MotorBicycleRacing
Well-Known Member
Hi Johnny.
We are racing these bikes on Sat March 28th at Grange Motor Circuit in Apple Valley.
Come on out to join in the fun.
Motor Bikes Gurus! Lots of questions here!
- Thread starter VTECturbo-Bike89
- Start date
We are racing these bikes on Sat March 28th at Grange Motor Circuit in Apple Valley.
Come on out to join in the fun.
VTECturbo-Bike89
New Member
Thank you both so much I'm really stoked for starting to post up pictures is there an easier method for uploading pictures other than using photo bucket?
mapbike
Well-Known Member
click on go advanced right beside where you would normally click to post a message, when that screen comes up scroll down below where you would enter your text and youll see a buttom that says "manage attachments"
if your on a PC all you have to do is have the pix you would like to share saved in photos or wherever and then size it down in MS Paint to a size permitted on forum and just follow simple direction to upload.
I may not have done a good job explaining this here since its 3:40am and im on my phone at work but maybe you can overlook my bad explanations and get-ur done.
if your on a PC all you have to do is have the pix you would like to share saved in photos or wherever and then size it down in MS Paint to a size permitted on forum and just follow simple direction to upload.
I may not have done a good job explaining this here since its 3:40am and im on my phone at work but maybe you can overlook my bad explanations and get-ur done.
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VTECturbo-Bike89
New Member
Ok sorry to keep asking questions but I am finding SOOOO MANY DIFFERENT formulas for fuel/oil mixture for BREAK IN! honestly what should I do? i have found like literally 15 different methods.. can you guys tell me what works best with the chinese motors? Thanks in advance buddies! 
Ok so before you guys say I'm bashing, get the facts, norm is NOT responding to calls or texts from. So the customer service is ****. Second Norm works out of his house... His "shop" is his house, so why the the **** is he charing me 220 for a 130 dollar ebay kit? I said NOTHING bad about VMB up until I realized he didn't want to answer a few questions I had. I don't mean to come off looking as an ass to anyone here im just a little frustrated that I got boned with the price of this kit, I'm sure you guys would be too, regardless I apologize if I came off wrong to anyone. I hope the fact that I don't like ONE VENDOR gives me a bad name. And to whom ever is concerned about my language, don't you have to be atleast 16 or 18 or something? Your making me feel like I joined a Church forum about Jesus christ... Jeez dude it's not like I said something CRAZY offensive like F you B eat a D you Fing s-head and stuff like that.... It's just how I talk I tend to say "crap" and "Boned" but using their counter-part words. Regardless I see that people here obviously support VMB so im assuming that he has never asked you guys to give him an additional 90 bucks on top of the going rate... That's good im glad to hear that he does not "bone" everyone. Relieved to see that it's only me that was dumb enough to go there and pay an additional 90 bucks. I should of realized when he kept dodging the question "which brand is this" He never told me the brand because the brand is a Ebay special. As I said earlier im just venting to getting screwed over by trusting people, but it's my own fault. Anyways I hope you all can look past the rough start/intro we all got off on??and yes when asked nicely I CAN and will cool it with the language so apologies for that bud!
If your attitude is anything like you've shown here (at first) you won't get help from most businesses period. Similar to what Map said you will get more flies with honey, than with vinegar. I understand you wanna get your bike going but one thing you have to remember is this is a kit. They take a little work but will fit a remarkable amount of different frame styles. You are the first I've ever heard anything negative about VMB. Then to find out you haven't even started the motor and most of your problems sound like lack of research on your part. The only one who thinks you got "boned" is you. It's all about perspective. See where I'm going?...
You said yourself you're a newb and we have told you why the prices vary on these kits. They are not all the same. In fact there are a bunch of (I've heard over 100) factories making the parts for these kits. It's really hard to tell which factory unless you are the whole seller buying directly from the factory (which most shops aren't). Because they look so much alike the differences can be hard to tell but you will get the hang of it after tinkering and reading.
If you don't believe us go buy the cheapest kit you can find and tell us how that goes. You might as well flip a coin on whether or not you just wasted that $135 (depending on season) or whatever. That being said like Maniac said I too now use rose motors from ebay. Just because its made in china and on ebay doesn't mean its bad. Good kits can be found in all price ranges. Everyone's wants/needs are different.
