New Candy Apple Skyhawk Gt2A Build

[ZipTie]

Absolutely Great Detailing ! I'm so stuck on the details I didn't even read anything did you do any special engine mods.

Thanks man, No mods other than the head and checking the opened cylinder for any swarf. and installing the new CNC head with open bolts. I haven't even started it. Its -3 and glare ice on driveway and street...ouch

 

[ZipTie]

Not sure if you noticed but your brake spring is not on quite right. Bike looks amazing.

Thanks the thumbs up Ok Kev Help me out. you noticed something about a brake spring? I know my rear brake pulls are spread beyond norm and I'm confused on what to do or buy to correct it. I have the tension wires set for a hard pull to help spread them. The rear pull brakes work well but look odd to me also so far apart... They must be made for a narrower wheel? or am I missing something? help!

 

[KCvale]

Thanks KC, I've admired your work. Those are some solid builds, something I have yet to learn. You have really mastered the mechanics and safety to an amazing level!

Off topic but...Too bad someone haven't made a simple clamp and screw on hub adapter for standard hubs for installing the disc brakes. Having to get new disc brake hubs laced on to rims you want is certainly a PITA.

Thanks for the Kudos but I was just trying to help with the whole GT2 gas tank frames and you can do with besides a direct drive is all ;-}

The new GT frame version sounds exciting.
When will it be available?
Any tips KC on getting a real Skyhawk frame?

One would think a knock off would of been too costly to undertake.
is there more than one knock off of the GT2 series frame?
I know I and others would love to hear more history on this unique frame.

I get my genuine Skyhawk parts from http://www.bicycle-engines.com/Grubee-Aluminum-Motorized-Bicycle-Frame-GTA-150.html

The thing is, you have to be vetted to buy through China Gas to be a Wholesale Disturber, and that takes some real volume delivered in cargo containers. gas engines has that and it gets more complex after that, for example the frames I have reserved, just suffice to say that you can't find anything real unless you are on that list, and gasbike/kings and few other can't even buy the parts wholesale to begin with it as are banned for it.

I however happen to be on the good list and why I can get the real stuff.

Long story on many Grubee things and the knockoffs of Don's designs using his markings/brand name, but apparently just another cheap knock-off of good design provided the same materials were used would be as good and simply not.

That should answer most of the questions I hope, at least for now, I have another frame in the box, as well a new Fito in the box for most of parts for this next build.

I haven't settkeled on theme yet but liking what you did with Red, I like red/black and chrome, maybe an AZ Cardinal's Superbowl 50 theme?
I could so do that ;-}

 

[Brassneck]

No mods other than the head

Is that the stock head, just filed down? It looks so trick!

 

[ZipTie]

Is that the stock head, just filed down? It looks so trick!

Thanks Brassneck, looks better in person...Its the stock cylinder head I filed for hours and then sanded and topped it off with Dremel buffing felt cones dipped in various course grade rubbing compounds and then used a fine one///It was a messy and nasty job as the High rpm Dremel spews the compound everywhere. Took 3 eves for the whole process...guess i had nothing better to do. I went thru 15 buffing cones or more. For anyone interested you can buy buffing dremel cones on ebay pretty cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-Soft-...057451?hash=item46465aa96b:g:Pa8AAOSwo3pWcNc2 like 10 bucks for 50
Then topped it off with a CNC high comp head. looks presentable now for a china girl engine. I might try getting a engine chromed sometime. I wonder if anyone has tried. Chrome wont get ya home...so probably not.
DH

 

[kevyleven007]

They used to sell chrome 2 strokes all over the place. I had a couple. If you look around you could probably find one.

 

[KCvale]

They used to sell chrome 2 strokes all over the place. I had a couple. If you look around you could probably find one.

Plasti-Coat high temp rattle-can 'chrome' does ok in a pinch.

But it's still just paint, not a coating like Chrome or even Powder Coat.
For that build though it made the bike, especially the exhaust as that back SBP expansion chamber really killed the look, nicer build, just not the Real benefit of real chrome.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Is that a threaded head set you used on this build?

