my bike ... the lethal threat

[rogergendron1]

ok some new mods i got done yesterday night.

decked the head down as far as mechanicly possable without the piston hitting the head, thi included decking the squish band right out ! and rounding out the chamber a little. it fits like the puch 50 hi hi now lol.

installed an 8mm high end plug wire msg, had a 6mm no name on there, did that to help with spark.

installed a new large fuel filter.

now i am running lucas oil upper cylender lubricant to help out keeping the motor running smooth and cool, also running lucas octaine booster and 93 oct

so my mix is .6 gallons of 93
1oz ooctaine booster
1oz upper cylinder lube
1.8 oz opti 2 oil

mix comes out to around 40:1 to 42:1

runs great and a lot of comp and grunt to her.

you can see from the pics how smal the chamber is now ... i put the stock head gasket on as a referance so you can see how much was taken off. i have the gt5 with the taller domed piston so thats all i could do without it hitting after warm up and rod stretch.

 

[rogergendron1]

also some decals were added.............lol

 

[rogergendron1]

if any one was wonderind this is the mod i did to my piston along with trimming the skirt 1/4 all the way across the intake side.

next time i get a new jug it will be a full port jug for reed valve prob an arrow big jug with the intake milled down. i am going to drill out the skirt to lighten it and install a titainium wrist pin as its 60% lighter and make the proper holes for the reed valve intake in the skirt.

i also spent some of the night laying out and drafting up the plans for a torque pipe . all i need to do is finnish the paper templates and give them to my fiance.... she is an experianced welder who is back in clas for her recertifacation !!!! I will just have her weld up the pipe with the templates i make for the cones and help her make up the header tube . we have all the welding equip well she does at school and i do at my dads shop.


god i love that woman.........now if she would quit making furnachure and outdoor patio crap and weld up some preformance parts intead we would be in buisnes !!!

 

[rogergendron1]

ok here are some new upgrades to the bolts ...


i pretty mutch cxhanged over all the bolts to hardend ones or stainless.

all the case bolts and cover bolts are now hex head bolts.
the carb and exhaust jug studs were replaced with alen bolts
the jug studs are now stainless steel and double nutted with stainless nuts.

i had trouble finding metric alen head hardend bolts that fit the case lol apparently 6mm 3 inch long bolts are hard to find !!! and i had to go to 4 stores to get the rigght 4mm bolts for the magneto cover. but its al done now aand i feel mutch safer with them in and torqued right.

 

[rogergendron1]

wile i had it appart i did some work on the combustion chamber.

i reshaped it a little so now its a single dome chamber and aimed the charge tword the plug a little and set the large part of the dome on the exhaust side of the motor.

i also polished the dome after the work to a mirror finnish and then cleaned and polished the piston too .. you can just barley see the ramps cut into the piston on the exhaust and transfer ports if you look, but the shine makes them sort of dissapear.

 

[rogergendron1]

the above head is coming off !!! it has been very god to me so far but i want more !

ordered up a puch 70cc hi hi finaly !!!
and some differant thickness gasket material to make compression adjustments ... i have stock thickness 1mm, i have .6mm, and i have 1.6mm, also copper spray gasket.

i want to run the highest comp i can and still maintain some reliability and keep heat down, i am thinking ... my stock head is rechambered to 6cc so its right at 11:1 comp, i would like to put it at 12:1 comp or higher within reason, and by within reason i mean i can still make the gas for it lol... at 11:1 i am running true fuel 93 oct zero ethanol 40:1 mix full synthetic gas mixed with lucas oil upper cylender lube and lucas oil octain booter to get it up to like 96 oct and keep the motor burning smooth instead of exploding in the chamber and its been great so far ! man that lucas upper cicynder lube is magical !!!! my jug has verry little signs of wear and i beat the h3ll out of this motor ! you can see your face in my piston its so clean ?(of course i polished it but its still clean) any way i want big cooling fins and a lil more comp so i am going with the puch 70 hi hi head and i will post pics of the puch head discuss its quality and build and post pics of my motor disasembly and show my mod stock head and discuss that . then pics of it being drilled to fit studs nd on the bike mabey a vid of it running idk whatever will help out some one else wanting to do thid mod to.... you should i mean its only 30$ lol .

 

[rogergendron1]

still waiting on my lazy fiance to weld up the torque pipe templates i made her ... lol well i know she has all sorts of other things to do when she gets to it i will see if she will just make 4-5 of them all at once lol it wouldnt be that much harder than doing just one and they would be pretty sick made from diamond plate aluminum!!!!! ..............

