welp finally

[jim71]

well i wana thank tinsmith (Dan) he sent me a motor plate free of charge and even paid the shipping! thanks dan! i mailed a money order out today, i know you said you didn't want it, but it makes me feel better! thanks bro!
anyways the motor is nice and quiet! runs good!
pulls me around pretty good ! still breaking the motor in, and to be honest i don't think i will running it wide open it cruises fast enough lol
anyways heres a few pics
my challenge was the q-matic drive ,my motor had to be as close to front as possible for the drive fit.
http://motorbicycling.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=60768&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1372362920

 

[jim71]

few more ,

 

[Tinsmith]

Jim, looks like you are ready to go. I would suggest you watch the chain tensioner. If you don't know already they have a history of rolling over into the spokes, and down you go. There are many solutions on this site that folks have dome up with so please check them out soon. That thing scares me.
Good luck, Dan

 

[jim71]

thanks dan!!
I just do a search for them here?

 

[wheelbender6]

That thumper motor looks great in the GT frame.

 

[Tinsmith]

Yes, just look on this site. Tensioners have been a topic of discussion for years and there are some very creative solutions. You will find folks who don't think them necessary and others that do. I hope others will chime in , but I feel from what I've seen and read that the standard tensioner is not up to the task. There are some that have had good results. Check it out and see what you come up with.
Dan

 

[jim71]

thank you !
yeah I will check into it for sure !

 

[chainmaker]

It looks like you have a pedal side derailleur / tensioner. Just set your motor side without a tensioner with the correct tension, and let the tensioner on the pedal side make up the slack on the pedal side, lots of people set the pedal side tight and worry about the motor side tensioner set up.

 

[bigbutterbean]

You can even adjust the pedal side derailleur if there is too much slack on the pedal side. The kit drive side chain tensioner is definitely not needed when you have a pedal side derailleur, unless the chain rubs the chainstays.

 

[jim71]

You can even adjust the pedal side derailleur if there is too much slack on the pedal side. The kit drive side chain tensioner is definitely not needed when you have a pedal side derailleur, unless the chain rubs the chainstays.

ok you guys lost me on this
any pics of what ya mean?
thanks guys

 

[chainmaker]

Just adjust your wheel in the dropout so the engine drive side chain tension is correct without a tensioner. The pedal side derailleur/ tensioner will do it's job.

 

[jim71]

Just adjust your wheel in the dropout so the engine drive side chain tension is correct without a tensioner. The pedal side derailleur/ tensioner will do it's job.

ok that's what I thought
thank you

 

[jim71]

Just adjust your wheel in the dropout so the engine drive side chain tension is correct without a tensioner. The pedal side derailleur/ tensioner will do it's job.

my rear wheel just lays into drop out its fixed and there isn't much room to play with ,very limited and I wouldn't feel safe without it sitting in the slot lol
the motor sits where it sits I don't have any real adjustment ,at this point, I may be able to do something guess I have to look into it,
but I was thinking of going with a smaller sprocket and even a smaller chain, I really don't understand why the chain is so big?
I run 6.5 clone motor on my mini bike and its running on alky and prolly has around 19 horse and I run a 35 extreme chain never broke one yet,
so anyways my rear sprocket is pretty big and the chain comes up and rubs my brake bracket , if I put a smaller sprocket it would bring the chain lower and I may be able to get rid of the tensioner at the same time..
the only problem with that is smaller sprocket means less take off power, and i think the clutch sprocket is pretty small already so there isn't much i can do there ,
so i would have to change the belt pulleys?

 

[Tinsmith]

Jim, I an running a little smaller drive shaft pulley and it helped my bottom end, but it took some time to get everything re-adjusted in the clutch set-up. Possibly shorten the drive chain with a half-link. That too can be a challenge and still not end up working out. Look at what others have done to make the tensioner safe. A lot of the ideas are fairly straight forward and simple but practical.
Dan

 

[jim71]

yeah I am looking into it ,hopefully I come up with something ,
thanks dan!!

 

[jim71]

ok removed chain tensioner , seems to roll a lot nicer without it ,
little 4stroke is a nice quiet cruising motor,

still need to get pedal extenders....
and get rid of the knobby tires..

do you guys make custom bike stands?
changing the rear tire now is gona be a pain in da azz ..

 

[chainmaker]

Get a center mount stand and you can change the wheels on the road if needed. A display stand works in the shop or a bike stand.

 

[jim71]

ok
where do you get them? bike store?

 

[azbill]

with my stretch,,,I use a center stand (heavy-duty whizzer-type from EZM)
because I have the ammo-can saddle bags, when I have to remove the rear wheel, I put the stand on a cement block to lift the back enough to clear the fender

 

[jim71]

with my stretch,,,I use a center stand (heavy-duty whizzer-type from EZM)
because I have the ammo-can saddle bags, when I have to remove the rear wheel, I put the stand on a cement block to lift the back enough to clear the fender

where did you get it?
any pics?
thanks bill