As far as having a shop/business goes you even said yourself he has a garage. We know he has tools, inventory, parts, material, hardware, storage space, paperwork, computers, phones, website, his and other peoples time/labor, light/water/utility bills, sold some big projects in Hollywood and tons more. All of that is overhead and sounds like a legit "shop" to me.
Like others have said "NO" this is not a church site. Not allowing offensive language has nothing to do with religion. The reason I'm concerned about using a lot of curse words is everyone from young kids to older men and women from all over the world are into this hobby. I cuss in my day to day on occasion but this is just not the place for that. I wouldn't use those words around anyone who might be offended and we don't know who all reads this stuff. It's about respect. Plus its ****** to read a bunch of ********* every where.
Ok, there are two main differences in these 66cc kit motors. There are 38mm stroke aka gt5 style and variants (wrist pin is higher up in the piston). Then there is the 40mm stroke or PK80 and variants (wrist pin lower/closer to skirt). There is also a half-breed with parts from each. Other than those main things there are tons of different little changes that have been and keep getting done all the time (and most factories and even the same factories have different stuff all the time). For instance some have nicely balanced cranks from the factory and others don't. Some have better ports. Some may have better bearings in any location. Some have wider primary gears yadda yadda yadaa. You will learn it all if you hang around these guys.
Like I said I understand it can be frustrating but the juice is worth the squeeze and when you are cruisin this puppy down the road you wont be able to help from smiling from ear to ear. And the fact that you built it makes it that much better! All the little headaches and busted knuckles pay off. Take your time and if you get frustrated just walk away for a while. When you come back fresh you will figure it out easier, once you clear your head. If you have any questions and don't find the answer you need after searching. Then snap some well lit detailed pics of what you have questions about and we will help you out any way we can. Pics make helping a lot easier.
As far as looking past the rough start. Of course, as if it didn't happen. As far as asking you to cool the language nicely, I don't think I can be much nicer because I said "Lose the curse words please." How is that not nicely? I was doing you a favor by reminding you of the rules you should have read
. I'm not gonna apologize for something I didn't do. I will say I'm sorry you took it the wrong way. Sometimes its hard to get tone across typed words. Which can easily be misunderstood. It's all good no issues, happens to us all from time to time. Anyway, please cool the language kind sir, I would like to see your build and hopefully try to answer any further questions. Is that better BUD?!!!Peace
Trey
$50 Cruiser
VTECturbo-Bike89
New Member
You know that was such a big amount of information I'm just unsure of exactly what to do with all of that I think I really need to just stay exactly how to mix 30 to 1
mapbike
Well-Known Member
Just get you some good 2 smoker oil, mix it at 32:1 and run it like you plan to ride it once you know you have everything mounted right, aligned right and bike is puttogether safely.
after a tank or so you'll need to reduce jet size in carb to lean it out a bit, many of us solder and drill our own jets, which is a very simple process.
I will be happy to share more info here if need be on that, but it can all be easily found iby searching the topic in search feature.
VTECturbo-Bike89
New Member
Sweet thanks a lot man, so I'm sitting here really debating if I should run it oil richer more then 32:1 Cuz 4 ounces of oil to 1 gallon gas just seems way too low of oil...
run whatever oil/ gas ratio that runs best on the stock mainjet. once you find that/ the jetting gets alot easier and specific oil ratio can be fine tuned.
the 4 stroking is often a rich condition but very close. maybe only half a jet size to much as a guess.
try 30:1 and 40:1
the 4 stroking is often a rich condition but very close. maybe only half a jet size to much as a guess.
try 30:1 and 40:1
mapbike
Well-Known Member
In my experience about two or three jet sizes down has always worked best on my engines, but I run a much leaner oil mix, and there are other factors that go along with it also.
My opinion is that of course amount of oil in mix is important but it is also important that the oil be of good quality and dont use oil that is specifically designed for a water cooled engine, use an oil that is for air cooled engines such as what is used in chainsaws and weed wackers etc...
Davezilla
New Member
I also run a much leaner oil mix... 100:1 but you can't do that with just any 2 stroke oil... You can get good 2 stroke oils at your local hardware stores like those small bottles of Echo chainsaw oil that are just the right size to mix with a gallon of gas, but most good namebrand lawn and garden equipment also carry their own brand of 2 stroke oil in those convenient "add bottle to a gallon of gas" sizes, these are usually perfect for 32:1 or 40:1 and the oils are usually rebranded oils from larger oil companes so the stuff is good.
