99cc rack mount 3 speed spoke drive MTB

[silverbear]

I've never used cardboard myself. I buy a small amount of gasket material from Napa. Yes, a little oil or grease, press down and you'll have a perfect pattern. You can make the holes with a drill bit twisted by hand. They don't need to be perfect, just good enough to make a seal. Scissors will cut the outside.
SB

 

[curtisfox]

You should invest in a Dremmel tool sure would help you. And also lipstick will also work like the oil same procedure.

Maybe go to u tube and search on how to make gaskets. Cardboard has been used for years for gaskets,back in the days when money was really tight...LOL.............Curt

 

[dtv5403]

I got close on my first attempt although the port hole didn't come out very straight, I didn't even attempt the bolt holes yet. Cut out the port hole with sewing scissors. But I realized I will still need the baffle. Both flat parts of the manifold are perfectly round, making it nearly impossible to make the manifold fit the intake port. The baffle will eliminate this problem, so I will post an ad in swap and shop and see if anyone has one. Thanks very much though for your help, guys!

 

[dtv5403]

Alternatively, if anyone would like to take a crack at making a thermal baffle and some gaskets for me, I'd gladly pay a reasonable price. The baffle and gaskets only need be the same size and shape as the intake port, so for someone who is good at doing that type of stuff, probably not too hard for them. If no one wants to or thinks they can do it economically, thats ok I understand. If I could find the right material, I might attempt it myself but I really dont know what to use, but like I said I'll gladly pay a reasonable price so if anyone wants to take a crack at it, feel free to contact me about it through private message.

 

[dtv5403]

not all plastic is heat resistant, so Im not sure what to use for the baffle, not even sure whats around my home besides shoe rubber thats even remotely a possibility.

 

[dtv5403]

Didn't mean to hijack your thread there, silverbear. So my dog had this little tire that he never chewed on, made of very hard, fiber reinforced rubber. It is just thick enough to provided the space I need between the cylinder and the intake manifold. I already cut a section out, which was no small task. Started with a serrated kitchen knife and finished with scissors, squeezed hard enough to hurt my hands. Also think I will use notebook backing to make gaskets. First attempt with pieces of cardboard box didn't fly too high.

 

[a_dam]

Also think I will use notebook backing to make gaskets. First attempt with pieces of cardboard box didn't fly too high.

Nobody is trying to cut gaskets out of corrugated cardboard, right? Someone earlier mentioned cereal box cardboard. Or notebook backing. That's the kind you want if you are gonna DIY (cheap).

I never had a shortage of 12-pack, case, or 30-pack beer boxes, so I've used that.

We have a Farm & Fleet by me that sells Mr. Gasket "fibre gasket material #9611" for about $5. It's a roll 9 X 36 inches; should be enough to last my lifetime of gasket cutting. Auto stores probably have it too.

Somebody mentioned plastic cutting boards. Not right for all applications, but a great resource for plastic stock. You can get them new for about 5 bucks.

It seems to me like fewer stores are selling metal and plastic sheets and shapes, so you either gotta buy everything online or go a little MacGyver.

 

[curtisfox]

Another little thing that might help is take some tubing like brake line,cut it in short pieces sharpen it with file,get block of end grain hard wood and just punch your holes,home made hole punches,LOL.

You could prooley find some really thin bigger tubing that is the same as the intake hole.............Curt

 

[silverbear]

While I wish you good luck with your gasket making, I think 17 posts on the subject is enough on this thread. If you need more help I'd suggest starting a new thread on that subject and as you can see, people will try to help you. Some time in the future you'll be the one explaining to a newbie how to make gaskets... we all start out not knowing how to do things. This is a good place to learn.

Now, back to our regular programming. Today I need to do some refining of the drop stand before drilling engine mount holes and such. I'd like to get the slots cut for the IGH spoke drive, cut the rail top for clearance of the inner jack shaft pulley and give the rails a coat of paint. Pictures will follow at the end of this process. Then it will be time to reassemble parts, align pulleys and figure out belt lengths to purchase. Within a week this should be a runner!
SB

 

[dtv5403]

I apologize for jacking your thread, sb. I was without sleep yesterday and didn't realize I'd made 17 posts. I decided not to make my own spacer or gaskets. I won't post about it in your thread anymore. Sorry again.

