First Timer help! Friction build ANYONE?1

TheSignGuy

TheSignGuy

Member
The sign guy here, just got a new motor on order thanks to my mom's my Christmas I have everything I need and I am already at 3 gifts so far for my wife etc.

I don't want nothing for Christmas other then a fruit cake is what I told my wife but I'm still buying them gifts.


So with that all being said, I AM BRAND SPANKING NEW to motorized bikes but fairly too old not to know bout it as I can build cars like bread and water.


So what I will be working with is a brand new Bolen's 25cc motor model BL110 and it will be placed on my brand new HUFFY GRANITE. I thought to my self since the brand new bike is already a piece of kick around brand spanking new garbage in reference to its quality why not add a brand new motor.

I would like to know people's idea for "NON WELDED" FRICTION BRACKETS.

I wish to mount it on my front wheel as I am not willing to disable rear brakes in any shape form or fashion. If anyone has any bracket ideas let me know.

I would like to have it done as soon as I get it, the salvageable metal we have local is "CAST IRON STEEL" in shorter terms for those who are not familiar with heavy scrap metal recycling "bed frame slats" is a what I'm working with for now.

I've seen a couple of Ideas but I don't want any scratches or loose metal singing up my paint.


Here's what I thought about.

1) stable brackets good enough to spring load for extra tension onto the front tire or rear as I'm not limited but refuse to disable rear brakes.




Next is throttle cable which I have not ordered yet.
 
Try the google search near the top of the page while your waiting for someone to post. Also wondering why you are going with a weed whacker?
 
BobbyT said:
Try the google search near the top of the page while your waiting for someone to post. Also wondering why you are going with a weed whacker?
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Cause it's cost effective I cannot afford a kit specially with 4 extra kids running round that are not mine.

Only got two kids that are not even biologically mine but i claim them.
 
Just search the forum here as suggested. There are many builds with WW engines. I would mount on the rear. You can work around the brakes.
 
Re: First Timer help! Friction build ANYONE? UPDATED.

curtisfox said:
You could go to http://thatsdax.com/ and take a look at there kit, give you some ideas off it....................Curt
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Went to the hardware store found angled brackets that seemed well on what I needed, in addition I also saw someones bike online and they used thinner steel like bed slats.

They attatched it all to a door hinge with that being said I was going to take the hinge idea bore it out and connect it with angled steel brackets. So I get a " lift motor effect"

I just got through reading WA STATE LAWS and federal regulations and found nothing against friction bicycles.


Last thing I need to know is I would like to add a tension based spring that will apply at least 10lbs of tension at the motor. May require some addition welding to make a full supported top and bottom.

What I want the bracket to look like when I am done is a "P" flat on its back so I will be able to remove motors and bolt in New ones or spares if I have to but intend to take this bolens motor wear it out, then go for my motorcycle endorsement then rebuild it to 100cc small motor that's + 75cc upgrade in the event I will end up hvong to apply a mximum of 10 to 18 lbs of tension pressure at the wheel/motor to make traction increase without over stressing tire tread and off the line pedal starting. Anything above 22lbs would be pushing the limit in high gears which would feel like I would be simulating the lowest gear at start up.

Looks like I'm going to he burning up the cops, the Ford fanatics, and truck enthusiest off the line. xct2
 
You will probably need more than 10lbs down force. Its fairly easy to make a lift clutch so you can idle at stops, and also start the engine if you still have the recoil.
 
What ideas you have for lift clutches? Over time I will upgrade it to chain drive eventually, update I have found that my current mount set up upon building I will be rolling in the lift clutch idea. All I will need is another cable to control tension.

In another find I also see that bolt on bumble bee company uses a "rough peg" attatched to the bracket With clear clutch still included, so why would I like to bother removing the clutch when I can weld a peg on a clutch. What's the pros and cons of such ideas? Long as I have fast off the line speed I'm cool but I don't need any butting like a clutched transmission going out on a ol f 250. That's scary VROOOOOM "YANK YANK YANK BUT"
 
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Search the forum for Weedeater builds. They have requirements that are different from the larger engine builds. Roller size is generally in the 1-1.25" range. The best roller is probably the knurled steel type for the faster turning smaller engines. I have only built one small engine FD. The rollers that worked well for my larger builds did NOT work well on the smaller engine. The scissor lift clutch however works well on most all FDs.
 
cannonball2 said:
Search the forum for Weedeater builds. They have requirements that are different from the larger engine builds. Roller size is generally in the 1-1.25" range. The best roller is probably the knurled steel type for the faster turning smaller engines. I have only built one small engine FD. The rollers that worked well for my larger builds did NOT work well on the smaller engine. The scissor lift clutch however works well on most all FDs.
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I was thinking about that lift clutch more like creating a arm bracket like a lever that clamps onto the lower chassis that way I can just pull and go I do not want a brake cable style lift I prefer a handle.
 
I don't know if my sketch will make sense, but the idea is that one side of the mounting is a nice and strong pivot, and the other is just a spring tensioner. The drive shaft is supported at the moving end by a bearing mounted on the arm that the spring pulls on.
 

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