New Lifan 152F-3Q from Home Depot
- Thread starter Otto
- Start date
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Heres a few pics of a Cranny build I did a while back. I built 4 or 5 bikes with this engine, really liked it. Still have one left.http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=271027&postcount=55
with a shorter stroke would mean more rpm with less chance of windowing your block.
for non racer put a rod through the side of your block.
that why i can turn 7500 rpm out of my mopar 383cid shorter stroke than a 350 small block chevy. and the stroker 383 chevy boys can only do 5000rpm longer stroke than a 350cid
give me short stroke big bore any time. hummmm had a girlfriend that told me that one time, i did not get it till now .lol
i am going to H D this weekend with the website page printed out. dicker time
for non racer put a rod through the side of your block.
that why i can turn 7500 rpm out of my mopar 383cid shorter stroke than a 350 small block chevy. and the stroker 383 chevy boys can only do 5000rpm longer stroke than a 350cid
give me short stroke big bore any time. hummmm had a girlfriend that told me that one time, i did not get it till now .lol
i am going to H D this weekend with the website page printed out. dicker time
LabRat
New Member
No idea on how far along you are with this engine. Let me share with you some things learned through my personal experience with these clone engines.
Removal of gov and pluging its hole results in no oil on the outside of the case. I'll explain. Ive ran my first one by just disconnecting the outside parts. Then at high RMP a fine sheen of oil comes out around the rod and then dirt starts sticking shortly after. I love my rat bikes with all there rust and dents, I just hate dirt - oil covered dirt eww.
The engine in your pictures sure looks like a flat top to me. Tell me its not an OHV, please. Am I just blind?
I have 5 of the doodle bugs and it sure looks alot like the same thing. Acutally looks exactly like a drege motor from I picked up at a tent sale at HF with the oil sensor inside. I would get rid of that and plug it off too.
You said someting about HP in the thread too. It is my undestanding the 2.5hp rating is at 3800rpm and removing the gov allows you to gain the rest of the power band or aprox 3.5hp This is what Ive been told.
After the above comment on oil leaking, soon as its out of the box I remove the gov and plug the holes. Not blown one up yet, but there is always hope.
Removal of gov and pluging its hole results in no oil on the outside of the case. I'll explain. Ive ran my first one by just disconnecting the outside parts. Then at high RMP a fine sheen of oil comes out around the rod and then dirt starts sticking shortly after. I love my rat bikes with all there rust and dents, I just hate dirt - oil covered dirt eww.
The engine in your pictures sure looks like a flat top to me. Tell me its not an OHV, please. Am I just blind?
I have 5 of the doodle bugs and it sure looks alot like the same thing. Acutally looks exactly like a drege motor from I picked up at a tent sale at HF with the oil sensor inside. I would get rid of that and plug it off too.
You said someting about HP in the thread too. It is my undestanding the 2.5hp rating is at 3800rpm and removing the gov allows you to gain the rest of the power band or aprox 3.5hp This is what Ive been told.
After the above comment on oil leaking, soon as its out of the box I remove the gov and plug the holes. Not blown one up yet, but there is always hope.
Otto
New Member
The owner's manual states that it is 339mm, or 13.3465" tall, but that is with all accessories installed as stock. The engine measures 11 3/16" tall using a level on top of the valve cover. I would call it nominally, 11 1/4" tall. It will fit in a Huffy Cranbrook frame. Of course, so does the standard ChinaGirl 66/80cc.
Otto
New Member
Not far along at all. I am kind of stuck on which way I want to go with this. I'll enter a post to this thread about my dilemma of trying to decide how I want to proceed with my first build. My car project is taking quite a bit of my time as well. I'm into it going on 6 years.
Post #46 shows it quite well that it's an OHV. I would have liked to have a flathead for the aesthetic value, but I could live with this one.
From speaking to Lifan USA, there isn't an oil sensor in this engine.
