my bike ... the lethal threat

[rogergendron1]

ahhh basicly i did this on bolth sides

 

[dodge dude94]

ha ha ha yup ... verry fine small drum and fine stone bits took about 4 hours of carefull dremaling !!!! taking tiny amouts off and looking at it and imagining the combution happen and then grinding a lil more ... then i dremmaled it smooth with scotch brite wheels of various grades...

this is all after hours of hand sanding on glass with sand paper taped to it... it took so long to sand of that mile thick gasket surface off, my shoulder and elbow joint still hurt today !!! lol

reshaping the chamber is easy by hand its just time consuming and you need an imagination of how the fuel explodes... imagine it exploding at the plug and expanding out and eliminate all the obstructions in the way , or at least smooth them out enough to effect the speed and path of the explosion.

for instance the sock chamber had a small dome at the plug and a big dome at the chamber and a tinnnny lil squish at the end all with sharp edges ... now when the plug fired the explosion happened rapidly in the lil plug chamber then has to expand by a sharp corner into a larger chamber where it slowes down and loses energy , like water going from a small tube quicky into a larger tube and slowing down then it hits the squish band witch might as well not even exist its so small , and finnishes burning .

in my mind the head would benift greatly if the explosion were to happen in a single smaller high comp dome and fire out in all direction as fast as possable forcing the piston down with the full energy of the burn all at once.

squish bands have there place and they are proven effective this one on the stock head however is a shame full excuse and poor engineering. i personaly think they just slapped it on there to say it was there and make the NEW head sound better lol

a real squish should cover around 30% of the chamber and be used on high comp higher rpm motors where that secondary burn can be noticed at higher rpms

for instance the puch head i installed ... its about the same comp as the old head but the squish was designed for torque so my bike has a much snappyer midrange now than before
with the hemi type dome it was just broad power all over and some extra emphasis on the top end

well i guess you could say there is a squish band .... it has a 0 degree horizontal squish typicaly assotiated with 4 strokes, now that the chamber has shrunk. its about 10mm wide and is the flat surface that has been sanded off by decking down the head. but it is a verry close squish and fires what little it traps horizontaly into the chamber to make tubulance in the explosion , but its not a typical up swept angle 2 stroke squish.



read...........

http://gasgasrider.org/html/measuring_squish.html

Ahh, it all makes perfect sense now.

i know that plug is longer ..... i would check and do a test fit with the motor at top dead center and see if it hits, or hits wile easily turning it over by hand .
try a champion L86C a nice short plug or a nkg b6hs

i was scared to run that plug with my old angle head but i am looking to buy one now that the puch head i have has more clearance de to the top plug design.

I've got a B7HS sitting in my toolbox. That's what I ran before my Iridium. lol I might not deck down quite as extreme as you did, simply so I can run my HIX.

 

[rogergendron1]

Ahh, it all makes perfect sense now.

I've got a B7HS sitting in my toolbox. That's what I ran before my Iridium. lol I might not deck down quite as extreme as you did, simply so I can run my HIX.

A lil les comp and a way better fuel burn would be ideal for a longer running more reliable motor . i would have done the same had i thought of it lol

but i can run it now with the puch 70 hi hi so all is well

 

[dodge dude94]

A lil les comp and a way better fuel burn would be ideal for a longer running more reliable motor . i would have done the same had i thought of it lol

but i can run it now with the puch 70 hi hi so all is well

You're talking about what I'm thinking of as having slightly less comp.? Yeah, but the BPR is quite a bit longer than the regular BxHS. So that contributes to a comp. increase.

 

[rogergendron1]

sorry to everyone reading my threads and posts, i am partialy def and have ptsd from an incident during my army career and i aso have severe ADHD so bear with the strange ramblings and repeated mispeld words and grammer part of it is my hands shake and i get to p@ssed off about it to constantly keep going back to correct inevitable mistakes, lol

just saying cause by the way i spell and the grahmer i use i too would think i was a moron lol but i ashure you i have cert's in auto cad, master cam, and a few years of exp running cnc lathes and bridge port millers also profitiant in reading and using inspection equipment ... vernier calipers, micromiters, dial and slide scale guages.

just saying i know how the way i wright make me look, just see past the spelling errors and you will see i know what iam talking about .... well 80% of the time LOLOLOLOL !1!!!

 

[rogergendron1]

You're talking about what I'm thinking of as having slightly less comp.? Yeah, but the BPR is quite a bit longer than the regular BxHS. So that contributes to a comp. increase.

your right ... the protrusion of the electrode would reach in enough to displace at least a half a cc more than a standard. half a cc is quite significant

 

[dodge dude94]

your right ... the protrusion of the electrode would reach in enough to displace at least a half a cc more than a standard.

