This thread got me working on my hybrid again, I should have some pics up soon. Electric or gas driven depending on my needs. I cant wait for springtime so I can ride to the park (gas) ride the bicycle trails (electric) and then ride home again (gas). Hybrid= awesome. Gas is just too loud for many of my activities, and electric just dont provide the range I need so for me it works great. And it would be dumb for me to have two bikes, as I cant tow a bike with a bike. ::rolls eyes::
Gas-Electric Hybrid Bike
- Thread starter wjliebhauser
- Start date
My (electric) bike, provides me 80-100 miles on a charge...
I see no reason (for me or for anyone else really) to need gas...
If you live in Florida and near me, I'll show ya my bike.
I see no reason (for me or for anyone else really) to need gas...
If you live in Florida and near me, I'll show ya my bike.
Well price for me (and maybe some others) keeps me pretty limited. Ive only got about ~$450 into my bike (its just a hub kit, and a motor kit on one frame) but if I could get that kinda mileage in a setup in that range then I will need to know where to go lol
A setup...
1.) 48v 17a controller/motor/wheel kit (Allows 20mph top speed)
Cost: $220
2.) 48v 40Ah Battery... 25mph, 80 miles.
Cost: $900
Total cost battery/motor setup cost $1,120...
4 years = $280 per year
Refill cost: about .40c every 80 miles. Total fuel cost per year = $40
(I do a minimum of 8,000 miles a year)
4 years $280 + 4 years fuel cost $40
= total cost of ownership.. $320/year or $1280 total
1.) 48v 17a controller/motor/wheel kit (Allows 20mph top speed)
Cost: $220
2.) 48v 40Ah Battery... 25mph, 80 miles.
Cost: $900
Total cost battery/motor setup cost $1,120...
4 years = $280 per year
Refill cost: about .40c every 80 miles. Total fuel cost per year = $40
(I do a minimum of 8,000 miles a year)
4 years $280 + 4 years fuel cost $40
= total cost of ownership.. $320/year or $1280 total
I was thinking about this concept again the other day. Small gear drive front hub motor with a small 48v lithium frame mount battery, something 8ah or less, easily good for 20 miles and 20 mph, for in town/bike path stealth and off the line launching. Rear 35cc friction for getting to town and beyond.
Both systems easily removable if need be, just need an extra front wheel around if I just want the bike to be a bike. The weight should not be too bad even with both systems on board and the bike would pedal easily without compromising my preferred riding position and very little excess drag on the drivetrain when motors are not engaged which is a must for me. Bike handling should be ok also due to balanced weight front and rear.
Both systems easily removable if need be, just need an extra front wheel around if I just want the bike to be a bike. The weight should not be too bad even with both systems on board and the bike would pedal easily without compromising my preferred riding position and very little excess drag on the drivetrain when motors are not engaged which is a must for me. Bike handling should be ok also due to balanced weight front and rear.
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i have been thinking of building a hybrid also....one great advantage here in seattle is that i could run the electric bike on the city trails ... and the gas on the streets.... also i just like the concept... good luck...
scotty
scotty
My hybrid trike has a liquid cooled 48v 1000w hub motor paired to a gxh50 4 stroke. As far as I know there are only 3 hybrid trikes including mine in the US.
This is an old thread to be resurrected? Anyway, can you tell more about your hybrid?
My own uses a custom-built generator to provide charge/power and an electric hub motor to provide propulsion. Generator is a Subaru Robin 33.5cc clone, running a custom brushless as a gen, with 3D printed flanges/housing for everything and forced-air cooling.
David.
I, too, would like to see this thread live on.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=47993
Above is the thread I started a year ago on a gas/electric trike. Aspects of the build may be of interest to others here.
SB
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=47993
Above is the thread I started a year ago on a gas/electric trike. Aspects of the build may be of interest to others here.
SB
My electric hub motor is direct drive and has some transmission fluid in it to aid in the cooling. So if I ever want to run at speeds or voltages higher than what it was originally rated for it won't fry the windings. I did at one point have a 48v 350w motor that was liquid cooled but the wheel builder ended up closing shop and stealing it 2 years later. Lol.
Behind my KMX venoms seat is my 4-stroke Honda gxh50 which drives a large custom made sprocket bolted to my hub motor.
Since my hub motor is direct drive I can pedal or use the gas motor to recharge the batteries.
That's cool that you used a 3d printer for some parts. I'm actually in the process of designing and building a 4'x8' thermoforming table so I can make a body for my trike(velomobile)
Behind my KMX venoms seat is my 4-stroke Honda gxh50 which drives a large custom made sprocket bolted to my hub motor.
Since my hub motor is direct drive I can pedal or use the gas motor to recharge the batteries.
That's cool that you used a 3d printer for some parts. I'm actually in the process of designing and building a 4'x8' thermoforming table so I can make a body for my trike(velomobile)
I'm looking into a similar setup, with the electric for the primary drive motor up front, gas motor in the frame powering the rear, taking over driving duties once the electric battery gets too low, and somehow modding the drive parts for a friction-drive kit to charge the battery while the gas engine does the work. Reasoning behind this, closest gate to my jobsite might be closed for good, and I need to find an easier way to get there than hitting the pavement the long way off the metro transit.
Of course an easier way would be just to stick a hub motor up front for the primary drive, on a single-speed freewheel bike, and then using the pedals powering the rear for when charge gets too low, while using the friction-drive parts to charge the battery as I pedal.
Of course an easier way would be just to stick a hub motor up front for the primary drive, on a single-speed freewheel bike, and then using the pedals powering the rear for when charge gets too low, while using the friction-drive parts to charge the battery as I pedal.
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Out of interest, I did complete the generator based trials - Up to about 1HP of electrical power, no worries, @ 24V for total weight increase of around 10~12 lbs. Range on 600ml of fuel was around 50 Km, economy exceeded 200 MPG.
By the final iteration, the batteries were never charged, and wouldn't fully power the electric motors - they were getting on towards 600 cycles or equivalent by then, and constantly being undercharged.
I just carried around an extra 600ml of fuel, for a total range of 100km - And it replaced all forms of transport for me in good weather, including equalling a 52km round-trip commute with public transport, at a quarter of the cost.
So I wouldn't recommend friction drive if you have an electric motor anyway - A micro-sized generator can power the hub and charge the batteries at the same time, or simply take over and stop any further depletion of the batteries.
David.