Yeah that's the attitude to have. There was a small burr at the top. I could just barely feel it, now it turns fine. I'll start looking for the blunt object now.
My new clutch actuator
- Thread starter Nomad
- Start date
Everyone Please Read!!!
New products? You tell me...I thought I had a good one!
To the guys, and of course the ladies, that like to assemble and ride motorized bikes:
I do not import anything from China, I do not outsource anything. I have a small, fairly well equipped, modern machine shop right here in the USA... believe it or not. I can, for the most part, make anything from small high precision components to elaborate custom machines.
I want everyone to take advantage of this in the same way that you take advantage of any other "deal". This is your opportunity to have the parts you want to make your bikes better! Quality made at reasonable prices.
I have been involved with the development of engines, for a variety of applications, for years.
I made the clutch actuator for a good customer...I do a lot of work for the Navy...Radar and microwave mechanicals. He bought a Point Beach Schwinn and an engine kit. He tried to put it together at home, and then realized it was going to require some shop work to make it right. He brought it to me and said "make it right", and by-the-way I don't like the clutch..."It's too stiff", fix it! call me when it's rideable!
I mounted the engine and then addressed the clutch. The fix came in the form of an assembly, or kit. It wasn't just "one thing" that was wrong. I contacted the major importers of these engines and they all said that the clutches have been a source of aggravation for years.
I figured I would offer up the clutch actuator kits to everyone. So far there have been those who totally get it and thank me for providing an easy to pull clutch. Some even re-order for thier bike business. There are also those who can't make it work, even with the detailed instructions!
To me this product solves a number one complaint about these engines. If in fact this is not of any concern, (as sales would indicate), then you tell me what really matters and I will make it to order.
Best Regards,
Jim
New products? You tell me...I thought I had a good one!
To the guys, and of course the ladies, that like to assemble and ride motorized bikes:
I do not import anything from China, I do not outsource anything. I have a small, fairly well equipped, modern machine shop right here in the USA... believe it or not. I can, for the most part, make anything from small high precision components to elaborate custom machines.
I want everyone to take advantage of this in the same way that you take advantage of any other "deal". This is your opportunity to have the parts you want to make your bikes better! Quality made at reasonable prices.
I have been involved with the development of engines, for a variety of applications, for years.
I made the clutch actuator for a good customer...I do a lot of work for the Navy...Radar and microwave mechanicals. He bought a Point Beach Schwinn and an engine kit. He tried to put it together at home, and then realized it was going to require some shop work to make it right. He brought it to me and said "make it right", and by-the-way I don't like the clutch..."It's too stiff", fix it! call me when it's rideable!
I mounted the engine and then addressed the clutch. The fix came in the form of an assembly, or kit. It wasn't just "one thing" that was wrong. I contacted the major importers of these engines and they all said that the clutches have been a source of aggravation for years.
I figured I would offer up the clutch actuator kits to everyone. So far there have been those who totally get it and thank me for providing an easy to pull clutch. Some even re-order for thier bike business. There are also those who can't make it work, even with the detailed instructions!
To me this product solves a number one complaint about these engines. If in fact this is not of any concern, (as sales would indicate), then you tell me what really matters and I will make it to order.
Best Regards,
Jim
Last edited:
motoschwinn,
Don't be offended...the manual clearly states that you must have the return spring installed, and adjusted, in order for the unit to work correctly. Your post made me want to bang my head against the wall. I spent a lot of time making this product and the installation guide. I actually made this kit, I did not import it from china!
Jim
Don't be offended...the manual clearly states that you must have the return spring installed, and adjusted, in order for the unit to work correctly. Your post made me want to bang my head against the wall. I spent a lot of time making this product and the installation guide. I actually made this kit, I did not import it from china!
Jim
File,my man you hang in there like a Bulldog, so here is the #1 & #2 correct answer- Sprockets- Jim has agreed to cut me one with a "water-jet" machine, so I get serial number 001. TA DA.