 

[rogergendron1]

well i got some more work done to the threat ... my 70cc puch hi hi head came in yesterday and i got it painted and drilled out to mach the 8mm studs, mounted on the bike it looks great ! now for the first run and carb tunning on my way to work ... looks like i will have to leave a lil early for tunning stops lol

going to have my lil sis take a video tomorrow morning and up load it to you tube so you can see and here the bike.

i have a spare stock head if anyone is interested, its decked way down and has been reshaped and polished for better combustion. i meashured the chamber to be around 6cc with the plug in (champion L86C) that was the average mesh using a piece of plexy glass and a needle to fill wile counting cc's, i did this about 5 times and came to an average of 6cc between 5.7 to 6.2 cc's so its pretty high comp let me know if your interested.....

 

[rogergendron1]

any way my birth day is coming up and for a presant to myself i think i am going to order an arrow custom ported jug and reed block assembly with dellorto carb. or the rse reed block assembly and the walbro carb with and arrow jug, i have not decided yet. ether way i am dumping 250$ in the motor

3rd transfer port and custom ported jug from arrow
reed block kit from arrow
dellorto carb
k&n filter. 190$
new jakes cut on piston. 15$
titainium wrist pin. 20$
high grade needle bearings. 20$
copper head gasket. 0$
1.5mm base gasket. 0$

with shipping i am looking at 250 $ and a full blown race motor that is reliable enogh to ride as a daily driver !!!!

cant wait till my b day !!!

 

[dodge dude94]

wile i had it appart i did some work on the combustion chamber.

i reshaped it a little so now its a single dome chamber and aimed the charge tword the plug a little and set the large part of the dome on the exhaust side of the motor.

i also polished the dome after the work to a mirror finnish and then cleaned and polished the piston too .. you can just barley see the ramps cut into the piston on the exhaust and transfer ports if you look, but the shine makes them sort of dissapear.

Good lord. How did you get that head so flat?

 

[rogergendron1]

Good lord. How did you get that head so flat?

sanding it realy hard on 80 grit sand paper on glass, then check fitting it to the motor every now and then to check piston crown clearance and then muesure the chamber cc with plexy glass and a needle

once i got it down to about 5cc with 80 grit and test fitted it to see if i had piston clearance. i then finnished off the gasket surface with 100, 150, 200, 220 sand paper

then i ground out the step in the chamber that makes the second dome where the plug seats, i did this to make it a single chamber and also to aid with a faster more efficiant combustion

after i polished up the chamber with a dremal to prevent carbon build up and help combustion

then remuessured with plexy glass and a needle to find it was now 6cc, a perfect size.

boar x boar x stroke x .7854 = volume
add the chamber volume to that
divide the chamber volume by the tottal
that is your rough comp estimate

you must aslo add the gasket volume and deck hight volume to the cylinder volume and chamber volume if you want a perfect ratio calculation but its not nessasary for a rough estamate

4.7cm x 4.7cm = 22.09cm x 38cm = 83.942cm x .7854 = 65.9280468 ccm
66ccm pluss 6ccm chamber = 72ccm tottal volume (add the gasket and deck volume here for acuracy)
72ccm tottal volume divided by 6ccm chamber volume = 12

so its around 12:1 comp but realisticly a bit lower cause of tolerances sutch as jug deck hight and base gasket volume, they all need to be calculated and factored in too, so the final uncorrected comp is a lil over 11:1

 

[rogergendron1]

right now i am running thew puch 70 hi hi head and i did not measure the volume so i can not tell you the final uncorrected comp ratio, if any one has this info plz share it with me. i will muesure it the next time its off though and post the results i am shure people would like to know the chaber volume of the puch 70 hi hi for comp ratio calculaions ..

 

[dodge dude94]

sanding it realy hard on 80 grit sand paper on glass, then check fitting it to the motor every now and then to check piston crown clearance and then muesure the chamber cc with plexy glass and a needle

once i got it down to about 5cc with 80 grit and test fitted it to see if i had piston clearance. i then finnished off the gasket surface with 100, 150, 200, 220 sand paper

then i ground out the step in the chamber that makes the second dome where the plug seats, i did this to make it a single chamber and also to aid with a faster more efficiant combustion

after i polished up the chamber with a dremal to prevent carbon build up and help combustion

then remuessured with plexy glass and a needle to find it was now 6cc, a perfect size.

boar x boar x stroke x .7854 = volume
add the chamber volume to that
divide the chamber volume by the tottal
that is your rough comp estimate

you must aslo add the gasket volume and deck hight volume to the cylinder volume and chamber volume if you want a perfect ratio calculation but its not nessasary for a rough estamate

4.7cm x 4.7cm = 22.09cm x 38cm = 83.942cm x .7854 = 65.9280468 ccm
66ccm pluss 6ccm chamber = 72ccm tottal volume (add the gasket and deck volume here for acuracy)
72ccm tottal volume divided by 6ccm chamber volume = 12

so its around 12:1 comp but realisticly a bit lower cause of tolerances sutch as jug deck hight and base gasket volume, they all need to be calculated and factored in too, so the final uncorrected comp is a lil over 11:1

Mother of God.