I cant believe how stupid bicycles are with how there is nothing standardized I ended up buying Springer forks in 1" for the threaded design for the vintage look and ordered a 1 1/8" to 1" adapter headset only to find out after it arrive it wont work on the GT2A frame. Really hate threadless design forks and I'm at the point I need to figure out what to do or this is the final straw and I'm sending what I have back for a refund and getting out of this hobby.

 

[ZipTie]

Is that a threaded head set you used on this build?

I cant believe how stupid bicycles are with how there is nothing standardized I ended up buying Springer forks in 1" for the threaded design for the vintage look and ordered a 1 1/8" to 1" adapter headset only to find out after it arrive it wont work on the GT2A frame. Really hate threadless design forks and I'm at the point I need to figure out what to do or this is the final straw and I'm sending what I have back for a refund and getting out of this hobby.

Rusty, Bikes are frustrating for sure, that is until one gets familiar with all their evil ways. Then when the experience sets in the evil ways turn kind. I made tons of mistakes when I built my first 3 bikes. Especially in the headset/fork dept. I would return the fork as a 1" wont work for a GT2a...and get a 1 1/8 threadless fork or get a 1 1/8th threaded. Originally that bike had a Threaded fork but I could never get the bearing tight enough for my liking. so I swapped it out for threadless.

What I like about threadless forks is one can tighten them just perfect using the allen head nut that gets press fit in the inside of the tube. Then you lock down the dog bone that holds the handle bars. keep in mind most springer forks with a 1 inch down tube may not be strong enough. I hated threadless at first now Iove them. Threadless forks look sleeker because they are also far more low profile with out the ugly tall gooseneck.

If you have a 1 inch fork you dont need, just post here in the forum and it will be snatched up and sold fast in the for sale thread.
If you need further help I am here!

 

[Rusty_S85]

Interesting. For me ive not had a bike since I was younger and they were all threaded. To me threadless just seems unsafe and weak especially for something you would be driving around at 20+ mph.

In any case I got on amazon this morning and found a Sunlite Deluxe Springer fork in 1 1/8" threadless (cant find a threaded one other than 1" which is what I originally ordered). So I have a 1 1/8" threadless fork coming in should be here Thursday. Not sure if I should paint the frame first assemble the headset then get a measurement on the fork and have it cut or go and paint the fork first then have it cut. Think I might take it to a bike shop as I don't think a hacksaw would give me a square enough cut.

Now I just have to figure out how you set one of these up properly. I heard you have to cut the head tube on the fork down to size.

Well I placed another order on amazon (prime is great in this sense) I purchased a SG6 threadless saw guide so I can cut the fork myself. I also bought a star setter for the threadless star.

I don't know how I am going to do the math this site I came across talks about but I will do my best to figure it out. But from my reading I have to have a dogbone for the handle bar and any spacers I want before I can properly cut the fork.

 

[ZipTie]

Rusty, Yep, step one is get the threadless headset with the bearings get a dog bone that will fit your handlebars and the 1/1/8 tube. Also don't forget to make sure you have the fork tube spine nut that gets pounded in about 1/2 " down the tube after its cut. Once your headset is installed with bearings and any optional spacers and then dogbone for your preference height. It just get all manually pushed together so everything is seated then measure and mark with a sharpie just at the top of the dog bone as your cut will be like a 1/4 inch below that line as it gives it slack to be tightened down using the top ufo shaped washer that has a allen head screw that threads into the spline nut. Tighten up the UFO washer as it pushes against the dogbone. This sets your preferred bearing tightness.
when you cut your down tube use a cheap hacksaw or a dremel with the cut off saw blade. make a straight cut is my only advice on cutting. Just enjoy the learning curve as I was in the same boat not messing with bikes in 40 years but you will love your GT2A for so many reasons. Trust me you will love the threadless system plus that Sunlit fork you bought is stellar and is my favorite, if you need photos or parts pictures or links I can get those done tonight for you, sorry for the delay on response but we had severe storm damage to my house and thousands of houses sunday morn and we are all in clean up mode still with.broken windows, roof damage, trees down and everybody's house looks like it was shot up with a machine gun from huge hail and high winds.

 

[ZipTie]

I forgot to mention, safety is really about how well the handle bars are attached firmly to the fork. I believe that the threadless is way safer as it has 3 bolts holding the bars to the down tube vs one on a gooseneck style that is held by a spreading thingamajig.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Interesting. For me ive not had a bike since I was younger and they were all threaded. To me threadless just seems unsafe and weak especially for something you would be driving around at 20+ mph.

