Popped the carb: what now?
- Thread starter dodge dude94
- Start date
When I had a 2 stroke, I never ran anything but an NT carb. Heard many horror stories of tuning problems with them, and decided it wasnt for me. The NT is simple to tune and nothing if not reliable. Even had a slight fuel leak for a little while after an accident that eventually corrected itself. All I had to do for awhile was only open the carb petcock only halfway (some nt carbs come with them, some don't), and occasionally drain my carburetor when it would flood. But once that winter ended, I had no more problems with that carb.
Forgot to mention, even had to rebuild using parts from two different nt carbs (stripped out the bolt that holds the carb petcock on and destroyed a gasket, both my fault not the carbs) and still never an issue with it.
Once I got my CNS V3 figured out, I haven't had much issue with it really, mostly hardware related. Well, until yesterday. lol
I might just buy another CNS since I know what fits it.
I might just buy another CNS since I know what fits it.
On the throttle cable...
The only thing special about a throttle cable is that it has a small ball on the end in the appropriate position to grab the barrel slide. I just made my own throttle cable from a regular bike cable, it was pretty easy....
I just took some thin solid wire (like the telephone wire in the walls of your house or solid cat5 wire) and wrapped it around the cable in the proper location and then soldered it in place with regular electronic solder. Just leave a ball of solder around the wire wrap about the size of the one on the factory throttle cable and you're good to go. You can shape the solder ball with heat or cutters, files etc. I've done this using a soldering iron and also a torch lighter and solder, never had one let go on me.... I was kinda forced into this because I was changing bars and needed custom cables.
The only thing special about a throttle cable is that it has a small ball on the end in the appropriate position to grab the barrel slide. I just made my own throttle cable from a regular bike cable, it was pretty easy....
I just took some thin solid wire (like the telephone wire in the walls of your house or solid cat5 wire) and wrapped it around the cable in the proper location and then soldered it in place with regular electronic solder. Just leave a ball of solder around the wire wrap about the size of the one on the factory throttle cable and you're good to go. You can shape the solder ball with heat or cutters, files etc. I've done this using a soldering iron and also a torch lighter and solder, never had one let go on me.... I was kinda forced into this because I was changing bars and needed custom cables.
Pretty much, yah, but the nub has to be in the proper location for each carb cause the reach from the top of the carb to the slide is different for the two carbs. I figured out the proper location for mine on my own, but I would suppose you could ask the forum members if they have an NT throttle cable handy and could pull the cable all the way to the carb end and measure the distance from the end of the cable housing to the ball on the cable.
I'm not sure if the cable has to be shorter or longer for the NT carb, if it is shorter you could just modify the cable you have already, if longer you'd have to start with a new cable or shorten the cable housing a bit.
EDIT: BTW, I used a quality cable from a bike store which had an insert lining which reduces friction between the cable and the housing. I went this route because I had a pretty sharp bend on the cable where it entered the carb (because my bike frame is very small), the sharp bend caused my throttle to drag a bit. If you don't have any drag on your throttle cable you prob don't need to worry about the cable too much, but you need to have your throttle and clutch cables with as little drag as possible otherwise your idle will change when you rotate the handle bars, the motor may even stall due to the change in drag from the clutch and change in idle due to fluctuating throttle cable. Again, my bike was extra tricky because I built on a very small 16.5" mountain bike frame which forced sharp bends in the cables.
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