If you got a Northern Tools in your area, you can also buy the VP premix in either 2 liter or gallon sized cans, this stuff is basically higher octane alcohol free gasoline mixed with a high quality 2 stroke oil, it's a bit pricy, but it's convenient and saves you from having to do the mixing. I think they sell it in 91, 94, and 100 octane and the 91 octane is the cheapest but that's really all you need in a stock engine if you go this way, otherwise 87 octane pump gas works best for a Stock engine and like I mentioned, you can buy the oil in those tiny bottles and just pour into a gallon of gas, shake it up and you're set.
You can also get stuff like Amsoil for a safe 50:1 mix or Opti2 for a safe 100:1 mix, but to keep things simple, just get the 32 or 40:1 oils in the small "mix with 1 gallon of gas" size bottles. If you have or can get a ratio cup, then you can buy the stuff in the quart size to save a little money. Don't use the marine type 2 stroke oils tho, they're not designed to run at the temperatures these engines run at.
Map is also right about rejetting your carb after break in and he does have a real easy method to re drill your jets when it comes time to tune your engine later on after you've run a few tanks of fuel thru it.
For break in, you'll get a TON of different suggestions... they all work, so pick one that says ride it like you plan on riding it... You need to put a good load on the engine to properly seat the rings.... Most important step during break in is to NOT let the engine get too hot... pretty much everything else you can get away with. also, Don't baby it either or let it run at a steady rpm for the first several rides, just lots of full throttle blasts, but don't let it linger at high rpm and keep your first rides under 10 minutes and stay close to home because your bike won't be as easy to pedal with the engine attached to it... You can venture out further once you got the chain aligned really well and once you're sure it won't break down on you because of junk in the carb or fuel tank etc... Which also reminds me to remind you to clean out that tank really good before installing it... it seems they like to give you a few extra metal shavings, paint chips, pieces of plastic and paper etc in those tanks before they send them to us over here in the U. S...
Once you got at least 5 posts the site will let you upload pics, I just use imageshack.com to store mine and link them into the pages, but there are other methods like mentioned above...
If you got a Northern Tools in your area, you can also buy the VP premix in either 2 liter or gallon sized cans, this stuff is basically higher octane alcohol free gasoline mixed with a high quality 2 stroke oil, it's a bit pricy, but it's convenient and saves you from having to do the mixing. I think they sell it in 91, 94, and 100 octane and the 91 octane is the cheapest but that's really all you need in a stock engine if you go this way, otherwise 87 octane pump gas works best for a Stock engine and like I mentioned, you can buy the oil in those tiny bottles and just pour into a gallon of gas, shake it up and you're set.
You can also get stuff like Amsoil for a safe 50:1 mix or Opti2 for a safe 100:1 mix, but to keep things simple, just get the 32 or 40:1 oils in the small "mix with 1 gallon of gas" size bottles. If you have or can get a ratio cup, then you can buy the stuff in the quart size to save a little money. Don't use the marine type 2 stroke oils tho, they're not designed to run at the temperatures these engines run at.
Map is also right about rejetting your carb after break in and he does have a real easy method to re drill your jets when it comes time to tune your engine later on after you've run a few tanks of fuel thru it.
For break in, you'll get a TON of different suggestions... they all work, so pick one that says ride it like you plan on riding it... You need to put a good load on the engine to properly seat the rings.... Most important step during break in is to NOT let the engine get too hot... pretty much everything else you can get away with. also, Don't baby it either or let it run at a steady rpm for the first several rides, just lots of full throttle blasts, but don't let it linger at high rpm and keep your first rides under 10 minutes and stay close to home because your bike won't be as easy to pedal with the engine attached to it... You can venture out further once you got the chain aligned really well and once you're sure it won't break down on you because of junk in the carb or fuel tank etc... Which also reminds me to remind you to clean out that tank really good before installing it... it seems they like to give you a few extra metal shavings, paint chips, pieces of plastic and paper etc in those tanks before they send them to us over here in the U. S...
Once you got at least 5 posts the site will let you upload pics, I just use imageshack.com to store mine and link them into the pages, but there are other methods like mentioned above...