Speed parts was the second answer. With Jim every thing is going to be custom made. Check out Billet Racing Engines, guess who makes those beauties. So if you can dream it up, Jim can machine it up. Plus he's a likable guy that has been bitten by the Motorized Bicycle Bug just like us, jeez give him a break! Happy Hills & Trails Walter F.
Just warming up the crowd while awaiting a full report from you on your new clutch actuator Mr. Motoschwinn! You have the floor, we're all ears, come on The good, the bad, the ugly????Happy Hills & Trails Walter F.
OK Walter you said it begins and ends with the same letter. sprockets is actully pluarl ,when your talking about 1 it would be sprocket! I guess you got me there. what size of sprocket are you going to run? I have 10 tooth on the drive (duh) and I currently run a 36t on the driven. I can go about 36-37 wot! with a tuned pipe!
Attachments
Jim will make more than one, and there are different kinds of them? I ordered 2 sight unseen (first clue). You have to admit it was kinda fun eh?
To answer your second question, I have to go back to my summer build. "The California Kid". I hated the primitive & ass-backwards way the rear sprocket was mounted, I decided to use a dual disc front hub laced up to the 20" rear wheel. Now the sprocket mounts properly, I have disc brakes on the other side and life is good.
I'm completely rebuilding the "Kid" into a "drag bike" named "Inch Pincher", so I need a big ol' sprocket, I got Andrew to make me one with 63 teeth, it's mounted to a 20" rear wheel. It should be a stump puller, first I gotta hook up rear brakes (I feel this might be important, since I don't run a kill switch)
Now that it's easy to change rear sprockets I plan to have 36,45,54 & 63 tooth sprocketS in my arsenal. I'm also trying to get Jim to make me a 9 & 11tooth output shaft sprocket this would give me more final drive ratios than a hound dog got fleas. Hey File I just looked a Andrews ad and you should too, then tell me what he sells????? Let me get off here I told Motoschwin he could talk about his new clutch actuator, after all that is the name of this thread. And how do you like yours Mr. Filestyle???Happy Hills & Trails Walter F
Just a note, received my new acuator today(only two days from ordering!) a fine piece of machine work and it does everything CE claims! Its the perfect addition to any bike!can't wait for new products from CE! Thanks Jim! Joe C.
We got my mule bike all back together today. I would say the clutch kit works well with the Shifter Kit, but there are some necessary steps:
1) You will need 40 mm bolts for the front two and a 50+ long bolt and a nut for the back hole. It may be ok to use a 40mm bolt for the rear hole as well but the threads in that hole are very weak and I think it's prudent to run the fastener through using a nut and washer. Especially because these hold the left plate.
2) As far as alignment and fit, we did need an extra spacer washer along with the standard one by the 17T sprocket to properly allow for the taller new clutch cover.
3) When we got it all together even with the clutch disengaged the chain would not spin freely. Took some head scratching.....The chain was hitting the very back of the machined new cover and we couldn't adjust it forward to clear. I used a burr tool in the Dremel to hog some aluminum out.
4) You'll probably need to cut the protruding threaded portion of the upper (left) u-bolt. Mine hit the longer clutch arm.
5) The instructions are thorough - a little clunky (Jim is not claiming to be Shakespeare), but dang it thoroughly gets the point across for the most part. It's best to do the install starting with the clutch over off so you can see what is going on. I needed to grind the shortest pin and I would say that if you need to use the screws (bolts) to pull the new cover in at all, then the pin is too long. Just touching....but not actuating the clutch is something to keep in mind. Then you can dial it in with the flower nut.
6) Don't use a heavy grease or especially tacky grease on the cam round surfaces. My special clutch gear grease is way to tacky for the cam/housing contact surfaces (tightly machined). Made it quite sticky. Amazingly the freewheel grease made the the cam turn perfectly. Tacky grease is fine on the eccentric and pin.