 

[silverbear]

That's okay. People do want to help, but it's best to start your own thread on the subject. People interested in following this thread are more interested in the original subject. Believe me, I have done the same myself... getting involved in someone else's thread and taking it off into another direction. Then I catch myself and start my own. No big deal.

Don't give up on the spacer and gasket. You can do it. And a day will come when you're explaining what to do to a newbie.

SB

 

[silverbear]

Made some more progress today. I cut the slots in the swing arms for mounting the hub drive and can see that the final drive pulley at the jackshaft and the driven pulley on the spoke hub drive are going to align well. The right side rail was also cut away to give the final drive pulley at the inside of the jackshaft clearance. I also have all of the parts for the new exhaust, just need to weld the flange to the street elbow, drill holes for bolts to hold the copper pieces together and mount it.

Not pictured are all of the pieces now dismantled and painted in flat black. I may give a coat of gloss enamel tomorrow and while that coat is drying see about further securing the swing arms as suggested by CB2 to keep the drive hub from wanting to twist. I think rather than welding I'll use a couple pieces of angle iron or L braces and flat plate with bolts to hold the pieces together. When all is dry I'll reassemble and then mark and drill holes for mounting the engine to the rails. Once the engine is mounted I can finish up the throttle, the gear shift, gas filter, adjust brakes, measure for belts and consider an idler pulley for the final drive belt. Getting closer.
SB

 

[cannonball2]

Cool milk crate in the first pic!
Looks like you are down to details now, I have heard that's where the Devil lives.
You will require quite a long gear cable. If you don't have one you can buy the Bell cable kit from Walmart. They are for multispeed hand brake bikes and include all cables in very long lengths for $6.99. The included derailleur cable should be long enough. Should work with your twist shifter. I make compatible cable ends by taking the red colored electrical crimp connectors, removing the outer plastic and trimming the connector down to only the little barrel that the wire crimps in. I then solder the barrel to the cable. This will also make throttle cables for the slide type carbs. Here also is a link to the Maytag showing how I used a cable ferule to interface the SA shifter chain incase you don't have the original parts. Build in plenty of cable adjustment. The second gear adjustment is a fine as a rats rear end hair on the older SAs. http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=607023&postcount=261

 

[silverbear]

CB2,
Thanks for the cable suggestions. I have a couple of the Bell kits, one of the better deals out there in bike parts. I had already made up a gear cable for the shifter out of a derailleur cable, but had the connector so will use a different melding of the two cables. Whatever works. Rainy day, so progress slows down some.
SB

 

[curtisfox]

Rainy day,is right thought it would be snowing up there,they perdicked it. Sure not good weather. It looks the same for the rest of the week,but we needed it. Now if it could just shift to CA.

I like that idea on the cables will have to pick up one when i trip to wallyworld next..........Curt

 

[silverbear]

Rainy day,is right thought it would be snowing up there,they perdicked it. Sure not good weather. It looks the same for the rest of the week,but we needed it. Now if it could just shift to CA.

I like that idea on the cables will have to pick up one when i trip to wallyworld next..........Curt

Ya, we finally got the rain we needed. Been a parched forest up until now. Snow tonight. Fishing was good the other day, but not the catching. Not a bite. It was still good to be out on the water. Wish I had a warm dry shop to work in. I'd like to do some painting.
SB

 

[curtisfox]

Think the water is still to cold? Yep always good to get out. Yes i know how hard it is to do anything in weather like this as i did it for years. Sure glad to have a spot to work in the last couple years,now if i could get the mess all cleaned up i would have more room. I would rather live here then down were its hot and dry...........Curt

 

[silverbear]

Too cold yet, yes. Perhaps the fish have not finished their studies and are still in school. It is a mystery, for sure.

Snow & rain forecast today so I think I'll bring the MTB into the trailer kitchen to put the rack & pulleys & such back together again. I managed to paint the parts with black enamel and made little hangers out of cut off spokes with the ends bent into hooks. Painted each item in a lull in the rain yesterday and then hung them inside the trailer on a clothesline I have strung along the ceiling for drying laundry. With the wood stove going to counter the cold rain the pieces have dried nicely and are ready to go.

