No white wire from coil

T

toytime

New Member
I just noticed that I have only blue and black wires coming from the coil. Where will I hook my kill switch to?
My kill switch is the one that is built into the throttle and has yellow and black.
Is my coil a reject? Should I send it back?
 
The white wire comes from the magneto (engine) not the CDI. From the Engine there is a blue, a black and a white. Connect the blue to the blue and the black to the black from the CDI then splice these with the wires from the kill switch. The white wire, unless you plan to try powering a light with it, should be capped and left unused. Don't be concerned with the different colors from your kill switch.
I'll attach a diagram (courtesy of Chris Hill at Home of the CH bicycle engine, CH80 Bicycle Engine Kits by Chris Hill, Motorized Bicycles, Bike Engine, Bike Motor, Bicycle Motor kit). (The grey circles where the wires meet indicate splices)
Tom
 

Attachments

  • Electrical Diagram.jpg
    Electrical Diagram.jpg
    43.5 KB · Views: 507
Last edited:
you dont need the kill switch, just let the clutch out slowly. many people have had problems with the kill switch. if you want one get a toggle switch and use it to break you cdi circut, open the black to black or blue to blue.
 
The wires from the kill switch go to the blue & black from mag...doesn't matter which one.

Mag 2 CDI...Blue 2 Blue..Black to Black. Or Green to Blue if you have a green wire from mag.

Never heard of no white wire (?) But you should only need it if you want to run lights or something.
 
toytime said:
Thanks, I feel stupid right now and am laughing at myself - sorry!
I don't know what I was thinking.
Click to expand...
Toy,
It takes a big man to admit when he's wrong...but of course having never made a mistake in my whole life its a little hard to empathize...:)
 
I've made mistakes and do at least 10 times a day( low count) if I ain't frucking up I feel like I've not had a good day.:-||
Norman
 
i put my kill switch from the frame w/ one wire and the other to the white wire seems to work fine is there a problem w/ doing it that way?
 
you don't want to ground your white wire its not designed for that. The kill switch should be wired 1 into blue wire the other into the black. Blue and black are one circuit the white is a different one.

the white wire should be capped off and tapped shut.
 
m0ck5 said:
i put my kill switch from the frame w/ one wire and the other to the white wire seems to work fine is there a problem w/ doing it that way?
Click to expand...

I have mine wired this way with well over 1000 miles. It is also the way the instructions said to wire it up from Grubee. I dont think it matters.wee. which way it is wired, as I have seen both, but if you want to connect a light to the white wire you might want to hook the kill switch to the blue.

.wee.
 
MB,

Actually m0ck5's set-up is fine. I actually prefer to ground the white wire because it is not directly connected to the CDI. On the off chance that static was discharged at the kill switch, it could ruin the CDI.

The blue wire is connected to a coil of about 3000 turns, the other end of this coil is connected to the coil frame.

The white wire is connected to a coil of about 300 turns, the other end of this coil is connected to the coil frame.

Shorting either coil will produce the same effect...the engine stops.

Jim
 
well finally someone that actually explained the difference thanks Jim. Many things bounce around the forum without a direct enough answer.
 
now that I kind of know how may turns on that coil is the white wire wound on first? and is the wire the same size in dia. as the rest of the windings?
I have an extra coil but couldn't bring myself to tearing it up to find out how many turns etc.
Did you find any type of trigger in the coil windings? something has to trigger the cdi.
I can put a timing light on the ignition and see that the timing will change with rpms I have not got too involved with it as I'm not that excited about changing these engines anymore than I've already done. We need a good reliable easy starting and good pulling engine to keep with the letter of the law in most places it should not go more than 20 mph. mine will all exceed that so I've used a gps and watched how fast and what sound is comming out of the bike to know if I'm speeding or not.
But hotrodding is in almost all of us, got to make it faster! I've heard the saying if two guys had a snail in their pocket by the end of the day they would be racing them.I'm rambling so I quit.
Norman
 
Norman said:
now that I kind of know how may turns on that coil is the white wire wound on first? and is the wire the same size in dia. as the rest of the windings?
I have an extra coil but couldn't bring myself to tearing it up to find out how many turns etc.
Did you find any type of trigger in the coil windings? something has to trigger the cdi.
I can put a timing light on the ignition and see that the timing will change with rpms I have not got too involved with it as I'm not that excited about changing these engines anymore than I've already done. We need a good reliable easy starting and good pulling engine to keep with the letter of the law in most places it should not go more than 20 mph. mine will all exceed that so I've used a gps and watched how fast and what sound is comming out of the bike to know if I'm speeding or not.
But hotrodding is in almost all of us, got to make it faster! I've heard the saying if two guys had a snail in their pocket by the end of the day they would be racing them.I'm rambling so I quit.
Norman
Click to expand...

I know what ya mean about tearing up a coil...I couldn't stand it any longer; so a month ago I destroyed one. I had to go back and get my numbers from another post.

This is accurate.

Coil 1) 300 turns of 26GA., (inner coil), connected to the White wire 6V.

Coill 2) 3,600 turns of 35 GA., (outer coil), connected to the blue wire.

There wasn't anything else in there...just a typical laminated frame with two separate coils of wire wrapped around it.

Jim
 
Last edited:
I wonder what would happen if a guy could add more turns to the white wire coil windings?
The cdi box must have some kind of trigger that stores up the energy until it pops I've taken a cdi box apart and found a circuit board, caps. and coils but I don't know electronics and I figured sooner or later someone would take one apart that does know electronic.
I too have taken one of these engines all apart except for breaking down the flywheels but I didn't destroy it it's back on the bike an runs the best and fastest of all my bikes why? I don't know and the dang thing is a bushed engine it even sounds different revs very fast.
something I should do is put on a degree wheel and compare when the ports open and close along with when it fires laziness prevent this so far but when I get really bored it might happen.
Bottom line these thing are fun to mess around with. I have a highly modified head that will fit a 70cc bgf engine that I need to try this should boost comp out of the envelope and may need alcohol to run so it don't detonate.
I machined the yell out of it.
Norman
 
Last edited:
I guess "destroyed" was a bit of an overstatement. It could be reassembled.

I use it for mock-up. Without the crank, piston, clutch, countershaft, Mag...It weighs nothing.

Having all of those parts loose and handy has been a big benefit as far as helping other people on the phone.

Jim
 
I was wondering one of the guys posted here after destroying his engine beat the living $hit out of it then put the pictures on here. I know what you mean by having a taken apart engine for mock up its handy.
Norman
 
To 2door: Your wiring diagram has fixed my hours of frustration. The Rawmotorsports wiring method and very limited instructions will bring you white hairs and days of frustration if you never built a motor on a bike before. Propz to 2door for providing that wonderful wiring diagram :>~~ I will be spending my days here at motorbicycling forum..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top