My first race bike build!!!
- Thread starter deonsrace
- Start date
Hmmm... I could do a few things with that bike... Something is just yelling at me to put a Schwinn stingray seat on it mounted nice and low, a really fat rear tire, long triple tree forks with a skinny 24" front tire, then put in a DLE 111cc 2 cylinder 2 stroke ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/DLE111-TWIN...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7a32e326 ) with a centrifugal clutch and belt driven... Not something I would want to race on, but 11hp @ 7500rpm would sure make the straightaways fun...
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The disc brakes are good at all speeds and by mounting it to the jack shaft, it's effectiveness is also enhanced by the gearing, meaning it'll take less squeeze on the brakes than if mounted to the rear wheel (you may only need one finger for the rear brake with this setup to prevent locking up the rear wheel), however, mounted to the jack shaft, that also gives the engine more leverage to resist the brake if the throttle got stuck open compared to wheel mounted, again, because of the gearing, the engine may be able to overpower the rear brake in a throttle stick situation so be sure to double check your throttle system for no binding and that the return spring is affixed well with no way to pop off etc. Having the kill switch in easy reach is another good backup in case of a throttle stick too.
I'm guessing you're running a cable actuated caliper right now, which should be ok, but if you need even better rear brake effectiveness and control, you could switch to hydraulic, which entails getting a new system, the lever/master cylinder, the line, and caliper. What's nice about the hydraulic brake setup is that you can run more than one disc and caliper if you do need more stopping power.
I would focus most my braking effort to the front wheel also because you can only use so much rear brake before the rear wheel locks up, usually, the front brake does about 70% of the work and the rear helps out with the other 30% because the tendency to lock up is much greater with the rear brake than the front.
I'm guessing you're running a cable actuated caliper right now, which should be ok, but if you need even better rear brake effectiveness and control, you could switch to hydraulic, which entails getting a new system, the lever/master cylinder, the line, and caliper. What's nice about the hydraulic brake setup is that you can run more than one disc and caliper if you do need more stopping power.
I would focus most my braking effort to the front wheel also because you can only use so much rear brake before the rear wheel locks up, usually, the front brake does about 70% of the work and the rear helps out with the other 30% because the tendency to lock up is much greater with the rear brake than the front.
You'll be ok with just the rear brake but get used to how it stops before getting up too fast... That bike should easily hit 45 to 50+ the way you got it set up and it may want to skid a lot without a front brake. I know I've skid my Harley thru a few intersections trying to stop without using the front brake, my other bike has a really fat tire in the back so I can get away with that, but the Sportster is light, fast, and skids all over the place until I get used to riding it whenever I take it out.
This Walmart 29" bike has a Pirate adapter.
http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/r...leet/P7250052_zpsc7f3361a.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/r...leet/P7250052_zpsc7f3361a.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
I believe that the Pirate adapter and the Manic Mechanic adapter are similar if not the same.
Also Jakes a sponsor on this page sells them.
Also Jakes a sponsor on this page sells them.
Jakes gets their adapters from Pirate.
They get the Quantity deal and have their name put on them.
Pillow block bearings are used all the time in go kart builds, and on industrial machinery etc... These are probably the best choice when setting up the jack shaft as well.
Some of them are kinda bulky because they're usually made of cast iron, what would be cool would be to have some made from billet aluminum and press in some high quality bearings.
If you just need to shave off about 1/8" from the top of one and the cast iron is about 3/8" thick there shouldn't be any problems...
If you just need to shave off about 1/8" from the top of one and the cast iron is about 3/8" thick there shouldn't be any problems...
5/8" Bearing Blocks
Heavy Duty
All Steel Construction
Each Bearing Block has
Grease Fitting
2 Set Screws
Base Size 1-1/4" x 4-7/8" and 1/2" Thick
Height 2-1/4"
Mounting Holes are 3-3/4" Center to Center
Bearing is 1" Wide with a 5/8" Hole, Overall Bearing is 1-1/2"
Heavy Duty
All Steel Construction
Each Bearing Block has
Grease Fitting
2 Set Screws
Base Size 1-1/4" x 4-7/8" and 1/2" Thick
Height 2-1/4"
Mounting Holes are 3-3/4" Center to Center
Bearing is 1" Wide with a 5/8" Hole, Overall Bearing is 1-1/2"
Attachments
I'm sure you can find something like this at a much better price... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flaming-Riv...her_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item4845b813fa&vxp=mtr Maybe a local machinest could make you something like this if you supplied him with some 1/2" or 3/4" thick 6061 T6 plate aluminum pieces and the dimensions for the bearings. I can usually buy small pieces of aluminum plate as small as 4" x 4" for about $10 or so depending on thickness
Those are nice, but are those ball bearings inside the pillow blocks? You can usually press out and press in the bearings inside if those aren't good for high rpm
This is more what you'll need... see the ball bearing inside this one?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UCSLP202-10...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item53f7f9fdca
Also, you might be able to press out the self aligning bearing in the ones you got pictured and press in something like the sealed 6202 bearings, you just need to know the outer diameter of the bearing or the bore size of the pillow block and match up the right ball bearing so it'll press into the block and have the 5/8" hole
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UCSLP202-10...=BI_Heavy_Equipment_Parts&hash=item53f7f9fdca
Also, you might be able to press out the self aligning bearing in the ones you got pictured and press in something like the sealed 6202 bearings, you just need to know the outer diameter of the bearing or the bore size of the pillow block and match up the right ball bearing so it'll press into the block and have the 5/8" hole