Integrated Spark Plug Wire

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CDBrandon82

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Apr 10, 2017
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Fort Gordon, GA
While I was trying to remove the spark plug wire from the plug, the coil got caught on the head of the plug and gnarled it a bit. While it still works, it is something that I would eventually like to replace. However, upon reading the forums, most of the spark plug wire changing threads talk about the screw on variations found on the external CDI. My 66cc Flying Horse Angle Fire does not have an external CDI, and the spark plug wire runs in under the magneto cover, connects to the magneto assembly, and does not appear to be a screw-on type.

Has anyone experienced this? I have looked to see if there is a replacement to this integrated spark/magneto setup, but I have come up with nothing.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

-Chris



 
ZipTie

ZipTie

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Jan 8, 2016
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I have stayed clear of this type of motors with the CDIs in the magneto area due to hearing about heat issues so I have no experience with the cdi spark plug wire. However I would think the spark plug wire is screwed into the plastic tube Bakelite housing you circled. You could try twisting it counter clockwise firmly and see if it loosens. ( sometimes they use potting glue at the base of the wire. If you see glue residue its a clue that it is screwed in there ) I'm surprised someone with experience with that newer engine type haven't responded. Hang on, help should be on the way soon from some in the know forum member.
 
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CDBrandon82

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Apr 10, 2017
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Thanks for the reply! I have looked, but did not see any residue. I finally found a replacement, and will likely order one before trying anything. Plus, I have read it is always a good idea to have a spare on hand anyways. For some reason it takes forever to get parts shipped as everything seemingly comes from California, and I am on the East Coast. Do these things really go out like people say?

-Chris
 
crassius

crassius

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Sep 30, 2012
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I had a blown up super rat here years ago with that CDI, never looked to see if it unscrewed tho - don't have it here now.
 
ZipTie

ZipTie

Active Member
Jan 8, 2016
750
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Ok what I would do is order or get a new NON resistor NGK spark plug cap as that just unscrews or u can just clip it off the old cap and screw on the new one to the wire as they have a simple sharp sheet metal screw for attachment. This way you just leave your wire alone. I buy them on ebay or at Fleetfarm store. They are commonly used on old tractors and old vehicles. Make sure it is NON resistor. Prt number NGK LZFH

ebay link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NGK-LZFH-no...587947?hash=item33a0694e2b:g:1EMAAOSwDk5TvX8-


I've seen a few vendors selling resistor types for motorized bikes (yikes) and they weaken the spark so bad the bike will lose power. Yep all sellers except Lynn's motorized bikes located in eastern Wisc. Most suppliers are out west.

zip
 
ZipTie

ZipTie

Active Member
Jan 8, 2016
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I forgot the comment on the heat issue. I believe they have addressed that problem of heat wrecking the CDis by improving insulation or components. With that said, some guys were drilling a cooling hole in the Mag cover but then you could have moisture problems.
If you ever have a problem spares are not that much or you can convert it back to a standard Mag and CDI I believe. Heck with the whole engine only 120.00 bucks why worry.
I spent that on a few groceries just minutes ago.

Here is Lynns Custom Motorized Bike/ Parts/ she runs a square Business with decent service and prices.
http://www.custommotoredbicycles.com/home_custom_motored_bicycles
 
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KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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That is the same setup as the Super Rat, http://bicycle-engines.com may carry parts for them.

ZipTie said:
Make sure it is NON resistor. Prt number NGK LZFH

I've seen a few vendors selling resistor types for motorized bikes (yikes) and they weaken the spark so bad the bike will lose power.
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That's just silly.
The resistor is there to cancel RF interference from the engine firing so you can use things like a wireless speedometer or radio.

I get a performance BOOST by using an NGK 5944 (BPR7HIX) iridium spark plug in all my 2-stroke builds.

It is a resistor plug only for use in slant head engines as it is a bit longer than stock thus increasing your compression.

It has great spark, comes pre-gapped with protective cover, will never need to be replaced, and things like a wireless speedo or radio won't get RF interference.

As for Solid Core plug wire it will help if you are getting a weak 'spark' from the Mag to the CDI which happens.

I address that little weakness of the ignition system, getting every bit of magneto power to the CDI and make it look prettier than the stock wiring by replacing it.



I run 16G black wire directly from the magneto to cut down CDI wires, solder everything, and then attach a black cover over the CDI where the wires connect.

Sometimes I add a keylock to that 'hobby box' CDI cover and epoxy it on.



The ignition key lock is just another kill button, but you need a key to operate it ;-}

Anyway, I am in chat with BE now to help find you the part.
 
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CDBrandon82

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Apr 10, 2017
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Fort Gordon, GA
I have finally found the CDI through Bikeberry. It seems like this particular CDI (called an Internal CDI) is proprietary to Flying Horse, and seemingly only sold through Bikeberry (either on their website or through Amazon). I think it is a good concept, but the spark plug cable is pretty cruddy. I asked the people at Bikeberry if the boot could be removed and replaced by another boot, and they said likely not. It is not a slip on boot - it is one cohesive unit molded together. Also, apparently with the wiring the way it is, you can't modify the system to facilitate an external CDI either. If you like flexibility, it would seem as though Flying Horse is not the way to go.

I appreciate everyone's feedback and comments, and have learned from all of you! I will definitely be testing out some of these spark plugs. I have been using the low profile Champion CJ7Y that is commonly recommended, but the NGKs seem to have a better reputation, just a bit pricier.

Thanks again for everything!


https://www.amazon.com/Internal-CDI...8&qid=1492630888&sr=1-2&keywords=internal+CDI

-Chris
 
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xseler

xseler

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Apr 14, 2013
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CDBrandon82 said:
Definitely worth a look! Thanks! Lots of great resources on these bikes! I'd be lost without this forum! I am noob working out the kinks on my first build.
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Nothing at all wrong with having to work out the 'kinks'. There are many of us on here that are still working out/improving the 'kinks' years after the first test run! I call it my "continual improvement program".

Best of luck in your adventures!
 
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CDBrandon82

New Member
Apr 10, 2017
12
0
0
Fort Gordon, GA
xseler said:
Nothing at all wrong with having to work out the 'kinks'. There are many of us on here that are still working out/improving the 'kinks' years after the first test run! I call it my "continual improvement program".

Best of luck in your adventures!
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Many thanks! This hobby seems to have so many different variations of similar problems, and while one thing works for someone, something else works for the other. I am happy as long as I can keep it on the road.

Now if I could only figure out how to get the back wheel on straight with the fenders on, that would be a miracle! Seems no matter how straight I feel I get it, it is wobbly...

-Chris
 
KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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CDBrandon82 said:
Now if I could only figure out how to get the back wheel on straight with the fenders on, that would be a miracle! Seems no matter how straight I feel I get it, it is wobbly...

-Chris
Click to expand...
Post a pic of your bike as most of my builds have fenders.
 
KCvale

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
3,966
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I don't know where you hosted your photos but I won't be clicking any more for a larger view, I was slammed with crap when I tried and don't have time for that nonsense.
 
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