The feel is very smooth now. Especially with the teflon coated clutch cable. Like hot knife in butter. Pinky easy.
1) You will need 40 mm bolts for the front two and a 50+ long bolt and a nut for the back hole. It may be ok to use a 40mm bolt for the rear hole as well but the threads in that hole are very weak and I think it's prudent to run the fastener through using a nut and washer. Especially because these hold the left plate.
2) As far as alignment and fit, we did need an extra spacer washer along with the standard one by the 17T sprocket to properly allow for the taller new clutch cover.
3) When we got it all together even with the clutch disengaged the chain would not spin freely. Took some head scratching.....The chain was hitting the very back of the machined new cover and we couldn't adjust it forward to clear. I used a burr tool in the Dremel to hog some aluminum out.
4) You'll probably need to cut the protruding threaded portion of the upper (left) u-bolt. Mine hit the longer clutch arm.
5) The instructions are thorough - a little clunky (Jim is not claiming to be Shakespeare), but dang it thoroughly gets the point across for the most part. It's best to do the install starting with the clutch over off so you can see what is going on. I needed to grind the shortest pin and I would say that if you need to use the screws (bolts) to pull the new cover in at all, then the pin is too long. Just touching....but not actuating the clutch is something to keep in mind. Then you can dial it in with the flower nut.
6) Don't use a heavy grease or especially tacky grease on the cam round surfaces. My special clutch gear grease is way to tacky for the cam/housing contact surfaces (tightly machined). Made it quite sticky. Amazingly the freewheel grease made the the cam turn perfectly. Tacky grease is fine on the eccentric and pin.
The feel is very smooth now. Especially with the teflon coated clutch cable. Like hot knife in butter. Pinky easy.
Hey guys,
Just thought I'd add some feedback on Jim, his shop, the C.A. kit, and future mods that'll be manifesting out of his head and his shop.
First off, Jim is awesome. He's not far from me so I went to his shop after he invited me over with the intention of picking up one of his actuator kits. After opening the box, I was absolutely impressed with the quality. This will be the first purchase after the motor on every bike I build. Jim and I talked bikes and mods for about an hour. He's as stoked about motorized bicycles as I am. He's an excellent machinist. We were discussing the performance of the HT motors, and he showed me the flaws after we walked over to a motor he had all apart, laid out on a work table. He told me the weights on the crank shaft are the key limitation to the redline of these 2 strokes. The one he had on the table was 15,000ths out of round and way out of balance. Jim plans to make a billet replacement that will enable these motors to rev past 10,000 rpm's and make gobs more power. (read 45+mph attainable, maybe more) As soon as he has one made I'm getting one to R&D the heck out of. I'll be flogging it thoroughly.
These won't be the last things we see from Jim and his shop for our bikes.
It's about time someone has the tools, drive, and know-how to take these HT's to the next level. I highly recommend his Clutch Actuator Kit. It makes the clutch feel almost as if it is hyrdraulic like a motorcycle.
Best $28 I've spent in a long time.
Keep up the good work, Jimbo.
'BrettMavriK
Just thought I'd add some feedback on Jim, his shop, the C.A. kit, and future mods that'll be manifesting out of his head and his shop.
First off, Jim is awesome. He's not far from me so I went to his shop after he invited me over with the intention of picking up one of his actuator kits. After opening the box, I was absolutely impressed with the quality. This will be the first purchase after the motor on every bike I build. Jim and I talked bikes and mods for about an hour. He's as stoked about motorized bicycles as I am. He's an excellent machinist. We were discussing the performance of the HT motors, and he showed me the flaws after we walked over to a motor he had all apart, laid out on a work table. He told me the weights on the crank shaft are the key limitation to the redline of these 2 strokes. The one he had on the table was 15,000ths out of round and way out of balance. Jim plans to make a billet replacement that will enable these motors to rev past 10,000 rpm's and make gobs more power. (read 45+mph attainable, maybe more) As soon as he has one made I'm getting one to R&D the heck out of. I'll be flogging it thoroughly.