VTECturbo-Bike89
New Member
Okay so I know that I should be searching for all this stuff but it's just really nice being able to talk to you guys and get a exact reply on what is going on with the bike versus what's kind of going on because every situation that I read on here it's not exactly 100% of a match to what's going on to my bike or if it's similar it's things that I have may be already tried and stuff like that. So here we go. I noticed that my bike stalls out every single time I pulled a clutch and the only way it will idle is if clutch is out and also it's rolling in gear with the school obviously that's the only way I can somewhat get a title yet if I slow down too much or even pull the clutch in it automatically stalls out I check the spark plug to make sure it's not oil filed and it actually was but that's only fromThe old gas tank having way too much oil in it so I fix that problem in the spark plug is no longer fouled out but it's still dies out as soon as it goes into idol I have not messed with the Jets or the choke or any other adjustment that might be on the carburetor is there anything I can try to see if I can fix this because it's getting really annoying having to restart the bike especially if I'm going uphill then I'm basically screwed
Davezilla
New Member
Yup... Mike beat me to it...
I'm sure you see now why its better to be free to ask questions and talk to us because even tho searching is a good thing because sometimes the answers given innother posts don't completely match your question or they didn't explain in enough detail to fully answer your specific questions and that's why I never make someone search unless I give an explanation but want the person to compare what I said against other's experiences or explanations... I still prefer the asker meets me half way and does some reading or searching but I'll never hold back answers if someone needs to know something now and don't have time to look stuff up. I know others may not agree with this but most of us will just give the answer without any hassles.
I'm sure you see now why its better to be free to ask questions and talk to us because even tho searching is a good thing because sometimes the answers given innother posts don't completely match your question or they didn't explain in enough detail to fully answer your specific questions and that's why I never make someone search unless I give an explanation but want the person to compare what I said against other's experiences or explanations... I still prefer the asker meets me half way and does some reading or searching but I'll never hold back answers if someone needs to know something now and don't have time to look stuff up. I know others may not agree with this but most of us will just give the answer without any hassles.
VTEC,
These other guys have given great advise. But if turning your idle screw in a bit doesn't help your issue. Try loosening the clutch flower nut a little (inside primary drive cover). Sometimes it can be a little tight(or loose) at first. If its too tight then it wont fully disengage, which will make your engine bog out at idle with the clutch lever in. If that don't help look at making cable adjustments at the lever, at the grease bung under carb that clutch cable goes threw, or your lever on the sprocket cover.
I agree with you(vtec) and Dave. Searching is for general questions and actually asking is what helps hammer out the details. And to me that and sharing all opinions to consider, IMHO is what make this place great. Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see some pics of your ride. You can load pics directly from your pc or like other said a pic site and using the link. IMGUR is another good easy pic site to use.
Peace
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VTECturbo-Bike89
New Member
Yeah dude I agree with you 100% honestly most people spend more energy explaining to use the search menu and how to use it and where to search and what not when it would probably be 10 times faster just to simply write screw and the idle screw you know what I mean I really like talking to people about my exact problem because I may not have the same questions that the other person had and honestly I realize I end up losing sometimes triple the time by searching around other threads and end up getting nowhere then finally end up getting a answer when I ask so I stopped wasting my time because I was searching this for about an hour and a half with no results of exactly situation like mine. Does anyone know if there's a specific thread for Southern California locations where people get together and do cruises or meats and stuff like that for bikes mopeds and whatnot
bluegoatwoods
Active Member
Both absolutely correct!
It's true that I happen to think that anyone who is serious about learning how to maintain one of these bikes is going to do some searching. After all, waiting on answers is also time consuming.
But if we carried the command to search to it's logical end, then once a question is answered no one should ask it again. That'd be silly. It would kill the forum, in fact.
Going over subjects that have already been covered not only 'hammers out the details' it gives a chance at more food for thought. For instance.......
I just happen to be breaking in a new engine right now. It's only been five days and, probably, less than 30 miles. It's not idling.
I haven't been all that concerned about it. I figure that once I get it broken in, then I'd adjust idle or maybe start messing with my intake. Get it idling one way or another.
But it hadn't occurred to me that a clutch that is not totally dis-engaging could be the culprit. I might have thought of it on my own. But it might have taken me a long time.
I read threads like this, and others, in the hope that I might help. But there's also a subconscious, I guess, hope that I'll learn something too. And I just did.
So a newbie can ask, "What's a spark plug?" and I'll never tire of answering. It's okay. Even if that thread goes no where I was able to be of some kind of help. And if the thread comes alive, then I have a chance of picking up something interesting. That's just fine with me.
So thanks for the flower nut hint. Who was that? Hot Rod, I think.