Block layer good gear ratio calculator?

[TheSignGuy]

Hey so looking at gear ratios on blocklayer according to block layer my gear ratios backward?

Which is why I am not receiving proper clutch rpm....

I need atleast a 6 or 7 inch pulley at the clutch to get close to 1650 rpm lockup?

The sheave must match the clutch to Max rpm out?

 

[curtisfox]

Last i knew Block layers laid cement blocks. You and him better go back to school.

Over and over you won't listen.........Curt

 

[TheSignGuy]

Last i knew Block layers laid cement blocks. You and him better go back to school.

Over and over you won't listen.........Curt

Blocks a legit pulley calculator you know what I'm good....

 

[curtisfox]

Engineers designed them clutches way before my time, to work with other components. And establish a good gear ratio, to work with bigger pulleys. Never in my life have i seen a bigger pulley on one, get some help to figure out how to read that calculator.

 

[TheSignGuy]

Engineers designed them clutches way before my time, to work with other components. And establish a good gear ratio, to work with bigger pulleys. Never in my life have i seen a bigger pulley on one, get some help to figure out how to read that calculator.

Doesn't work in inches but by mm's it indicates I'm only getting 7 something rpm out my clutch @ 3600 very hard to find a calc they feed all the moped cvt gear heads calcs, the tooth drivers calcs, but not "****!" For v belt people.

 

[TheSignGuy]

Engineers designed them clutches way before my time, to work with other components. And establish a good gear ratio, to work with bigger pulleys. Never in my life have i seen a bigger pulley on one, get some help to figure out how to read that calculator.

I take that back I miss read this is the statistics.

3.25 clutch pulley with 15 inch sheave.

1.75 pulley with 15 inch sheave.

Also my terrain starts at 25ft from my house toward end of trip hill is about 325ft according to google.

Inbetween hills I don't throttle as to spare clutch.

Going to pickup a pulley tomorrow 1.75 may have to bore out the center as I noticed the center sprocket cannot touch the crank on the clutch so will have to center point spot weld it on so I can keep the chain ring for its c clip lock in.

 

[curtisfox]

!.75 may not work, to small. Think i said it before the belt will slip, not enough circumference for the belt to grab. About the smallest you can go would be 2.5, with out a tensioner.

I did what you want to do, only with the proper tools, if you weld a pulley to the clutch it will wrap, and need for bushing reshape our reaming.

Try this: http://jimsitton.net/ratiocalc/

 

[TheSignGuy]

!.75 may not work, to small. Think i said it before the belt will slip, not enough circumference for the belt to grab. About the smallest you can go would be 2.5, with out a tensioner.

I did what you want to do, only with the proper tools, if you weld a pulley to the clutch it will wrap, and need for bushing reshape our reaming.

Try this: http://jimsitton.net/ratiocalc/

For the last time I don't have a PC for exe files and I still think I should leave it alone while being gentle on throttle just finished my brake lever throttle with homemade Clevis made it out of a piece a metal that got blown out a Crevis by the leaf blower folded it, put a bolt in it, lock ring, and cut the cable.


Works fine all under $10.00

Not much I can do left on this old system.

Unless I go chain or torque converter I find Jack shaft is useless I need a wheel swap for more options to add a sprocket and let's not forget the whole motor needs to be moved to the center of the frame.


Looking for a transplant bike that I can add the wheels and a traditional derailur system in addition my motor also has no torque converter bolt holes on my case half.


I have pure questions about raptor parts are they interchangeable for all flat heads Briggs made?


I Rather just disassemble, port, cam up, exhaust, and install a torque converter...

Need to push the motor far up the frame as possible to keep pedals if anything the shaft needs to be wider then the motor on the crank.


I'm ready to do more, but needs to last 10+ years minus maintenance I also noticed my motors faster running slightly rich.

Not sure if the tune up again dropped top speed or is the clutch getting ready to fail.

I'm now only hitting 30-32mph on my bike and I still think the carb to intake gaskets worn out.


Although I'm still in track with my original speed wanted 32.86 I did some reading if I repeat I lose top speed.

So by race standards that's why my top speeds good at the risk of a clutch.

Proper gear ratio risk speed.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Hey so looking at gear ratios on blocklayer according to block layer my gear ratios backward?

Which is why I am not receiving proper clutch rpm....

I need atleast a 6 or 7 inch pulley at the clutch to get close to 1650 rpm lockup?

The sheave must match the clutch to Max rpm out?

Gear ratios backwards?

I'm sorry. My bad.

So install the 15" sheave on the crank and the 3.2" pulley on the rear wheel.

