Just a question

[sniperxfire]

I thought i couldnt attach motor in this bike due to its big downtube size. But i actually brought the U-Adapter in the Canadian tire and tested it and it worked.

I assembled them and it worked. There is one problem.

The chain is touching the seat stays.

Does anyone know how i can fix this?

I will attach photo, soon.

_______________

The seat stays of this bike kinda bend to inside so this is the reason why it touches the chain.

I dont really know if this is a big problem or if it also happens to someone else. It just bothers me but if it wont cause a problem, then i will just leave it alone.

Here are the pictures:

http://s1285.photobucket.com/user/wdflol/media/4_zps4c8f2a8f.jpg.html

http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a594/wdflol/1_zps60f1144c.jpg

As you can see, the chain did some minor damages on the paint of seat stay. The chain doesnt always touch the seat stay, it has little space between them but of course the chain moves everytime so it can also touch it.

Would really appreciate for some help.

NOTE: This is the bicycle http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brow...CM+Nitro+XT+26-in+Mountain+Bike.jsp?locale=en

 

[mapbike]

Will wait for pic to see what you have going on and then imsure you will get some opinions as to what you may be able to do.

Imyself are a bit puzzled for now so I need to see what you got.

Map

 

[sniperxfire]

Thank you sir for quick response.

Edited and included pictures.

 

[mapbike]

Thank you sir for quick response.

Edited and included pictures.

Wow im not really sure what totell you on that man, the bike dezign isactually the problem, I have never seen a frame that has those bars bent inward like that before, I hate to give you that news but it may bethat if you will reduce your sprocket size down to a 36t it will give you enough room to keep the chain from rubbing frame, that would probably be my fix for the problem you are having with that frame.

The 36t sprocket is smaller n dia and may help.

Ill lookat pixs again after I post this message just to make sre it wouldnt make the problem worse.

Map

 

[mapbike]

Yeeah it does look like a 36t sprocket would give you more clearance, you could flip your current sprocket around also but then you may have tire clearance issues, its had to say without having it in front of me but. Iwould try flipping your sprocket over frst and if that works problem solved but if not the sloution could well be just using the smaller diameter sprocket.

Map

 

[sniperxfire]

Yeeah it does look like a 36t sprocket would give you more clearance, you could flip your current sprocket around also but then you may have tire clearance issues, its had to say without having it in front of me but. Iwould try flipping your sprocket over frst and if that works problem solved but if not the sloution could well be just using the smaller diameter sprocket.

Map

I tried flipping the sprocket and it didnt really help.

Though your idea about getting lower diameter sprocket will surely be the solution to my problem.

If 36T is smaller than the 44T i have,that may be the way to go.

Again, i thank you for keeping in touch with my problem and ill update this thread to let everyone know how it goes.

 

[mapbike]

I tried flipping the sprocket and it didnt really help.

Though your idea about getting lower diameter sprocket will surely be the solution to my problem.

If 36T is smaller than the 44T i have,that may be the way to go.

Again, i thank you for keeping in touch with my problem and ill update this thread to let everyone know how it goes.

You are very welcome and I look forward to hearing your results and hope that is a solid fix, and you will have a likely increase of 5-8mph added to your cruise speed as well, the 36t sprocket will reduce hill climb speed if it is a long hill but my bikeshVe 34 & 36t sprockets and they pull my 215lbs really good on the hills Round here in central Texas, if you have a free flowing exhaust and your carb is jetted properly youshould have acomfortable cruis speed of 30-34mph with a 36T sprocket on flat ground. Those are my results on my Huffy bike that has a unported jug and just a well tuned carb and a sbp expansion exhaust, I do have a Puch hi hi 50cc head on it now but my comfortable cruise speed is still 32-34mph before vibes get uncomfortable.

Best wishes to you.

Map

 

[Huffydavidson]

You can also step your chain size down to a KMC 410H , its about half as wide as the standard 415 kit chain. Just as strong. Some of the other racers here it run it even at the track. You can find on e-bay.

 

[donphantasmo]

I would say try a Manic Mechanic sprocket adapter. It allows you to better choose where to put the sprocket (move it right and left). It's 80 bucks or so, but I think it's WAAAAAY worth it. It also does a much better job centering the sprocket on the wheel. That helped me a lot with the vibration.

I hope this works buddy.

 

[KCvale]

Well YES this is a problem, a bad one.

Your sprockets have to be in a straight line, all you can do is mount the rear sprocket farther in.

Maybe just flip the spocket over, maybe dink it like the cranbook guys do and leave the inner rag joint out, or get a sprocket that cups in better but regardless that is a disaster just waiting to happen.

Qucik Forum Tip: 'Just a question' is not a very good topic title, 'Sprocket alignment question' would be much more helpful for everyone you seeking help from ;-}

 

[Dan]

Sniper, an option and not a great one, but I would keep an eye out for a similar frame that could use the components from your frame. Be a lot of work but then you would have lots of spare parts and some times you get lucky and can find a bike at a tag sale or thrift store for next to nothing.

Just a thought. Looking at your pictures, I don't think there is much you could do about moving the chain out of the way aside from cutting and rewelding the stays.

 

[crassius]

you might try a washer or two on that side of the axle - if that gives you more room, then check that tire is still centered well enough & dish the spokes as needed to correct any offset

 

[sniperxfire]

Thank you guys for all the responses.

Some have given me a tough solution and some others gave me easy one's. But i still appreciate for helping me.

I have only 2 things in my mind that i think can easily fix my problem without doing too much work and using machines etc...

I will be flipping the sprocket and will buy kmc 410h chain. If it still needs more space, i will have to buy 36T sprocket.