I used 400gr. No wonder I didn't make a dent. What did you do for the squish band? Just leave it? I mean that is the first thing to go when sanding.

 

[rogergendron1]

Mother of God.

I used 400gr. No wonder I didn't make a dent. What did you do for the squish band? Just leave it? I mean that is the first thing to go when sanding.

lol the squish band is GONE!!!!! you dont need one if you reshape the dome for quick combustion.... pluss the squish band that was on there was way to small and compleetly ussless !

i just made it a hemispherical dome, no squish band and it had a lot of top end and good mid range no overheating ether..

 

[dodge dude94]

lol the squish band is GONE!!!!! you dont need one if you reshape the dome for quick combustion.... pluss the squish band that was on there was way to small and compleetly ussless !

i just made it a hemispherical dome, no squish band and it had a lot of top end and good mid range no overheating ether..

Got a picture of what you did handy?

*edit*
nvm...found it. lol You just used a dremel?

 

[rogergendron1]

Got a picture of what you did handy?

*edit*
nvm...found it. lol You just used a dremel?

ha ha ha yup ... verry fine small drum and fine stone bits took about 4 hours of carefull dremaling !!!! taking tiny amouts off and looking at it and imagining the combution happen and then grinding a lil more ... then i dremmaled it smooth with scotch brite wheels of various grades...

this is all after hours of hand sanding on glass with sand paper taped to it... it took so long to sand of that mile thick gasket surface off, my shoulder and elbow joint still hurt today !!! lol

reshaping the chamber is easy by hand its just time consuming and you need an imagination of how the fuel explodes... imagine it exploding at the plug and expanding out and eliminate all the obstructions in the way , or at least smooth them out enough to effect the speed and path of the explosion.

for instance the sock chamber had a small dome at the plug and a big dome at the chamber and a tinnnny lil squish at the end all with sharp edges ... now when the plug fired the explosion happened rapidly in the lil plug chamber then has to expand by a sharp corner into a larger chamber where it slowes down and loses energy , like water going from a small tube quicky into a larger tube and slowing down then it hits the squish band witch might as well not even exist its so small , and finnishes burning .

in my mind the head would benift greatly if the explosion were to happen in a single smaller high comp dome and fire out in all direction as fast as possable forcing the piston down with the full energy of the burn all at once.

squish bands have there place and they are proven effective this one on the stock head however is a shame full excuse and poor engineering. i personaly think they just slapped it on there to say it was there and make the NEW head sound better lol

a real squish should cover around 30% of the chamber and be used on high comp higher rpm motors where that secondary burn can be noticed at higher rpms

for instance the puch head i installed ... its about the same comp as the old head but the squish was designed for torque so my bike has a much snappyer midrange now than before
with the hemi type dome it was just broad power all over and some extra emphasis on the top end

well i guess you could say there is a squish band .... it has a 0 degree horizontal squish typicaly assotiated with 4 strokes, now that the chamber has shrunk. its about 10mm wide and is the flat surface that has been sanded off by decking down the head. but it is a verry close squish and fires what little it traps horizontaly into the chamber to make tubulance in the explosion , but its not a typical up swept angle 2 stroke squish.



read...........

http://gasgasrider.org/html/measuring_squish.html

 

[dodge dude94]

ha ha ha yup ... verry fine small drum and fine stone bits took about 4 hours of carefull dremaling !!!! taking tiny amouts off and looking at it and imagining the combution happen and then grinding a lil more ... then i dremmaled it smooth with scotch brite wheels of various grades...

this is all after hours of hand sanding on glass with sand paper taped to it... it took so long to sand of that mile thick gasket surface off, my shoulder and elbow joint still hurt today !!! lol

Gotcha. I had sanded my chamber a bit with 400gt and it helped some. Maybe decking it and milling the combustion chamber like you did will help more. I've got a BPR7HIX plug though, any clearance issues?

 

[rogergendron1]

the puch head has a veeeerrry wide and flat squish band and its real high comp making it ideal for midrange torque . our stock band was so small and upswept it had no effect at the rmps our motors produce.

 

[rogergendron1]

Gotcha. I had sanded my chamber a bit with 400gt and it helped some. Maybe decking it and milling the combustion chamber like you did will help more. I've got a BPR7HIX plug though, any clearance issues?

i know that plug is longer ..... i would check and do a test fit with the motor at top dead center and see if it hits, or hits wile easily turning it over by hand .
try a champion L86C a nice short plug or a nkg b6hs

i was scared to run that plug with my old angle head but i am looking to buy one now that the puch head i have has more clearance de to the top plug design.

 

[rogergendron1]

i have no ida who but some one with a great idea and a steady welding hand and a lot of spare time managed to add weld to a stck head and then have a proper wide flat squish milled... lol too mutch work for me i would rather spend 30 on the puch or deck the living heck out of a stocker and run a wide horizontal squish with a small single dome.