58s Schwinn Wasp Build (My Dad's old bike)

[dracothered]

Well the Huffy is stripped down to the frame and the parts are on my dad's old bike. She really looks good and I also took her for a ride after sitting for at least 20 years.

FROM THIS

TO THIS

 

[dracothered]

More pictures...

I think the chain is a little rusty...

Had to use the angle grinder to cut it apart because of the rust.

 

[Dan]

Great foundation for a build Draco.

 

[dracothered]

Great foundation for a build Draco.

Thanks...

Not sure what to do about my kickstand problem though as I can't get it to move.

It would be nice to keep it and have a choice of the center stand or the kickstand.

 

[Dan]

I think penetrating oil would work well. Might take some time and let it sit then reapply.

Your gonna think I am nutz but on stout, old world metal, I use bacon grease as a deruster and lube. It really seems to get in deep and restores amazingly well.

After you get it free and moving.

 

[dracothered]

I think penetrating oil would work well. Might take some time and let it sit then reapply.

Your gonna think I am nutz but on stout, old world metal, I use bacon grease as a deruster and lube. It really seems to get in deep and restores amazingly well.

After you get it free and moving.

Really, bacon grease...

What about Sno Bowl toilet cleaner, I have heard it gets rid of rust? Though I don't know what it will do to paint.

What brand of penetrating oil have you had the best luck with?

 

[Dan]

No kidding, I want to beat the dawg snot out of whoever started the toilet bowl cleaner rumor! I was a Merchant Seaman for 16 yrs and had a Capt. order me to use it as a rust buster. Long story but I got logged for it, lol.

Don't use it. Does nothing and makes smoke with some chemicals/paints. I don't think they are in any way safe and part of why the fight I got logged for started, lol.

My personal all around favorite penetrating oil is "3-in-1" "Marvel" is also awesome but am sure folks will join in and offer other thoughts.

Any good, name brand penetrating oil should do what you want and get it functional. Might take a day or 2. But no rush, your making functional art!

Just how I use it and do some thing like this, put some in/on so that it drips in and on. Let it sit for a good while. Then try with no great force to "wiggle" it. Then add some more and again, gently wiggle it.

Not advice, just what I do.

 

[dracothered]

I'm wondering if I should modify my rear fender some since I am running a 24" wheel in the back? What do some of you think about it? I will be remounting the front fender as soon as I can. To do this I will mount it to the forks so it moves with the forks as they move.

 

[dracothered]

Adjusted the seat some now it looks allot better.

Still trying to decide if I want to use the old handlebars even thought almost all the chrome is gone on it.

 

[pocdragon]

thats not rust! thats patina!

leave your fenders and rack! please! that bike was beautiful before you added the springer and the odd wheels!

i reccomend getting a bike-bug/ solex style all in one friction drive. it save alot of hassle of making your own wasp bike. ive gone the diy rout and i cant get over how well made the purpose built friction drives work out

usually a centrifugal clutch so no need for the motor to move around.
and the new solex i have seen have a built in headlight

also i approve of your correct lingo' i.e. wasp bike
i was beginning to think it wasnt gonna catch on!

either way great build!

cheers!

 

[dracothered]

thats not rust! thats patina!

leave your fenders and rack! please! that bike was beautiful before you added the springer and the odd wheels!

i reccomend getting a bike-bug/ solex style all in one friction drive. it save alot of hassle of making your own wasp bike. ive gone the diy rout and i cant get over how well made the purpose built friction drives work out

usually a centrifugal clutch so no need for the motor to move around.
and the new solex i have seen have a built in headlight

also i approve of your correct lingo' i.e. wasp bike
i was beginning to think it wasnt gonna catch on!

either way great build!

cheers!

The fenders are staying, just have to remount the front one and the rack is also staying. But to tell you the truth I don't want a friction drive and the springer was used to accommodate the drum brake hub front wheel.

 

[dracothered]

Well I finally cut the bottom plate of the engine mount to width and did a final fit for the template for the mount bracket on the other side.

 

[dracothered]

dang a double post

 

[dracothered]

Cut out the other bracket to support the other side of the engine, now I only need to weld it in.

Both side brackets are straight up and down.

 

[pocdragon]

wasp bike = small cc 2-stroke friction drive

sorry for the confusion in the last post i made, i thought u were making a wasp bike

 

[MotoMagz]

Thanks...

Not sure what to do about my kickstand problem though as I can't get it to move.

It would be nice to keep it and have a choice of the center stand or the kickstand.

Nice lookin build I have the same Wasp in Black and white nonmotorized.You can remove the leg of the kickstand. Then just leave the housing on the frame while using the double kickstand.If you can put 24X3 tires on therims it might take up alot of the gap between the fender and tire.Thats a pretty beefy looking engine ya got there!

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Liquid wrench or the like still may take some time in those type of enclosed kickstand parts. I was amazed when otherwise stand would go down and almost up all but pedal would hit some times, a few days later like new!

 

[dracothered]

Welded up the bracket I just made and did some adjustments to the bottom plate so the output side bracket could sit lower and let the output shaft become level.

 

[curtisfox]

I like how you usedpart of the oridganl snow blower mount. That is looking good.......Curt

 

[dracothered]

I also used parts from another snow blower to make the rest of the engine mounting brackets. I will mount it to the bike using two muffler clamps and angle iron going between with the bracket welded to the angle iron.