I like that idea. I am pretty sure I have an alum flywheel so I will check that out sometime this week.If the flywheel is aluminum you can tap and break the fins of start it up and use a grinder to clean it up.........Curt
I like that idea. I am pretty sure I have an alum flywheel so I will check that out sometime this week.If the flywheel is aluminum you can tap and break the fins of start it up and use a grinder to clean it up.........Curt
Thanks! I just went to the Ace hardware store picked up some copper pipe. I brought the muffler in and it was about as snug a fit as you could find. I had seen some kind of spark arrestor on Ebay that had the same look for around 100.00. I just screwed the outter pipe to the muffler and used some red locktite which may burn off from the heat but it is a pretty tight fit. I am ordering the pillow blocks tonight w a 5/8" shaft.Looking awesome! Were or what did you use for pipe to fit over muffler ? Maybe you can fit the pillow blocks behind the seat post and bolt them to the plate. Putting the shaft behind the seat post maybe need some spacers..............Curt
So, the jackshaft parts came in today and It looks like the way I am going to go about the jackshaft is exactly how you suggested. It looks like it will all bolt on and line up without heavy modification. I know it will not be that easy though. I did not think the pillow block bearings would be as huge. I will post photos soon.Looking awesome! Were or what did you use for pipe to fit over muffler ? Maybe you can fit the pillow blocks behind the seat post and bolt them to the plate. Putting the shaft behind the seat post maybe need some spacers..............Curt
use the surch and look for cold bending cranks. one of the members here have done it.Here are a few photo's of where I am at with the build. I am planning out my jackshaft right now. I think I have my gear ratio worked out and was thinking pillow block bearings bolted to the engine mount (which will need modification) The engine mount is 1/8" stainless with U-bolts to the frame. I cannot see the amount of torque twisting it. I will also need to bend the cranks a bit. for bending the cranks I was thinking steel pipe, vice and butane or propane torch. Any hints on bending cranks would be greatly appreciated.
Belt slippage is not a problem if properly done. This bike has a belt primary and as I remember the driven pulley is small like 2.25-2.5" Its running 5+hp also. The secret is using an adjustable driven pulley as a tensioner. Tightening the outer sheave will easily tighten the belt to a no slip tension. Also removes any drive train play on the primary side. I built one double chain drive bike and drive train lash was unpleasant. http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=397092&postcount=90The belt drive could be quieter, but slippage around a small pulley is a problem. If there was a belt drive that is like a timing belt with teeth, that would be what I would like to see. A pulley that could be attached to the wheel with synchronous teeth type for the belt like on some motorcycles is what I thinking of.
MT
I am still considering the different carb if the flooding issue cannot be resolved.it's the oridional syfin carb with the tank removed ,will be running a different carb.........Curt
I think you have to have the tank or at least the mounting part for that carb to work, as the rubber diofram is also a pump if that is what you are trying to do?.........CurtI was actually hoping that I could bypass a new carb and stick with the sediment bowl for a fuel source for the suction carb. I thought I might have to do some modifying to make it work. I am going to research the check valve as a possible cure for the flooding issue. I am really hoping to have this all worked out by the beginning of Aug. Fingers crossed.