My first motorized bike build-four stroke honda

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cooperDG123

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Apr 16, 2012
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Jack shaft is 100% complete. Next is chain tensioners any one know of a good place to start for that? Skateboard wheel? Spring loaded?
 

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MotorBicycleRacing

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Jul 28, 2010
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SoCal Baby!!!
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Thank you. Anywhere I can read more about the event? Do you have to be an adult to race? I'm 16.
You do not have to be an adult to race with Socal Motor Bicycle Racing.

Your parent or guardian needs to sign the race waiver.
You must wear all the required safety gear.
That's it...our youngest racer is 8 and there are quite a few racers
that are under 18 years old.

Will get you all the info about the Oct 17th race soon.
thanks.
 

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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The top lever will shift up and the lower lever will downshift.
Shouldn't be to hard to rig up with just brake cable.
Switching steen levers isn't as hard as I thought it would be.
The only possible problem I see is not having enough travel or pulling power with the cables.
Correct, that is the problem with trying to shift with a handlebar lever.
Not near enough travel or hand strength to move that shift mech like it is for say a 3-speed internal bike hub.

You could fashion a long shift arm to the shifter output and have plenty of mechanical advantage to shift with a really long push / pull lever sort of like Rat Rod comics used.







Then again if you have some seriously long strong arms you can just reach down...



Hehehe, I love those old comics.http://motorbicycling.com//www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/
 

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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yep...its starting to sound like a suicide shifter is my only option. Those comics are nuts!
Heheh, ya, I grew up with Rat Rod posters and toys.

It is not your only option, you can fashion an electric solenoid system to move the shifter but far from cheap.
 

cooperDG123

New Member
Apr 16, 2012
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Heheh, ya, I grew up with Rat Rod posters and toys.

It is not your only option, you can fashion an electric solenoid system to move the shifter but far from cheap.
Sounds Like an idea for gen 2. Hopefully after i finish this build I'll start another with similar design with a bunch of improvements.
 

cooperDG123

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Apr 16, 2012
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I went for a test run today (If you can call it that) and immediately stripped the fixed gear side of my hub, this is the side the engine drives. My drive sprocket on the wheel uses the threads from a fixed drive sprocket. The locking ring that goes on after the sprocket completely stripped the hub threads. I'm not sure what to do now. Maybe a 29er hub with a sprocket hub adapter? Would this work? I don't think the aluminum hub threads can hold up to the tourqe of the engine.
 

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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Phoenix,AZ
I went for a test run today (If you can call it that) and immediately stripped the fixed gear side of my hub
Maybe a 29er hub with a sprocket hub adapter? Would this work? I don't think the aluminum hub threads can hold up to the torque of the engine.
Well, I suggest you look at how MotoPed builds their drive trains.
The whole frame for that matter if you want to play with big engines.







That is just an 88cc 3-speed 4-stroke but the frame will take much larger engines as will the drive train as it is essentially a nice full suspension dirt bike... with pedals.

$2K for the rolling frame.

I finally sold that thing.
 

BarelyAWake

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Jul 21, 2009
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I went for a test run today (If you can call it that) and immediately stripped the fixed gear side of my hub, this is the side the engine drives. My drive sprocket on the wheel uses the threads from a fixed drive sprocket. The locking ring that goes on after the sprocket completely stripped the hub threads. I'm not sure what to do now. Maybe a 29er hub with a sprocket hub adapter? Would this work? I don't think the aluminum hub threads can hold up to the tourqe of the engine.
Any disc brake hub w/your main drive sprocket drilled & bolted to the rotor mounts outa work;



http://www.amazon.com/Quando-Orbea-6-Bolt-135mm-Shimano/dp/B00Y1N1Q1O/

...which hub depending ofc on your dropout width & spoke count, I linked that one only to show they needn't be costly ($17 lol) & I've used the Quando brand before, they're fine for the pennies ;)
 

KCvale

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Feb 28, 2010
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Phoenix,AZ
I wouldn't use that hub for a rear wheel, it's a really thin axle and quick-release fastening.
You want a fat axle with good cap nuts and use an axle stay on the drive side to keep it in place.

Busting a sprocket mount is one thing, ripping your rear wheel out from under you riding has a considerably less friendly outcome.
 

BarelyAWake

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Jul 21, 2009
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...The whole frame for that matter if you want to play with big engines.
I think you're forgetting it's a 49cc four stroker in a road bike;

...It's got a four stroke Honda 50cc 3 speed engine out of a crf50.
...one I'm quite familiar with in fact but yes, they provide solid axle disc brake hubs as well, if you're so inclined - point being the rotor mount utilized as a sprocket mount, an inexpensive, clean & simple solution ;)


cooperDG123 - I would presume your CRF50 3sp is autoclutched, yes?
 
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cooperDG123

New Member
Apr 16, 2012
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cali
I think you're forgetting it's a 49cc four stroker in a road bike;



...one I'm quite familiar with in fact but yes, they provide solid axle disc brake hubs as well, if you're so inclined - point being the rotor mount utilized as a sprocket mount, an inexpensive, clean & simple solution ;)


cooperDG123 - I would presume your CRF50 3sp is autoclutched, yes?
Yes it is a 3 speed auto clutch. Although it is a 4 stroke 49cc these little engines have a surprising amount of torque first gear, enough to do a standing burnout.

I have think I have fixed my hub problem for now. The lock ring that I had on before was junk, Chinese cheese. I thought I had striped the hub but in reality it was just the lock ring. The hub threads were still in pretty good shape. After replacing the ring and plenty of locktite it seems to hold pretty well....well enough to do a burnout lol. I only was trying to test the drive train not the incomplete frame so I never went more than 10mph

Now that my drive train seems to be solid, I can finish the frame. I still have to do the bottom frame tubes shown mocked up in the first pic.

Does anyone know where I can get some 1" od tubing in LA?

Anyone have any ideas for a gas tank?

Thanks for all the help guys