According to the owner's manual, the 1h output is 1.1kW@3600rpm. Converted that comes out to 1.474530831103hp. However, the Max. torque is listed as 3.1N.m@3240rpm which converts to 1.9124hp. I don't know anything about it developing 3.5hp, but it was hinted by Lifan that it would put out 3hp, if I remember correctly.
[/QUOTE]After the above comment on oil leaking, soon as its out of the box I remove the gov and plug the holes. Not blown one up yet, but there is always hope.[/QUOTE]
That sounds like a good idea. I was wondering how to plug the hole that will be there once the governor is removed.
Hi all you don't want to buy one of these engines from sears. no wonder sears is having problems with sales.
http://www.sears.com/lifan-lf152f-3q-2-1-2-hp-side-valve/p-SPM7264203108P
http://www.sears.com/lifan-lf152f-3q-2-1-2-hp-side-valve/p-SPM7264203108P
Great info on the engine Otto! I am in the process of choosing an engine for my build. A question to those that are experienced with this engine. One thing that always scares me is that I've heard stories of the flywheel exploding from higher rpm's with gov removal. Are there any aftermarket flywheels available? I know there are alum ones at AGK but they are for the HF clone engines. I was just curious at what point or rpm range are you in danger of exploding the flywheel?
bigbutterbean
Active Member
Here is the deal with the flywheels. If you have an ALL plastic flywheel with the magnet glued inside, it will probably explode if left in a cold environment. Plastic does not like to be rapidly heated and cooled constantly. It will eventually become brittle and crack, and the magnet will shoot out at high rpm's. HOWEVER, the flathead Lifan (and probably the ohv version as well, just no personal experience) has a metal flywheel which is actually the magnet rotor with a plastic cover glued on. I see no danger of this type of flywheel exploding. I'm using the 98cc flathead doodlebug engine, and so far no problems.
Stories or fact? I've only seen em blow apart rods etc..wheel won't help that
AGK recommends:
"ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL: Stock flywheels, especially on clone motors, can come apart at high RPM. When a flywheel lets go at high RPM, it's similar to a grenade going off. Needless to say this is a very dangerous situation which can be lethal. Install an aluminum flywheel to prevent this disaster from striking you. With the reduction in weight you will get increased horse power and a quicker revving motor. This is an expensive part, but it's good insurance. Cost: $125.00"
http://www.affordablegokarts.com/performance_basics.php
Also here is a thread from oldminibikes where a honda clone predator engine flywheel exploded. Now the rpm that caused the explosion is debatable as you will see in the thread. The peculations range from 6500 to 8000 rpm. In any case this was a modified engine with at least a big carb and ungoverned.
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/h.../35377-another-clone-flywheel-bites-dust.html
and here is the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=7X_kJF8t4G0
bigbutterbean
Active Member
First of all, agk seems to be using a bit of a scare tactic to make sales. Secondly, there is no way an aluminum flywheel can be lighter than a plastic one. I can see a flywheel exploding on a heavily modified engine, but running it stock (other than removing the governor) shouldn't be a problem. My buddy Jay (jbcruisin here on the forum) is running a 99cc predator with the governor externally disconnected, and to my knowledge has not replaced the flywheel. I'm also not going to replace my flywheel, whether I keep the engine I've got or replace it with a 79cc predator.
culvercityclassic
Well-Known Member
I think none of these motors have a plastic flywheel to start with. I do not see any aluminum flywheels available for these small engines. The need to replace a flywheel on a hi performance engine is due to the hi rpm's and the way the magnet is installed, the magnet has pins that secure it vs glue and screws. The video from Agk is real and true life, and could cause extreme damage. I really am not worried about these small engines, the first thing to go will be the rod. Plus they don't make any more power after 5500 rpm without adding a cam and head work.
bigbutterbean
Active Member
Well, we heard it from the man himself. I think that about settles the flywheel discussion, lol.
IDK where this plastic flywheel is coming from, pretty sure the flywheel is not plastic. Are you talking about cooling fan that goes on top of the flywheel?
Yep agreed, thanks for clearing that up.