Bike starts up as if it ant to start!

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crassius

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Sep 30, 2012
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16:1 won;t stop it if that is what you want to run it with for a while

mag can be tested with meter, but CDI usually cannot

position of mag is related to timing of spark
 

T james

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Nov 6, 2017
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Multimeter set to 2000. Cdi reads nothing when black wire touching to black to cdi and red touching blue to cdi from multimeter. But both lines from multimeter touching either cord from CDI reads 001 or 000. Which from my knowledge should be 006-007. So obviously its bad. The coil removed reads 333. Which I know is good for coil test. So I'm assuming its just as simple as replacing CDI. Fingers crossed!! Thanks A Lot fellas. Update soon!!! View attachment 96631 View attachment 96632
 

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T james

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Ok guys, I put a new cdi and NGK B5HS spark plug on. Kill switch disconnected whole time. C-clip set to notch before richest mixture (which is its original position when it was running fine). Had fuel in carburetor bowl. Magneto reading on multimeter 333 on setting in previous comment. I put a lil fuel in spark plug hole with fuel line (just to increase better results). And it fired up and when I pull throttle it was like it would start accelerating (at a bogging type paste for a second) then nothing then attempt to accelerate then nothing again! (I'm thinking this is whats called 4 stroking).... But I figured not enough fuel or it was position of magneto. So I repositioned c-clip on richest mixture and a magneto to 1 o'clock. Put fuel in spark plug hole again. But got completely nothing this time. No firing up or attempt to accelerate at all. Only difference was I hear a squealing type noise from magneto/clutch area of motor when I released the clutch. So I'm thinking magneto is rotating instead of staying in position to trigger cdi at correct time. So it must be the position of magneto. Since I dont see reposition of c-clip causing this problem. What do you guys think??
 
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T james

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Nov 6, 2017
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Yes, that would be a problem.
That would explain the squealing I hear when I release clutch and pedal, correct? The magneto must br rotating as the gear arm the magneto bolts to rotates. Instead of staying in position to fire spark at correct timing.
 

T james

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Nov 6, 2017
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Ok, I put magneto on with woodruff key. Fit nice and snug. But still no luck starting engine. It does nothing when I release the clutch and pedal. But when I slow down momentum of pedaling. It coughs as if its trying to start but not get what it needs. Its geting fuel and spark. I'm thinking timing is off. But how when woodruff key give you no room to offset timing. If its a set slot on magnet and rotor arm.
 

Greg58

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May 1, 2011
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The key may or may not be at one o'clock, that depends on how the keyway was cut. Some are closer than others. The exploded view below should help.
 

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Greg58

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May 1, 2011
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The way I start mine is simple, first I depress the primer button for about 3 seconds, then lift the choke lever and pedal up to about 10 mph and release the clutch. I keep pedaling till it fires and lower the choke lever slightly to keep it running till it warms up.
 

T james

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Nov 6, 2017
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It was that simple for me to start mines when I got it. I changed stock spark plug and position of c-clip. And when I was riding it heard a pop. Then it shut off. Haven't bern able to get it started since.
 

T james

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Nov 6, 2017
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Its very hard to pedal when clutch released. And only attempts to start when I begin to stop pedalling.
 

T james

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Nov 6, 2017
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The key may or may not be at one o'clock, that depends on how the keyway was cut. Some are closer than others. The exploded view below should help.
It seems magneto and rotor woodruff key slots are at 1 o'clock position when piston is at top of cylinder. How would I adjust magnet if theres only that 1 slot for woodruff key? Make a new slot a few deegrees to left or right?
 

Greg58

Well-Known Member
May 1, 2011
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Newnan,Georgia
James do you have a compression tester? I have one from HF that works well, I would make sure the compression was good. The pop could have been a seal on either side of the crankshaft, if you had the magnet off you saw the seal, there's one the same size only wider on the other end of the crank behind the small gear. If the seals are in place and the compression is good it could be a blown cylinder base gasket. The compression should be around 90 psi or close. The pop could be a broke ring or wrist pin bearing, you can remove the head and move the piston down and look for scratch marks also.
 
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T james

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when key is at 1 o'clock, is rotor horizontal?
Yes magnet is perfectly horizontal at 1 o'clock position. Everything seems to be in working order. Beside I get no spark now. I tested new cdi with multimeter and it read 0. I also tested magneto coil and it read 315. Which I was told should be atleast 325. So I will replace both. And see my results smh.
 

T james

Member
Nov 6, 2017
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James do you have a compression tester? I have one from HF that works well, I would make sure the compression was good. The pop could have been a seal on either side of the crankshaft, if you had the magnet off you saw the seal, there's one the same size only wider on the other end of the crank behind the small gear. If the seals are in place and the compression is good it could be a blown cylinder base gasket. The compression should be around 90 psi or close. The pop could be a broke ring or wrist pin bearing, you can remove the head and move the piston down and look for scratch marks also.
James do you have a compression tester? I have one from HF that works well, I would make sure the compression was good. The pop could have been a seal on either side of the crankshaft, if you had the magnet off you saw the seal, there's one the same size only wider on the other end of the crank behind the small gear. If the seals are in place and the compression is good it could be a blown cylinder base gasket. The compression should be around 90 psi or close. The pop could be a broke ring or wrist pin bearing, you can remove the head and move the piston down and look for scratch marks also.
I took motor jug and piston off when it first stop running. It appeared undamaged.
 

crassius

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Sep 30, 2012
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mag should be good, CDI can not really be tested with a meter

I get the feeling that you're chasing yourself in a circle - is there anyone near you that can look at it?
 

T james

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Nov 6, 2017
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I'm bout to look into to someone. Because I'm sure its something simple. But I'm sure I'll try fixing it before I do (mainly due to pride and knowing I'm pretty good with my hands). Its like it wants to start but can't. I'm wondering if it not getting enough fuel. So I'm going to clean carb and inspect it. Then install 66 jet. Put rotor back in line with woodruff key. Then give her a try. But I'm certain when magneto wired correctly to 2 cdi I have (one stock the other an aftermaket but identical to stock but purchased off amazon with good reviews). I got no spark pushing bike while grounded to bare metal on cylinder head and spark plug was plugged to cdi and cdi wired to magneto. Kill switch is/has been unplugged until problem solved. Fuel in bowl/line. Carb cylinder that hold needle etc. is not drench but wet enough to know fuel is passing through it. Also spark plug. When it clutch engaged it. Piston seems to start but only for a few seconds before dying out. If it starts and I give it gas with choke open. Its a muffled typed sound where you can hear the affect. Of throttle engaging. And I either get no acceleration or a spirt of acceleration as if its recognizing throttle being pulled. Then may bogg but not shut off. Then start to recognize throttle again and accelerate for only a secongd or 2. Then bogg out of acceleration again. As soon as I pull in clutch. Motor immediately shuts off at any point....I'm trying to see what I'm missing.
 
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