In any case I got on amazon this morning and found a Sunlite Deluxe Springer fork in 1 1/8" threadless (cant find a threaded one other than 1" which is what I originally ordered).

Now I just have to figure out how you set one of these up properly. I heard you have to cut the head tube on the fork down to size.

Rusty, Yep, step one is get the threadless headset with the bearings get a dog bone that will fit your handlebars and the 1/1/8 tube. Also don't forget to make sure you have the fork tube spine nut that gets pounded in about 1/2 " down the tube after its cut. Once your headset is installed with bearings and any optional spacers and then dogbone for your preference height. It just get all manually pushed together so everything is seated then measure and mark with a sharpie just at the top of the dog bone as your cut will be like a 1/4 inch below that line as it gives it slack to be tightened down using the top ufo shaped washer that has a allen head screw that threads into the spline nut. Tighten up the UFO washer as it pushes against the dogbone. This sets your preferred bearing tightness.
when you cut your down tube use a cheap hacksaw or a dremel with the cut off saw blade. make a straight cut is my only advice on cutting. Just enjoy the learning curve as I was in the same boat not messing with bikes in 40 years but you will love your GT2A for so many reasons. Trust me you will love the threadless system plus that Sunlit fork you bought is stellar and is my favorite, if you need photos or parts pictures or links I can get those done tonight for you, sorry for the delay on response but we had severe storm damage to my house and thousands of houses sunday morn and we are all in clean up mode still with.broken windows, roof damage, trees down and everybody's house looks like it was shot up with a machine gun from huge hail and high winds.

The head set included with the frame has one or two of those stars in it. I just got my 1" threaded Sunlite fork I have to send that one back get my $150 back on that. I am how ever looking at ST-0011 VO threadless stem for my setup as it is chrome and vintage looking. I am also looking at the Sunlite vintage cruiser handle bars they are 1" but before I make those purchases I want to double check the size handle bars required for the throttle grip.

Its no rush on it, I was just wondering as I am trying for a retro style Indian Motor Bicycle but want it to look vintage even if its not.

 

[KCvale]

In any case I got on amazon this morning and found a Sunlite Deluxe Springer fork in 1 1/8" threadless (cant find a threaded one other than 1" which is what I originally ordered). So I have a 1 1/8" threadless fork coming.

I like those forks, twin forks, twin spins, and disc brake mount.

Not sure if I should paint the frame first assemble the headset then get a measurement on the fork and have it cut or go and paint the fork first then have it cut.
Think I might take it to a bike shop as I don't think a hacksaw would give me a square enough cut.

Now I just have to figure out how you set one of these up properly. I heard you have to cut the head tube on the fork down to size.

Well I placed another order on amazon (prime is great in this sense) I purchased a SG6 threadless saw guide so I can cut the fork myself. I also bought a star setter for the threadless star.

I don't know how I am going to do the math this site I came across talks about but I will do my best to figure it out. But from my reading I have to have a dogbone for the handle bar and any spacers I want before I can properly cut the fork.

Paint your frame first.
Take the dual forks apart by removing one both on each sides connecting plates at the bottom.

You mount the inner fork by itself like any other fork, then attach the springer fork part back to it.

As for cutting any remaining head tube, I do right on the bike with angle grinder and cutting wheel.

These are the only springers I feel safe on, and they actually do work a little.

Anyway, they work dandy on the GT2A gas tank frame.

 

[tommer2]

VERY NICE.

 

[KCvale]

VERY NICE.

Thanks for kudos.

I made a red one too, not candy apple like the topic authors, but not bad.

Ride 40mph, Stop in 4 seconds.

 

[Rusty_S85]

I wanted to ask the original author of this post where he got his chain guard for the drive chain. I am thinking I would like to use that on my build as well as the fenders. I have heard lots of horror stories about how hard it is to mount fenders on the front of the bike with dual springer forks.

 

[KCvale]

I wanted to ask the original author of this post where he got his chain guard for the drive chain.
I am thinking I would like to use that on my build as well as the fenders.

I like a chain guard and big fenders too.

Most bike shops will have plenty, do you have a local bicycle shop?