got distracted or in a hurry and I know everyone has had that happen. I have a link you could check on for spokes.
Husky Wheel Spokes
A fella with the 1" hub on the FatTire bikes would have trouble if he was ramming a lot of torque to the rear wheel. The 1 1/2" hub
should handle it with no problem. The ride on the FatTire bikes is a good ride it's just that most of the ones I have seen on the older
bikes didn't have much room for a 4-stroke engine. Micargi finally got smart and offered a FatTire bike with 4-stroke engine room
on their frames. I'm sure that you can get that fixed and the bike will be a nice ride for you!
Dennis
available including bikes! What get me is that the mag wheels that the US dealers are selling are marked up to outrageous
prices. Amazon is selling a fiberglass set of wheels and the one that is a clincher is ALIBABA a Chinese wholesaler. Look at the
bikes and rims available on Alibaba!
Amazon
Alibaba
I've never bought from Alibaba but I have read and seen fellas that have and they've had good results. What I have seen is that
they want to sell in "lots" like some of the sales are for dealers that are buying in quantity. There are sales from them for single
units and the prices beat US prices so that shows how much markup is done here in the States.
Dennis
When looking for a second bike to build I spent some time on alibaba and aliexpress looking at the schwinn OCC chopper style bikes and strongly considered ordering but the ones really cheap are usually bulk sale. I do also have a Seattle SS that i really think would be nicer but I wanted the 7 speed for actually pedaling. I am tempted as I don't see many motorized when googling. I went with the Royal Dutch because it seemed rare/more unique. I also i found one for a good price and had to get it.
I know what you mean about your search for a bike and I also checked on Alibaba's site which showed that they were selling bulk for
business distributors overseas. There were some units that were reasonable in prices and single unit sales. I got mine off of Ebay
and I ordered a single-speed with a coaster brake and got a 7-spd.
That would have been too much trouble to send it back so Iended up removing the extra junk on the bike and used the cassette on it as a single-speed. I also looked at the OCC Chopper bikes
and even found some used ones on Craig's list. There wasn't much room for a Predator on one of those without cutting and extending
the frame so I decided against them. I had the engine kit long before my bike came in and at first was thinking about putting the engine
on the Micargi from what I found, would require cutting and extending the frame to get it to work. I even checked on the aluminum
frames with built in tanks and decided to not go that route since the engine would probably torque that frame out since aluminum isn't
as strong as steel. A Predator 79cc probably would be ok on those frames. You still have the extra cost in adding the additional parts
to a bare frame. I am more interested in using the bike for transportation and as a utility vehicle not as a show bike so looks weren't
what I had in mind.
Dennis
Quick update, I put new grips on this.
I also mentioned in another thread that these transmissions are garbage:
The one that came with the kit ended up with a bent shaft, probably from the loose/crooked sprocket adapter. The second one I had, was slipping really bad when trying to accelerate. I replaced the freeweight, still not working correctly. I pulled the transmission off my other bike and bolted it on, ran so much better. I ordered another, the 8G from GasBikes, I will probably put that one on this one.
I also mentioned in another thread that these transmissions are garbage:
The one that came with the kit ended up with a bent shaft, probably from the loose/crooked sprocket adapter. The second one I had, was slipping really bad when trying to accelerate. I replaced the freeweight, still not working correctly. I pulled the transmission off my other bike and bolted it on, ran so much better. I ordered another, the 8G from GasBikes, I will probably put that one on this one.