Wide front motor mount motor

crassius said:
sorry, I only sell out of my shop - adding hours of packing & shipping & finding a way to get paid is just too much for a guy my age
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Same here bud.
I had grand plans to retire with an MB parts business but all that is gone for me now.
 
DRK said:
I hate ADAPTERS!
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I dig 'em...

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~90% of my 2-stroke builds get that SBP front 'muffler clamp' mount and they all pass the Shove Test.

The most important mounting thing on any 2-stroke is the back of engine, it has to be square up against the seat post to transfer the power to the bike.

No exceptions on rear engine mounts, no shims and such, you do that back mount right, straight and tight to your seat post and go from there.

This is where 'better than stock' front engine mounting parts can make a big difference between a couple 'ents Enjoyments and Disappointments.
 
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KCvale said:
What bike are you putting the engine in?
You don't need to buy an engine based on it's front mount size, that can be easily adapted to fit any frame with ease.
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It's a Raleigh Talus 1, 21 speed with front derailer eliminated, custom made jackshaft housing machined and welded to seat post (shifter bike). I'm one of those anal people that likes everything a certain way. I like form & function, sometimes hard to have both. But I'm gonna give it my best shot.
 
DRK said:
It's a Raleigh Talus 1, 21 speed with front derailer eliminated, custom made jackshaft housing machined and welded to seat post (shifter bike).

I'm one of those anal people that likes everything a certain way.
I like form & function, sometimes hard to have both.
But I'm gonna give it my best shot.
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Cool.
Nice bike to start with.

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I am curious to see your welded on jackshaft system.

My Talus was tough to fit in direct drive...

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I think it would make a cool shifter though ;-}
 
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Jackshaft housing
 

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Well, I am really confused with what you are doing now...

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You plan to cut the frame and weld that piece to a frame tube?
Or just 'butt weld' it to the frame?
Best of luck with that either way as it's a pretty decent bike and gears would sure help, they always do ;-}
 
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The cut out wraps around the back side of the seat tube (welded). Then I have a rear motor mount made out of 1/8'' mild steel that wraps around the front of the seat tube and joins up to the jackshaft housing (welded to seat tube & jackshaft housing). The rear motor mount is at the right length & angle that the front motor mount fits the front down tube (1-1/2'' dia.) perfect (ie. NO ADAPTERS). Then I'm using the front half (just the half moon part) of a Manic Mech. billet motor mount. That's why I wanted a motor with the wide front mount.Yeah I know I probably confused you more. I'll post pics when done. Thanks for your interest.
 
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DRK said:
The cut out wraps around the back side of the seat tube (welded).
Yeah I know I probably confused you more. I'll post pics when done. Thanks for your interest.
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No problem, I'll try to help you with this warning, make sure it's right and true before you weld.
I am talking chain length consideration from both sides, engine and pedal system.
 
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You couldn't be more right on the straight & true thing. I'll be able to adjust the left side by putting 1/32 or 1/16 or 1/8 inch shims, or any combination of the shims, between the rear motor mount and the engine. Right side will have idler. Check out the edited pic above, much clearer.
 
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DRK said:
You couldn't be more right on the straight & true thing. I'll be able to adjust the left side by putting 1/32 or 1/16 or 1/8 inch shims, or any combination of the shims, between the rear motor mount and the engine. Right side will have idler. Check out the edited pic above, much clearer.
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Cool man.
Gears change everything if you can pull it off right, it looks like you are on the right track now.
 
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