The 410H chain will surely make the best result as someone mentioned, it is always half the size of the original chain. If that so, it will surely fix my problem.

I will keep this thread updated.

 

[mapbike]

Thank you guys for all the responses.

Some have given me a tough solution and some others gave me easy one's. But i still appreciate for helping me.

I have only 2 things in my mind that i think can easily fix my problem without doing too much work and using machines etc...

I will be flipping the sprocket and will buy kmc 410h chain. If it still needs more space, i will have to buy 36T sprocket.

The 410H chain will surely make the best result as someone mentioned, it is always half the size of the original chain. If that so, it will surely fix my problem.

I will keep this thread updated.

The 410H chain option is a good one IF you have the narrower sprocket s that will allow the use of 410H chain. Measure the width of both of your sprockets, if they are both 1/8/.125 or less the narrower 410H chain will work on your sprockets.

You cant use a manic style adapter on the muti speed wheel.

If you flip the sprocket and eliminate one of the rubber from behind it you will likely then habe your chain against your tire.

Im gonna say that the most likely solution may be 410H chain, 36T Sprocket that is narrow enough for the 1/8" chain, and if the sprocket on the engine is to wide for the 410H chain you will need to get one that is for a skyhawk engine, not sure if you have a skyhawk dealer in Canada or not.

Personally, the cheapest and simplest thing to try first is to try a 36T sprocket to see if the reduced diameter will lower the chain enough to allow the clearance you need, it looks to me that there is a very good chance that it will.

Dan, gave what I would consider one of two last resort options which may be your only option outside of a frame mod. Second of the two would be to get a Shift Kit Setup.



I know were pulling for ya here.... so hope you can se one or more of the suggestions to solve your problem.

Best of luck.
Map

 

[CTripps]

Off the top, I'd agree that going to a 36T sprocket is probably your best (and easiest) answer. The thoughts on the chain posted above might also be good to check in to. I have no doubt there are ways to change the bend in those seat stays from an 'innie' to an 'outie', (drop the wheel, put a jack in between the seat stays, and start opening it up) but that would get trickier making sure the bends stay the same (and would also weaken the seat stays, I should think).

Thanks for the thread. I hadn't really put much thought into the seat stays being a source of interference until now. I'll keep an eye out for that on frames in the future.

 

[sniperxfire]

Alright so i found a bmx store nearby so i dropped by and purchase KMC 410H chain. I put it on but it doesnt go through the engine sprocket but works on the big sprocket. Even if they do work, it would still touch the seat stay.

Next step is to order 36T sprocket and for sure that will fix my problem.

Again, ill keep this thread updated.

 

[mapbike]

Alright so i found a bmx store nearby so i dropped by and purchase KMC 410H chain. I put it on but it doesnt go through the engine sprocket but works on the big sprocket. Even if they do work, it would still touch the seat stay.

Next step is to order 36T sprocket and for sure that will fix my problem.

Again, ill keep this thread updated.

You said it wont go through (fit) the engine sprocket, this is a sure sign that you will either need to get a narrower sprocket or if you have a grinder you cna remove the sprocket with the correct puller and grind the width of the teeth down so that the narrower 410H chain will fit it properly and then hopefully you will be good to go.

Sure hope all of this works out for you buddy.

Map

 

[maniac57]

Off the top, I'd agree that going to a 36T sprocket is probably your best (and easiest) answer. The thoughts on the chain posted above might also be good to check in to. I have no doubt there are ways to change the bend in those seat stays from an 'innie' to an 'outie', (drop the wheel, put a jack in between the seat stays, and start opening it up) but that would get trickier making sure the bends stay the same (and would also weaken the seat stays, I should think).

Thanks for the thread. I hadn't really put much thought into the seat stays being a source of interference until now. I'll keep an eye out for that on frames in the future.

The easy way to bend them out is to install a bare axle of the same spacing and slip a compact car jack between the stays.
The axle will hold the rear in perfect alignment and concentrates the bend where you need it.
I flip the jack as needed to keep both sides the same.(some jacks will bend better one way than the other)
Easy peasy and it doesn't cost a dime if you have a junk rim or axle and a jack.
It won't hurt the frame unless you bend it WAY too much or buckle the frame. Use a sheet of wood or something that spreads the load to cushion the contact point if your jack tries to make a dent in the tubing instead of bending the frame rail smoothly.

 

[mapbike]

The easy way to bend them out is to install a bare axle of the same spacing and slip a compact car jack between the stays.
The axle will hold the rear in perfect alignment and concentrates the bend where you need it.
I flip the jack as needed to keep both sides the same.(some jacks will bend better one way than the other)
Easy peasy and it doesn't cost a dime if you have a junk rim or axle and a jack.
It won't hurt the frame unless you bend it WAY too much or buckle the frame. Use a sheet of wood or something that spreads the load to cushion the contact point if your jack tries to make a dent in the tubing instead of bending the frame rail smoothly.

Yes sir... what you just described will also be a good fix and it wont cost a dime if he has the stuff to work with, good advise.....!

Map

 

[CTripps]

The easy way to bend them out is to install a bare axle of the same spacing and slip a compact car jack between the stays.
The axle will hold the rear in perfect alignment and concentrates the bend where you need it.
I flip the jack as needed to keep both sides the same.(some jacks will bend better one way than the other)
Easy peasy and it doesn't cost a dime if you have a junk rim or axle and a jack.
It won't hurt the frame unless you bend it WAY too much or buckle the frame. Use a sheet of wood or something that spreads the load to cushion the contact point if your jack tries to make a dent in the tubing instead of bending the frame rail smoothly.

That's pretty much what I was imagining. Thanks for the clarification of technique, Maniac.