So basically I just can't mill my head down as far as you have yours, correct?

 

[rogergendron1]

So basically I just can't mill my head down as far as you have yours, correct?

yup i left a fingernail lip before the fins.. only cause the outer edge of the find hit .

 

[rogergendron1]

ok i am not going to hop up my china girl any more she is done, i have a compeatly parted honda gx200 sitting in a crate for spare parts and the money for a 212 predy in hand , i plan on buying a 212 predy and getting a compleate upgrade kit from nr racing..... including a high comp head, larger valves, tighter springs, a good cam, roller rockers, yada yada yada...... and swpaing it into my cruiser bike. i also plan on going the torue a verter route also,

my plan is to weld a 1/4 in thick aluminum plate to the frame at an angle so the motor mount vertical, after removing the oil sensor it should be no problem , and with a high comp race motor (parts from nr racing)... stroker crank with billet flywheel, wise co piston, mikuni carb, larger valves, roller rockers and torque a verter.... i am shure i will have enough power to burn my tire off the rim lol

but ehh thats wht i am after and no china girl will give it to me !!!

although it may cost less to just get a denardis 50 cc but i think the 212 on roids will be a more powerfull motor over all, plus i have a whole parted gx 200 for spare paarts.

 

[rogergendron1]

ok guys !!!!!!!!! its done !!!!!! well i got the parts ready for order !!!!


i am turning my bike into a trike !!!

my dad is buying me the trike rear axle conversion kit for b day and x mass gift it will be sent to my door in a few weeks !!! i plan on running a solid rear axle and flange mounting the rear tires via hub adapters.

also i am buying a HF 212 cc if it wont fit (havnt done a mock up yet) i will go the 99cc route. rear rack mount with torque a verter.

more to come !

 

[rogergendron1]

well its been a wile since i did any work to this bike lol...

i have just been riding it around the way i set it up !

super high comp over 12:1
straite pipe
puch hi hi head
porting and polish
port matching
16mm carb rejetted
high flow filter

the bike runs awsome ! no problems and plenty of power after thousands of miles !

i have since swapped the rear tire over to a 7 speed shimano shifter (after the old hub exploded and near killed me !) and i am still runnin a 44 t rear.... but,......

now i am ready for a change !

i am building another bike with a stuffed crank with a 38mm stroke and i got a few doner bikes and off one of them i got a shimanno cb110 coaster hub with extra wide rims that are 1.35 in wide !!!!!

so i set the 1.35 wide front rim up with a IRC advantage pro race tire and man wow what a differance !!! it looks like a super wide and low profile race tire !!! and the front tire handles amazing !!!!

i have another IRC advantage pro and the rear shimanno hub and 1.35 in wide rim all ready to go but.... i cant mount it up yet cause i want to do it right with a good hub adapter and i want to go down to a 38 or 40 t rear sprocket.

i can plainly see that even though the rims are the same size in diamiter the race tires are lower profile and will cause a gear change due to the smaller over all size so i want to gear acordingly and also gain some speed so i think a 38 t will be perfect !

you guys know who offers the best hub adapter ? i just dont want to spend 90$ on a adapter and sprocket to have it slip on my hub lol


my hub is 1.525 in in diamiter and i am looking for it with a 38 t rear


all i can say is man those extra wide rims are frigging awsome !!!!!!!!!!!! everyone should look into a swap LOL i mean wow not only does it look sick but it handles awsome !!!! and you can run some pretty slick tires on them too !

looks and feels more like a moped now the rims are almost 2x wider than a stock mtb rim ! there like the surly moonlander rims !

 

[rogergendron1]

my bad the rims are 1.58 or 1.6 in wide !!!!

just measured with a vernia caliper


and i forgiot to mention . . . when the rear hub blew and i swapped to the shimanno 7 speed i also pulled the front suspention from the doner bike so now i am running a havock fron shock setup with v breaks and the just barley make it arkund the new 1.6in wide rim after readjusting them all the way out ... but wohh man they grab alot better when spread further out !

pics in a lil bit !

also forgot to mention ... that if anyone plans to swap over to fat tires or extra wide rimds that you need to be aware of clearance !!!! cause on a standard mountain bike front suspention the 1.6in rim has only 1/8 in clearance to the fork tubes !!!!! and i am limited to low profile or road tires with no knobs

so yeh .. the best place to get a 1.525 hub adapter and a 38t rear sprocket