So today will see it mostly together and tomorrow the sun king is to make a brief appearance for one day only in an otherwise wet stretch of doom & gloom. I'd like then to drill out the engine mounting slots, get it bolted down, cut & drill the flat plate to stabilize the swing arms, hook up the springs for pushing the spoke drive hub against the tire, finish the throttle hookup, same for the gear shifter and otherwise close in for the kill to get this project done. Then it can sit in the woodshed waiting for this monsoon weather to cease and desist. Be gone, be done... will ya! The rain has been a welcome and needed guest, but it is time to go back wherever it came from. The dog queen has let her wishes be known and I'm to have this machine gassed up and ready to ride with the royal carriage (kiddie trailer) connected, aired up and ready to roll. Vrooom! It is spring and the clock of the season is ticking... the pendulum swings... midsummer is coming and soon after the days shorten again to the time of more snow and cold and dark. And yes, Curt, I too am a northlander and could not live in the heat of the south or west. Summer in the lake country is a brief glory so grand that it makes up for the long cold dark. This forest is home, eh?
SB

 

[silverbear]

Today was the one day of the week forecast to be clear with sunshine which did not happen, but at least a few hours of the morning the rain held off and I was able to get some work done. With paint the rails look good and with everything bolted down it is quite solid. Swing arms still need to have a stabilizing plate to keep them from twisting under belt pressure, but that will come. Alignment looks good for drive hub to tire.

I was pleased with the spring loading of the swing arms. I used a pair of spokes from a 26" rim, a pair of springs from Ace hardware and two cable stops from an old 3 speed bike's caliper brakes. The spokes fit inside the cable stops and make the setup adjustable. Tighten down the nuts and the spokes are held fast. Rain started up again by afternoon so the bike is now in the wood shed.

For the twist grip shifter I ordered an assortment of 25 ball bearings for $5.00 with shipping from ebay. That includes 5 of them 1/8" in diameter or the equivalent in millimeters, which I'm pretty sure is the right size. Tuesday is the delivery date which is also the next time the rain is due to stop six days from now.

In the mean time I will focus on refinements to the drop stand catches which will be on the lower portion of the swing arms under the drive hub axle. The catches will be to hold the stand securely in the up or retracted position. I also need to figure out stops for the legs in the down position. Making a workable drop stand with derailleur hardware in the way has been problematic, but some further creative staring should yield results. The light bulb in me BB brain is flickering weakly as I write. Securing a top heavy bike from tip-overs is important! That will come before the engine gets bolted down, pulleys get locked into position and drive belts are purchased. Still thinking about idler pulleys. Curtis Fox included a few old ones of two types in with the hub and jack shaft pulleys. One type accepts the V side of the belt and the other is meant to put pressure on the flat back side.

First things first. Secure drop stand. Bolt down engine. Align and tighten down pulleys. Decide whether or not to use idler pulleys for maintaining belt pressure and if so, how to go about it. It will be easier to see how with everything in place. Then measure for belts and get them.

Question: What type of belt would be suitable here? Choices would be standard V belts, cogged belts or adjustable link belts? If the adjustable belts would work I'd be tempted to go that route as repairs would be simple and I could buy enough to also use on my grinder, table saw and such. Harbor Freight has a five foot length of 1/2" for $25.00 and with shipping a total of $31.00. With this type could I forget about idler pulleys?
http://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html
SB

 

[cannonball2]

Lookin really great SB! I too was missing the detent ball from the Shimano shifter on the Maytag. A BB worked fine. Like the use of the spokes on the stand! Great outside the box thinking.
Now a critique. I would replace the hubs arms with thicker metal. I am assuming they are 1/8"? Due to their length they will twist easily, even with a tie bar. I would think 3/16" would be ok. If $$ wont allow replacement then use two tie bars spaced equally from the two mount points one just above the hub and one below the rail mounts.

As to the belts I favor the adjustable version though I have never used one. Eliminating more systems like idlers is adding simplicity/reliability. The primary belt can be adjusted with slotted engine mount holes. The hub is not as forgiving. Its main setting is drive tension, the belt must then be worked around that. If the adjustable wont adjust exactly after the tension is set then probably an idler is necessary. There is plenty of space on the swing arm for it if necessary.

Don't forget to Loctite the hubs spokes. Looks like you are on the home stretch!