Black Betty...

Black Betty... Micargi Mustang GTS

Here it goes...
Started with a Micargi Mustang GTS with 68 spoke wheels.
Replaced rear wheel with 36 spoke,12 gauge heavy duty.
This allowed me to utilize a sprocket adapter with 36 teeth.
 

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Then I purchased a engine kit, and removed the cylinder and head.
I discovered this new engine had 2 thick base gaskets installed from factory.
I mapped the stock porting , cleaned up the ports, and re-installed with 1 base gasket. I also installed a Fred Head.
 

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The Fred Head will raise compression, and looks great!
Because I have so much room available, I decided to move the engine forward.
Here it is with temporary shims, and chain tensioner.
 

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As you can see, this Micargi frame has a lot of room to work with!

At this point, everything is temporary....

Id like to move the engine a few MORE inches forward, and up ANOTHER inch or so.

But the shimming has to stop!

Its time to consider fabricating a pair of weld-in motor mounts.

Ive got some steel tubing ordered.

Also have a wide crank kit on the way....
 

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Woah-Oh!
Black Betty!
Blam-ba-lam!
She's so Rocksteady!
Blam-Ba-Laaam!


looking really nice, you are probably right about using a welded mount rather than those shims. check out Motakitty's thread, his buuld is on a similar bike, you may just want to gawk as his mounts.


Well, she's shakin that thing, Blam-ba-lam!
Boy, she makes me sing, Blam-ba-lam!
Woah-Oh!
 
Oh yeah, the shims gotta go. They detract from the rest of the bike which is so very nice. Low and black and that's the secret to lookin' good!

Keep us posted on the mounts. You're on the right track.

Tom
 
That's actually the same front mount I have but my motor is lower and no shims.nice looking bike. Micargi has some nice looking rides. My wife almost got one if she was able to find it in stock. She ended up with a huffy.
 
Very nice looking bike... yeah, lose the shims for sure, you can use some aluminum bar stock to make spacers out of that would look better and like it belongs there... steel tubing notched and welded in would look good too. The use of one or 2 spacers for chain adjustment wouldn't look bad if cleaned up to match the solid mount blocks.
 
Received my tubing today, and began to fabricate the motor mounts.
I carefully aligned the chain and motor, and tack welded the mounts.
Ive got about 1/8" clearance between the drive chain and the rear leg of frame...
Very close. I hope I have enough clearance that the drive chain does not rub the frame???
If it rubs, I will need to lower the engine.

I wanted the engine up high, so I could utilize the pedal chain without a tensioner.
The chain guard will need to be modified or deleted however.
 

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I finished welding the motor mounts.
Installed the fuel tank, chain guard, and wiring.
Then I took her on her maiden voyage!
I put about 1 mile on it, with no issues!
Now its time to think about a custom, in-frame fuel tank, and then a coat of gloss black paint!
 

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Thanks guys!
This forum and its members were very helpful.
Motakitty was very inspirational as well, as he built a very similar bike.
I do plan on re-inforcing the fender braces, and re-installing both front and rear fenders.
Then, as I mentioned earlier, Id like to fabricate an in-frame fuel tank, and paint it gloss black.
Then I have a retro style headlight, tail light, and .....
Does it ever end?
 

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Thanks for those kind words. I removed one of the rear fender braces but I want to put it back I just didn't like how it bent around the frame. Seemed more like an after thought to me.
 
Hey can you get a pic of the engine chain side for me. On mine the chain rubs the frame slightly I just wanted to see how yours is. I think raising the motor slightly will fix it.
 
Motakitty,
Here are some pics.
Hope they help.
Where exactly is your chain rubbing?
Seat post, or rear leg?
 

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