You know I am going to have to look these carbs closer as they were realy good carbs, I am thinking if you cut the old tank were the carb bolts on ( fill with water first ) then one could make a different small tank maybe even a brass bowel of some sort. Could even shorten the tubes. But like Cannonball says you have to come up with a needle, seat and float to regulate the flow, from tank above ..............Curt
Vintage Cleveland Welding BTR Build
- Thread starter Moisstink
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I like that idea. You might find an appropriate size piece of tubing to fab the bowl from...using a sheet metal end cap and flanges drilled for the mounting holes....yes?
I am getting a little lost in the possibilities you are talking about. I do get the main point of what is needed. I will post any ideas to toss around see if you guys think it will work. Since I have it I will obviously try a few as well and report what I find out. Thanks for the information.
It is a diofram pulse syphon carb what is needed is the top of the old tank were it bolted on,or something just like it so the diofram will work and a resivor to hold gass just like the tank. That's were the tube comes in,and if you plan to use another tank above to fill the resivor you need a float valve to limit that flow other wise it will just flood the carb. I am going to take a close look at one so I will know for sure...........Curt
Done some reading in my Briggs manual and the tank top is a machined surface so has to be flat in the gasket area. The long pickup tube feeds the puls pump and the short tube Feds the carb venture. Also some have ball check valves in them I think the brass tube ones have the ball valve. I am thinking that you wouldn't need the float valve. Because the gass that is in them tanks slops around and don't seem to flood it as is but what ever kind of tank used it would have to be sealed and the top flat. Welding the top to something else you would prolly have to remachine the top could be done with wet-dry sand paper on a flat surface like table saw and elbo grease. And if the carb is older with a needle valve that is even better as you have adjustment insted of jet. One is just going to have to exspierment..............Curt
Done some more looking and seen a 3hp engine it has the fill hole part of the tank steped up higher then the carb so don't think you would have to worry about flooding from higher tank. Also with a pulse pump you could even mount the tank down low, but that would be extra work to extend the long pickup tube. Be foun to try something like that . Good luck.........Curt
I did notice the last time I ran the engine I was getting a little gas leakage around the carb area. So, I am not sure if I will be in luck for the set up I have. I am thinking about a few resolutions to it. Thanks for looking into the problem. I appreciate all the info that can be gained from this site and members. VERY COOL.
So, after pressure applied I was finally able to get the CNC guy at work to cut my designs. I threw the bombs on the rear motor drive sprocket and cut a disc brake mount. I was pretty stoked on how they came out. This whole week I have been chipping away on the third and final option for the gas tanks. the previous two did not look as good as I hoped. I still need to drill the tank brackets to mount them and a little more ageing. I hope to get some decent progress this weekend.
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Nice looking build, the carb you are looking for is a small flo-jet, they were used on small Briggs as well as the diaphragm carb.
it would need a curved intake manifold fabbed up. http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_small_two-piece_flo-jet.asp I've got a couple that would need a going through/ rebuild, I could help you out with one for shipping costs.
it would need a curved intake manifold fabbed up. http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_small_two-piece_flo-jet.asp I've got a couple that would need a going through/ rebuild, I could help you out with one for shipping costs.
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I actually just ordered a PZ20 carb in case the one I have does not work. I also wanted to avoid having to fabricate some kind of throttle aparatus. I thought a manifold the PZ20 and done. I will definitely take you up on the offer if I am overlooking something and this would be the better route. By the way thank you very much for the offer. That is really cool. Let me know what you think on the PZ20. I am getting close on slappin this baby together and breaking out the thread lock and grease for the final round. I will post more photo's this weekend.
Thanks for the offer brotha!Nice looking build, the carb you are looking for is a small flo-jet, they were used on small Briggs as well as the diaphragm carb.
it would need a curved intake manifold fabbed up. http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_small_two-piece_flo-jet.asp I've got a couple that would need a going through/ rebuild, I could help you out with one for shipping costs.
So, my normal camera is out right now so I took some photos of progress from my cell. I have mounted the disk brake caliper, added the chains after a lot of adjustment, the rear sprocket which I am stoked on and the gas tanks. I still need to fab up a new intake for a new carb, cut off the fins on the engine (I am going to fab up an air scoop since I am doing away with the fins) and need to dial everything in.
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I found a company that sold steel cone topped cans. They came with plugs for the tops so with that and tightening down the cap I am crossing my fingers for a good set up. They are a little on the thin side but should be fine.
So after work tonight I decided to try and tackle the cranks once again. The heated bend just was not going to give me enough control over the bends I need. So, I worked one side cutting, bending and re-welding. Once I cut the fins off the flywheel will see where I am at on the other side. The pull start may give me some clearance issues on the other side but I am cutting the flywheel in in the morning so well see.
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