HS142 is suddenly unhappy, bogging/sputtering at high RPM

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Ooontzler

New Member
Feb 24, 2014
57
0
0
Bay Area, CA
So, something weird happened with my trusty ride.

Bike's been absolutely perfect since this time last year, probably has a few hundred miles on it, HS142 engine with a Q-matic drive and a (actually rather impressive) multi-speed/jackshaft setup. Was really challenging to engineer, but once I got it working it ran like a spotted ape...until now. The other day I went to go up a moderately steep hill, no steeper than the hills I'd been up 50 times around here, and while I could tell the engine was really working hard it buzzed right up and everything was fine.

A few minutes after that I pulled over to look at my phone, and I noticed that the bike was making a squeaking sound - like metal grinding somewhere. Wasn't too loud, but I hadn't heard it before. I thought it might be the spring on the belt tensioner inside the Q-matic, which (on my particular Q-matic) rests really close to the flywheel and in the past when dust has built up inside it rubs against the wheel ever so slightly and makes an audible sound.

I didn't think much of it until the ride home, when my engine started sputtering and bucking around when getting up to speed. It did it even worse when going the not-nearly-as-steep hill near my house, almost to the point where the engine stalled out. Thought maybe it had to do with high humidity, as my bike doesn't like humidity and it was rather humid/foggy at that point.

Well, the problem got worse. Now it will sputter and bog at even the slightest incline - engine will go from buzzing along at ~5k RPM happily to dropping below 2500 (and causing the clutch to half-engage, which can't be good for it). It feels like it's not getting enough gas, but it only does it when going up (now even mild) hills. I've tried thus far:

  • Disassembling the carb completely (jet, float, etc), blasting the heck out of it with carb cleaner, re-assembling
  • Removing all the chains (this beast has 3!), making sure they're completely free of road grime and old grease, re-greasing, re-installing
  • Complete flush of fuel system, fresh gas from the corner gas station (that I've used before without issue)
  • Cleaning off the layer of very fine black dust that's accumulated on the Q-matic unit and the inside of the plastic belt cover
  • Running through a full tank of fuel with gas + fuel system cleaning additive (slightly more additive than recommended...)
  • Played with lots of settings with the mixture screw - from super lean to super rich, performance only gets worse on either end of that spectrum


I think it's still the carb and maybe it needs another cleaning and maybe even replacing... but... the timing just seemed weird, with all of this happening right after tackling a hill. Everyone knows correlation =/= causation, but it's still suspicious.

Anyone hit something like this before?
 

Slogger

Member
Sep 8, 2014
544
4
18
nohio
When the load on an engine goes up, like climbing a hill, the combustion pressure goes up in the cylinder. The additional pressure might (only might, now) be taxing your ignition or even just the spark plug. Fouling or internal damage to it might cause poor running under load. I had a '77 XLCH Sportster in the day that would reach 110 like nothing then burble out on me. It was one of the plugs. Before going into the engine I would try a fresh plug in it, and clean the air filter.
It couldn't hurt.
 

Ooontzler

New Member
Feb 24, 2014
57
0
0
Bay Area, CA
When the load on an engine goes up, like climbing a hill, the combustion pressure goes up in the cylinder. The additional pressure might (only might, now) be taxing your ignition or even just the spark plug. Fouling or internal damage to it might cause poor running under load. I had a '77 XLCH Sportster in the day that would reach 110 like nothing then burble out on me. It was one of the plugs. Before going into the engine I would try a fresh plug in it, and clean the air filter.
It couldn't hurt.
Just ordered a new one, thanks for the suggestion! Will report back on how it goes.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
New spark plug did it, everything is right in the engine and in the world. Thanks!
The NGK 7544 (CR7HIX) Iridium plug really wakes these engines up.

So does loosing the stock can exhaust for pretty much anything else, even a 2-stroke pipe.

It would be a good time to set your valves too.
It's easy if you have a set of metric feeler gauges.
Set the carb side intake to .04mm and the exhaust side to .06mm
 

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,194
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Maine
Iridium plugs are utilized for their longevity & anti-fouling properties, they don't create more power magically or otherwise.

Any quality plug, provided only that it's clean and properly gapped will provide an equivalent ignition source. Any claim otherwise is simply spam.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
Iridium plugs are utilized for their longevity & anti-fouling properties, they don't create more power magically or otherwise.

Any quality plug, provided only that it's clean and properly gapped will provide an equivalent ignition source. Any claim otherwise is simply spam.
That's right, it's NOT Magic, it is a longer plug thus creating a bit more compression.

They also come with a pre-set gap for the high quality ignition gap materials which actually do make for a tad bit better consistent spark.

I have proved this consistently in hands on tests with every plug the same day in the same conditions in the same engine.

Say it's not worth it if you want, just don't go saying I don't know what I'm talking about when I have done the actual comparisons and seen the difference again and again myself.
 

BarelyAWake

New Member
Jul 21, 2009
7,194
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Maine
I never said you don't know what you're talking about, I simply said "Iridium plugs are utilized for their longevity & anti-fouling properties" & that anything else is hype. Even NGK themselves have said no differently... aside ofc from claiming ALL their plugs "increase performance" lol

I'm pretty sure you know what you're saying, that you may even believe you can "see the difference again and again" in a "bit more compression" (not that a longer plug is exclusive to NGK iridium) or "a tad bit better consistent spark" (also not exclusive to NGK iridium)... I'm not exactly sure what bionic implants you may posses that would enable such an amazing diagnostic ability, one that rivals even the best of dynamometers in incremental displays but hey, if they make you happy so be it.

I even run NGK iridiums myself, I'm just reluctant to mislead our members into thinking they're going to gain anything other then longevity as any new, quality plug properly gapped will provide a consistent ignition, the OP's issue at hand.
 

KCvale

Well-Known Member
Feb 28, 2010
3,966
57
48
Phoenix,AZ
I don't know, I haven't messed with Honda engines, I suppose you have to compare plugs from each for size, but since the HS engines are virtual closes I would think so.

And I concede BA's point.
Similar, less expensive spark plugs can give the same performance.

It is both BA's and my opinion that the extra couple of bucks for the Iridium is worth never having to mess the plug again and why I put them in everything I build as part of the build cost.