Voila!
Problem solved!

You're welcome.

BTW, 1650rpm is the idle speed for Briggs engines.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

BTW, there's nothing wrong with the calculator.

You need to know how to use it.

Besides, I guess you don't realize that applying
the gear ratio on pedal bicycles is
the opposite as the gear ratio on motorized bicycles. It's an honest mistake made by many.

For pedal bikes, use big sprocket at
the pedal and small sprocket at the rear wheel.

For motorized bikes, with single rear wheel sprocket/pulley and with shift kits,
it's small sprocket at the pedal(AND crankshaft).....

and big sprocket/pulley at the rear wheel.

If you reverse the sprockets on motorized bikes,

you will DEFINITELY burn out the clutch.

This guy learns by trial by error,
not by book learning or other people's experiences.

Ok, install the 7" crank pulley
and report back.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

Doesn't work in inches but by mm's it indicates I'm only getting 7 something rpm out my clutch @ 3600 very hard to find a calc they feed all the moped cvt gear heads calcs, the tooth drivers calcs, but not "****!" For v belt people.

You should've paid more attention in school.....seriously.

The "calcs" for pulleys can be inches or mms on any calculator.

If you look carefully, you might see a tab that converts mm to inches and vice versa.

Click that tab.

Or find another calculator.

You must learn how to convert inches into mms.

You must also learn how to convert mms into inches.

Can you have your smartest kid post with you on this forum?

Seriously.

 

[TheSignGuy]

Gear ratios backwards?

I'm sorry. My bad.

So install the 15" sheave on the crank and the 3.2" pulley on the rear wheel.

Voila!
Problem solved!

You're welcome.

BTW, 1650rpm is the idle speed for Briggs engines.

Wish I could but we know I need a wheel swap to fit anything else on it..

Briggs website says 1200 rpm for cast iron engines and 1750 for aluminium.

If I had a small axle could do that but hey you get what you pay for right...


I'm at work ATM TTYL.

 

[TheSignGuy]

You should've paid more attention in school.....seriously.

The "calcs" for pulleys can be inches or mms on any calculator.

If you look carefully, you might see a tab that converts mm to inches and vice versa.

Click that tab.

Or find another calculator.

You must learn how to convert inches into mms.

You must also learn how to convert mms into inches.

Can you have your smartest kid post with you on this forum?

Seriously.

I use Google it's smarter then everybody in mathematics so everything's accurate..

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

YOUR QUOTE-"Although I'm still in track with my original speed wanted 32.86 I did some reading if I repeat I lose top speed.

So by race standards that's why my top speeds good at the risk of a clutch.

Proper gear ratio risk speed."



Please have your smartest kid join you online and explain WTF you're trying to say.

 

[xseler]

Please have your smartest kid join you online and explain WTF you're trying to say.

"It's Got Electrolytes."

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

"It's Got Electrolytes."

Touche!

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

I use Google it's smarter then everybody in mathematics so everything's accurate..

Yes, Google is excellent.

It's you that's the problem.

You can't interpret the correct answers Google gives you....

or you're giving Google the wrong input.

 

[TheSignGuy]

I use Google it's smarter then everybody in mathematics so everything's accurate..

Wait a minute didn't you say I needed a 5 inch pulley for a jackshaft kit....?

I found a 5 inch v belt clutch....

That may work and it's heavy duty and used for heavy duty equipment up to 300lbs.

 

[curtisfox]

Wait a minute didn't you say I needed a 5 inch pulley for a jackshaft kit....?

I found a 5 inch v belt clutch....

That may work and it's heavy duty and used for heavy duty equipment up to 300lbs.

5" pulley to drive the jack shaft that YOUR clutch is mounted on, the YOUR smaller clutch pulley to drive the wheel.

5" v-belt clutch ? with a 3/4" bore? Don't think so

 

[Tony01]

Wait a minute didn't you say I needed a 5 inch pulley for a jackshaft kit....?

I found a 5 inch v belt clutch....

That may work and it's heavy duty and used for heavy duty equipment up to 300lbs.

no the reason it dont work is that you need a block sprocket clutch on the english plate to support your intake. if you setup the v belt pulley to go backwards then you can have higher speed spoke nipples moving in your wheel.

"how do we increase crankshaft spin temperature"

this is very important. you spin temp needs to be higher than your gear ratio by at least 50%.

if you want to go fast you need a 8 inch clutch made for heavy equipment up to 50lbs.

run your motors lean so they can be lighter weight and make it easier to propel the bike.

hope this helps