These won't be the last things we see from Jim and his shop for our bikes.
It's about time someone has the tools, drive, and know-how to take these HT's to the next level. I highly recommend his Clutch Actuator Kit. It makes the clutch feel almost as if it is hyrdraulic like a motorcycle.
Best $28 I've spent in a long time.
Keep up the good work, Jimbo.
'BrettMavriK
In stock configuration, the clutch is pretty close to just an "on/off" switch. He has remade the clutch actuator to give more of a standard gradual-feel to the clutch. This makes for decreased effort in actuating the clutch, and apparently you can slip the clutch for a pedal-less takeoff.
interesting, why is it better the slip the clutch with this one? doesn't he also supply new clutch plates?
No he doesn't supply new clutch plates.
It'll put more wear on the clutch if you slip it for pedal-less takeoff (unless you are using a shifter kit and are in low gear), but I think it's to get the feel of an actual mc clutch.
It'll put more wear on the clutch if you slip it for pedal-less takeoff (unless you are using a shifter kit and are in low gear), but I think it's to get the feel of an actual mc clutch.
Joe,
If you will kindly look back to my post you will realize that I said "I", MEANING ME, don't want to look like a dork". I was referring to myself...Not everyone who rides a motorized bike!
I am 6'2" 230lbs. and I don't fit a bicycle well...I look kinda Dorky when I'm peddling. I'm 47 and have not been on a bike in years. Shop guys aren't exactly reserved when it comes to giving an opinion. I've been told I look like a Dork peddling a bike!
But then again they don't have the balance I have and I can control the bike in tight places...so when they ride it I get to call them a Spaz for killing the engine or nearly running into something...It's all in fun...and yes we do have fun with our bikes and we look at ways to make them more fun to ride.
No harm No foul,
Jim
If you will kindly look back to my post you will realize that I said "I", MEANING ME, don't want to look like a dork". I was referring to myself...Not everyone who rides a motorized bike!
I am 6'2" 230lbs. and I don't fit a bicycle well...I look kinda Dorky when I'm peddling. I'm 47 and have not been on a bike in years. Shop guys aren't exactly reserved when it comes to giving an opinion. I've been told I look like a Dork peddling a bike!
But then again they don't have the balance I have and I can control the bike in tight places...so when they ride it I get to call them a Spaz for killing the engine or nearly running into something...It's all in fun...and yes we do have fun with our bikes and we look at ways to make them more fun to ride.
No harm No foul,
Jim
Couldn't agree more, Ebmvegan....
I just came in from cutting, grinding,and welding on my custom chopper frame.....huge grin on my face knowing I am building a chopper with a full suspension, gears and some serious attitude. This avenue of creation, these motorized bicycles, are unique in their mystique, they buck the system, they evade "the man", and are something way off the beaten path......
How else can you build something so cool that you can customize to no end, spend pennies relatively, and ride off to go show off, knowing that you are smart in your choice, are saving money on gas, getting more green on the environment, and doing something entirely the opposite of mainstream?
Now, Jim.......about my 10,000+rpm, 65mph billet head motor.... =-]'
'BrettMavriK
(P.S.- Jim, why don't you announce the multiple billet cover idea to get some feedback.....)
I just came in from cutting, grinding,and welding on my custom chopper frame.....huge grin on my face knowing I am building a chopper with a full suspension, gears and some serious attitude. This avenue of creation, these motorized bicycles, are unique in their mystique, they buck the system, they evade "the man", and are something way off the beaten path......
How else can you build something so cool that you can customize to no end, spend pennies relatively, and ride off to go show off, knowing that you are smart in your choice, are saving money on gas, getting more green on the environment, and doing something entirely the opposite of mainstream?
Now, Jim.......about my 10,000+rpm, 65mph billet head motor.... =-]'
'BrettMavriK
(P.S.- Jim, why don't you announce the multiple billet cover idea to get some feedback.....)